break cue?

[SmokyOwl]

I play 8-ball with an old cue,been fixed so many times its on the verge of collapse! I used a 22oz hammer of a cue for a while but seemed to lose the snap off my break. i tried with a 15oz on the advice of a friend and have been ripping the whites guts out since.Makes no sense.Think its all in my head

I believe the reason for this is the lighter the cue, the easier it is to swing, and therefore your swing is faster.

[SmokyOwl]

My personal opinion is a lightweight carom cue with a hard tip. Light weight means a faster swing, carom cues are stiffer than traditional cues and won't deflect energy in bending the shaft when hitting the cue ball, and hard tips last longer.

As far as tip size, it depends on how secure you feel about how well you can consistantly hit the ball dead center when breaking. The better you are at it, the smaller the tip size; but I wouldn't want to go less than 10.5mm (finding a carom cue with a smaller tip may be difficult, most are 11.5 or 12mm). The reason for this is there's less contact area of the tip contacting the ball when struck, and if your off center with a small tip you have a higher chance of miscuing. I see no real downside in using a larger tip though.

I haven't tried this theory yet, but at least to me it sounds like a solid theory.

[lulu11louise]

Hi all, I use 2 cues now, one for power breaking (look at youtube for power breaks on 8 ball pool) and my favourite 19oz 9.5mm snooker cue for British pool my power breaks cue I bought 2nd hand off gumtree/preloved for £4.00 and it was one of the best investments I've ever made I'm glad I bought it......It's magic pots at least one ball everytime
I'd highly recommend 2 cues use one for power breaks and one for regular play
Good luck Lou

[Particle Physics]

If you 2nd or 3rd ball break with a little screw, you won't need a break cue for English pool. The balls will spread everywhere.

[hatterboard]

If you 2nd or 3rd ball break with a little screw, you won't need a break cue for English pool. The balls will spread everywhere.

the cut break is very effective, however, it doesnt allow yer to generate any real power, an on slow tables or with poor balls they generally dont seperate too well.

[Particle Physics]

the cut break is very effective, however, it doesnt allow yer to generate any real power, an on slow tables or with poor balls they generally dont seperate too well.

Yep, it does work well on a speed cloth, not so well on a nap or old cloth. The cue ball is wee, so no break cue is really needed, except maybe a rack cue, to avoid glossing a tip on one's own cue.

[lukeeyw]

break cue?

why do you mean by 2nd or 3rd ball break? I've always hit the front ball towards the left pocket

[Particle Physics]

why do you mean by 2nd or 3rd ball break? I've always hit the front ball towards the left pocket

Put the white ball on the string, about an inch or so in from the cush. Hit the white ball just under centre, below the stun point, just a wee bit of screw (don't hit the white ball with stun, it will leave the table, foul break two shots carry). Aim for as much of the second or third ball as you can. If you do this properly, the white should land towards the bottom right pocket once all the balls have stopped. You don't need to hit the white as hard as you do on the 1st ball break to get the same results. Experiment with pace and the level of screw needed. A county and former England player, who is now a pro taught me this break. It's a great break on a medium to fast table. By hitting the second or third ball (right or left side of the pack) the pack divides more easily, hence why someone here has referred to it as the cut break. It's a more technical shot than loading the 1st ball and needs a bit of practice to get right; maybe an hour or so.

All type of breaks are useful and this one is quite useful if you wish to really attack and clear, because the pack will be opened right up. Obviously, if you are playing someone who can clear up, you need a ball to drop when breaking, less so if you're playing a more tactical player. A ball usually falls on this break, which gives you control of the space.

[lukeeyw]

break cue?

thanks a lot mate, I'm a county player and I've seen a fair few breaking like this but I've never gave it a go

[Particle Physics]

thanks a lot mate, I'm a county player and I've seen a fair few breaking like this but I've never gave it a go

It's worth a try, at your standard, it won't take more than a few attempts to master. If you like, you like it. If not, not much time wasted, at least you'll know not wonder. Good luck.

[lukeeyw]

break cue?

thanks a lot mate, I tried it an hour or so ago and they split really nicely!

[hatterboard]

Put the white ball on the string, about an inch or so in from the cush. Hit the white ball just under centre, below the stun point, just a wee bit of screw (don't hit the white ball with stun, it will leave the table, foul break two shots carry). Aim for as much of the second or third ball as you can. If you do this properly, the white should land towards the bottom right pocket once all the balls have stopped. You don't need to hit the white as hard as you do on the 1st ball break to get the same results. Experiment with pace and the level of screw needed. A county and former England player, who is now a pro taught me this break. It's a great break on a medium to fast table. By hitting the second or third ball (right or left side of the pack) the pack divides more easily, hence why someone here has referred to it as the cut break. It's a more technical shot than loading the 1st ball and needs a bit of practice to get right; maybe an hour or so.

All type of breaks are useful and this one is quite useful if you wish to really attack and clear, because the pack will be opened right up. Obviously, if you are playing someone who can clear up, you need a ball to drop when breaking, less so if you're playing a more tactical player. A ball usually falls on this break, which gives you control of the space.

part of that isnt right. yer can stun the white into the second ball. (ive used stunning high on the white, 1 tip up from middle) however, if yer top the white it'll jump off but not if yer stun.
also over the years ive found the break, is table specific. how yer break on a supreme winner (the cut break is really good) isnt the same response as say a riley, or a sams. still aint worked a break out for the excel.

[Particle Physics]

part of that isnt right. yer can stun the white into the second ball. (ive used stunning high on the white, 1 tip up from middle) however, if yer top the white it'll jump off but not if yer stun.
also over the years ive found the break, is table specific. how yer break on a supreme winner (the cut break is really good) isnt the same response as say a riley, or a sams. still aint worked a break out for the excel.

I found that stun made the ball leave the table on occasion, but I guess each person's stun shot can be a bit different, yours being better than mine! Not least I preferred a bit of screw because of the increased control of what the white did after impact and where it landed.

[Particle Physics]

thanks a lot mate, I tried it an hour or so ago and they split really nicely!

Good one dude. Try the stun approach that Hatter suggests too. It may yield even better results. Good luck with your game.

[lukeeyw]

break cue?

cheers thanks a lot, might try it out at staffs this Sunday!