Snooker Cue Joints

[poolqjunkie]

Is it possible it is a G-10 glass epoxy joint?
It is a glass epoxy that is pretty hard and is an conductor of electricity. It is not really that brittle and is quite strong. But it is heavier than wood. It does offer a much softer hit than metal, espcially if you have some wood on the outer rim of the joint.
It is grey greenish in colour, looks semi clear, but it also comes in black.

[jay_j]

Is it possible it is a G-10 glass epoxy joint?
It is a glass epoxy that is pretty hard and is an conductor of electricity. It is not really that brittle and is quite strong. But it is heavier than wood. It does offer a much softer hit than metal, espcially if you have some wood on the outer rim of the joint.
It is grey greenish in colour, looks semi clear, but it also comes in black.

hay airin i use this stuff at work and there is a g 11which we use as well its a fair bit lighter and stronger but alot more costly wo we only use it on hv gear

[eaoin11]

Is it possible it is a G-10 glass epoxy joint?
It is a glass epoxy that is pretty hard and is an conductor of electricity. It is not really that brittle and is quite strong. But it is heavier than wood. It does offer a much softer hit than metal, espcially if you have some wood on the outer rim of the joint.
It is grey greenish in colour, looks semi clear, but it also comes in black.

hay airin i use this stuff at work and there is a g 11which we use as well its a fair bit lighter and stronger but alot more costly wo we only use it on hv gear

I found two American cuemakers who offer these G 10 joint pins. Forgive my ignorance but would these makers be buying the material then machining the joints themselves? Or buy them ready made from someone else? Would love to try something similar on a snooker cue. Would they be difficult to fit?

[poolqjunkie]

G-11 that I have seen is a bit more brownish while the G-10 is more of a greenish semi-clear tone. If I remember correctly, G-11 is harder and tougher then G-10. Jay What do you use it for if you dont mind me asking?
You can buy the G-10 pin pre-machined which basically looks like the picture I showed. It is not difficult to fit as the bottom part is just another threaded rod that you need to just fit into a female that you drill and tab in the butt. You can buy them in black as well.
You can also machine them yourself in which case you can make them anyway you want.
G-10 is not that hard to machine as long as you have carbide bits. Personally I have found G-11 to be harder. I think another reason is because for a G-11 rod it is tough in both axial and lateral direction while G-10 is stronger in the axial direction, which means when you are spinning the rod trying to cut it on your lathe G-11 offers more resistance in the lateral direction then G-10, hence making it harder to cut.
There are several kinds of G-10 and G-11. I have tried some that were very brittle and some were more ductile.
Terry mention that there was a similiar material on the shaft female which is probably done by inserting and gluing a piece of solid G-10 rod into the female then tapping it to get the threads. This way, the threads would not wear off or get crossed or loosen up as easily. You can get a slightly tighter fit that way, plus it looks nicer, than if you just leave a wooden female. It is not that hard of a job.
One thing I am not too sure about was that Terry mentioned this joint was very strong and would not crack or break even if it was dropped on the floor. In my personal experience, G-10 pin can be quite brittle if dropped accidentally. I certainly would not try to drop the cue in the picture pin first on a hard floor.

[poolqjunkie]

Hi Airin

I have modified the locking angles to create this new product (QKlik) it now only locks on one position, and I have managed to reduce the tightening torque required so that it is a lot easier to use than my previous product (1Klik) fool proof even! It has taken 14 prototypes to get to this stage, but it is a great product. I will make a pool cue version shortly.
The new extender will follow, using the new profile, I am hoping to be ready for the China Billiards Expo Shanghai in September, but it is going to be tight!
Stan

Hi Stan,
Good luck at the show.
Hope you get lots of orders and interests.
I personally do not like to see too many threads on a joint, unlike a lot of people who think more threads would make a joint stronger, I actually think it is a weakness when there are lots of tiny gaps between the threads, and you can make a good joint without too many threads--or in your case, no threads. I am very interested to see your new joint.
A joint is the only movable part that provides structual integrity to a cue so in my opinion, it is very important.
Does that mean your join can be locked only in one direction and one direction only from now on. When the joint is tightened, is there going to be any cap? If I remember correctly your original joint can be locked in three directions, is that correct?
Will you be using the same design on your new extensions, or perhaps have you considered changing the colour of the ring to may be black or blue?
Good luck with your new join.
Thank you.

