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Wish you would have published a 'Before' picture. This looks like and H&O but can't read the badge. If you took a before picture can you post that too along with the final result.
Where are you buying the 3000grit? Looked for some and can't find it anywhere, even at Canadian Tire Automotive
Terry
Terry
I know my eyes are crap, but the badge (looks like) it says Robert Osborne London, so you are close Terry!
Dean
If you want to play the pink, but you're hampered by the red, you could always try to play the brown!
i understand, but i was just observing the different effect between your cue and jay_j's.
yours is immediately shiny, jay_j's is dull by comparison and the oil fully soaked into the cue.
if the original finish is faultless, why are you adding to it?
i say this simply so you know you should go easy on what (and how much) you apply cos you may end up making the cue a little 'sticky' to play with. maybe not now, but when it gets hot or your hands get sweaty...
I've now got this on my cue. I think I didn't let the first coat of oil "cure" for long enough (it had over 24 hours before I put on the second coat). The cue looks the business, Nice aged look to it, and the butt looks gorgeous, but it is tacky when held in a position or on the pause before the shot. (I've posted a thread asking for help to resolve this sticky issue). If the cue is sold by someone like TW and he says you won't need to ever oil it, I think it very wise to follow this advise, and not oil it, just in case!
If you want to play the pink, but you're hampered by the red, you could always try to play the brown!
Mine TW just fine. After 2 month of extencive use, wiping of chalk shaft became dryish so it needed that little extra care as any other wood really( flooring , furniture Etc. ) Also I've over 15 years experience working with exotic woods , oils, warnishes etc so in my instance I knew exactly what a was doing with no risk making shaft sticky.
I am working on refinishing a cue (made by another cue maker) for a customers. Here are some pictures.
The cue was pretty messed up when it came into the shop.
The first picture shows the cue after I have polished it down to 3000 grits, wet and dry, and sealed.
The second picture here shows the cue after a few coats of Aurora cue oil has been applied (not completely dried).
This was taken after the Aurora oil finish is dried and the cue has been buffed by a dry cloth.
I will apply another coat today.
I can post more pictures as I work on the cue to show you guys the progress.
Thank you.
That is my Robert Osborne cue. It's a old green plate.
It was a very nice cue when i brought it. I want put it into my collections.
However, it's too long for me. So i got someone from my local club to help me cut it from 58inch to 57inch and re taper the shaft.
I thought it's a easy job and Richard is a busy man so i didn't ask him to do it.
After few days i got the cue returned.
I was shocked when i saw the cue.
The guy return the cue to me with a half white half yellow shaft.
He removed the finish on the top half shaft and the black color in the grains is gone too. he didn't put it back.
He didn't touch the lower shaft and the splice joint part. But he also removed the finish on the lower butt to remove some dents on the butt and he also mess the badge up.
I paid 80 dollars then i got a work like this. I am even doing better cue finishing job than him.
You ask any of a cue makers in here, will he return a cue like this to his customers?
It is the s**ttest work i have ever seen. The job he done should inter cue finishing hall of the shame.
Then i called Richard to refinish the cue for me. I haven't got it back yet. But from the pictures it looks good again.
I also asked Robert to sell me a green badge to put on the cue. Surprisingly he offer to gave me one for free.
I will post some picture once i got the cue back.
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