[jay_j]

G-11 that I have seen is a bit more brownish while the G-10 is more of a greenish semi-clear tone. If I remember correctly, G-11 is harder and tougher then G-10. Jay What do you use it for if you dont mind me asking?
You can buy the G-10 pin pre-machined which basically looks like the picture I showed. It is not difficult to fit as the bottom part is just another threaded rod that you need to just fit into a female that you drill and tab in the butt. You can buy them in black as well.
You can also machine them yourself in which case you can make them anyway you want.
G-10 is not that hard to machine as long as you have carbide bits. Personally I have found G-11 to be harder. I think another reason is because for a G-11 rod it is tough in both axial and lateral direction while G-10 is stronger in the axial direction, which means when you are spinning the rod trying to cut it on your lathe G-11 offers more resistance in the lateral direction then G-10, hence making it harder to cut.
There are several kinds of G-10 and G-11. I have tried some that were very brittle and some were more ductile.
Terry mention that there was a similiar material on the shaft female which is probably done by inserting and gluing a piece of solid G-10 rod into the female then tapping it to get the threads. This way, the threads would not wear off or get crossed or loosen up as easily. You can get a slightly tighter fit that way, plus it looks nicer, than if you just leave a wooden female. It is not that hard of a job.
One thing I am not too sure about was that Terry mentioned this joint was very strong and would not crack or break even if it was dropped on the floor. In my personal experience, G-10 pin can be quite brittle if dropped accidentally. I certainly would not try to drop the cue in the picture pin first on a hard floor.

there both used as insulation in high voltage gear with semi conductive coils

[stan-mullin]

Hi Stan,
Good luck at the show.
Hope you get lots of orders and interests.
I personally do not like to see too many threads on a joint, unlike a lot of people who think more threads would make a joint stronger, I actually think it is a weakness when there are lots of tiny gaps between the threads, and you can make a good joint without too many threads--or in your case, no threads. I am very interested to see your new joint.
A joint is the only movable part that provides structual integrity to a cue so in my opinion, it is very important.
Does that mean your join can be locked only in one direction and one direction only from now on. When the joint is tightened, is there going to be any cap? If I remember correctly your original joint can be locked in three directions, is that correct?
Will you be using the same design on your new extensions, or perhaps have you considered changing the colour of the ring to may be black or blue?
Good luck with your new join.
Thank you.

Airin

The new QKlik joint has no threads again or gaps, but differs from the 1Klik in that it only locks on one position. This helps for alignment purposes during the installation of the joint, and also for the player when he is putting the cue together. I have been trying to create a joint that makes the cue feel like a one piece, and I think I have managed this.

With regard to the extender, it doesn't matter what colour the ring is, I like the green, but it can be any colour.
I wanted it to be noticeable when the pros used it on TV, Mark Joyce was the first one to use it at a televised event last year, and the cameras picked out the green quite well.

What colour would you like Airin?


BTW Budding cuemakers- I now have more stock of the threaded joints I am selling on e bay so please feel free to order as many as you need!

Stan

[Terry Davidson]

poolqjunkie:

The photo of the pin you posted earlier does look a lot like Tom's pin with the exception that his was in the grayish-greenish colour and a lot darker.

Although I prefer a 1-piece cue they are just too inconvenient especially when flying and also now all the airlines are charging extra baggage charges for cue cases so I find myself in need of a decent centre-jointed cue that I can use when I travel and pack in my large suitcase. I paid 40pounds each way recently for my cue case when I went to Britain.

If someone could make up a decent centre jointed cue to my specs using this G11 or G10 material and not charge me an arm and a leg for it I would definitely do a deal. I would go for absolutely no metal, so either a black fiber ferrule or one of those dark brown composite ferrules but I would go for an extension SD butt socket I think as I had one in my 1-piece Aurora cue

Terry

[Terry Davidson]

stan:

If you are making a joint which will make a cue feel more like a 1-piece, are you able to do this with a centre-joint or just a 3/4-butt cue? Let me know if you are able to do a centre jointed cue and perhaps we can do some kind of a deal as I would like to try and get my hands on a decent 2-piece centre joint without it costing and arm and a leg

Terry

[poolqjunkie]

Airin

The new QKlik joint has no threads again or gaps, but differs from the 1Klik in that it only locks on one position. This helps for alignment purposes during the installation of the joint, and also for the player when he is putting the cue together. I have been trying to create a joint that makes the cue feel like a one piece, and I think I have managed this.

With regard to the extender, it doesn't matter what colour the ring is, I like the green, but it can be any colour.
I wanted it to be noticeable when the pros used it on TV, Mark Joyce was the first one to use it at a televised event last year, and the cameras picked out the green quite well.

What colour would you like Airin?


BTW Budding cuemakers- I now have more stock of the threaded joints I am selling on e bay so please feel free to order as many as you need!

Stan

Hi Stan,
Thank you for your detailed reply. I agree with you the colour of the ring really helps to make your extension stand out on TV.
I will respect your choice of colour. Personally, I prefer black but I can understand and respect why you may want to use a bright colour.
It is not a big deal.
May be I can check back with you in a couple months to see if you have anything ready?
Good luck with your sales of the pins.
Thank you.

[stan-mullin]

Hi Stan,
Thank you for your detailed reply. I agree with you the colour of the ring really helps to make your extension stand out on TV.
I will respect your choice of colour. Personally, I prefer black but I can understand and respect why you may want to use a bright colour.
It is not a big deal.
May be I can check back with you in a couple months to see if you have anything ready?
Good luck with your sales of the pins.
Thank you.

Hi Airin

Thanks for the good wishes!

I will keep you informed on how the new extender develops.

Stan

[stan-mullin]

stan:

If you are making a joint which will make a cue feel more like a 1-piece, are you able to do this with a centre-joint or just a 3/4-butt cue? Let me know if you are able to do a centre jointed cue and perhaps we can do some kind of a deal as I would like to try and get my hands on a decent 2-piece centre joint without it costing and arm and a leg

Terry

Terry

I have a really nice 2 piece cue here which I can put a QKlik in, but it will made of brass. I will let you know when I get chance to install it. I will then get a pro to test the feel before I offer it to you.

Stan

[jay_j]

hay terry this is some g11 sheet i couldn't find a block atm but was it more this colour?

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/...-04_153457.jpg

[Terry Davidson]

stan:

I don't mind if the joint is brass if you feel the cue has the feel of a 1-piece. I've never used a centre-joined cue as I haven't tried one I liked.

jay:

No, the colour of the pin was definitely a lot more gray than green and fairly dark. poolqjunkie sent me a website link from the US where they are selling the G10 joints to cuemakers. I guess they are fairly common in US pool cues although they only had a green which was close to the colour of your attachment and also had pure black (along with aluminum, stainless steel, brass and bronze)

Terry

[poolqjunkie]

hay terry this is some g11 sheet i couldn't find a block atm but was it more this colour?

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/...-04_153457.jpg

Hi Jay,
The g11 I came across before were more brownish, but your sheets look identical to the g10 I had. It is my understanding that they come in "rolled and mold" and "sheet," for pool cue joint application the rolled and mold version is preferred.
I have seen g10 in many different shades of green, and I have also seen them dyed to other colours.
If the joint pin Terry was referring to was really grey, it is possible that it could be another kind of phenolic. There are many phenolic materials (canvas, linen, paper), plus they can be made in different colours. Of all the phenolic materials I have seen, most of them are quite brittle (compared to brass), with glass epoxy being the strongest.