Cue oil

[hottt123]

Hi guys, any recommendations of cue oils? Thanks

[DeanH]

linseed (raw or boiled)
danish
Tung

They all have their pros/cons:
Raw Linseed - takes days to fully dry
Boiled Linseed - dries quicker but some do not like the result.
Danish/Tung - these are thicker than linseed and can be more difficult to control application

There are others and some people make up combination of oils/finishes to their own needs; but with all take care with applying, use as little as possible, then wipe off the excess and allow to dry before touching up with more oil or rubbing down with very fine sandpaper and the like. The more you put on, the more you have to take off when it will be difficult to do so.
Patience and care and more patience until you get the experience of doing oiling

I use raw linseed only because I bought 1/2 litre years and years ago and still have lots left
I plan the treatment to allow lots of time to allow drying after application and excess-wipe-off.

As with nearly everything to do with snooker, it comes down to personal preference.

[fkhan]

I use MW Q-gel. Dries quicker too.

[hottt123]

Thanks. What about Parris cue oil? Is it the same thing as linseed oil? I saw most of the woodworker use boiled linseed oil and said raw take long time to dry.

[DeanH]

Then buy some Boiled Linseed then.
Robert Osborne uses it.
Just buy generic, no need for any branded stuff,.

Just remember you don't need a lot so buy the smallest bottle you can, then if you don't like it you have not lost much

With my raw linseed, a long time is relative
It is dry to touch in a few hours, dry enough to play the next day, but takes about a week to fully cure.
As I say, I plan my cue maintenance and allow for this time range
But I am scrooge and wont buy any other oil till I use up what I have, which is about 3/4 of a 0.5lt bottle!

[hottt123]

https://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/boiled-linseed-oil
Thanks for the advice. Probably go for this one. Just curious is there any difference between normal linseed oil and something that made from cue makers?

[DeanH]

https://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/boiled-linseed-oil
Thanks for the advice. Probably go for this one. Just curious is there any difference between normal linseed oil and something that made from cue makers?

Maybe they add a little something - essence of lavender or such
Could be they add a wax or combine two oils - and then the lavender
What they do is probably their own secret blend never to be told

[DeanH]

Now the thing to remember is to NOT add too much.
Literally take the cap off, place your folded cloth (lint free) or paper kitchen towel over the hole and tip the bottle, maybe twice, then that is it, apply to your cue, you will be surprised as to how far such a small amount will go.
stand in a corner, let soak for a few minutes, check for any areas that appear to be dry, were the oil has soaked in more, retouch these areas, allow to dry again, and repeat
Once you are happy with coverage, with clean cloth/paper towel wipe the whole cue again to remove any excess. and then allow to dry, for longer.

Buff with dry cloth/paper towel every so often.

And then remember to wipe your cue before playing and - more importantly - wipe it down after play before putting into the case - to remove chalk dust sweat, etc.

Oiling does not need to be done that often, on average maybe once a year (an MOT )

[theplough]

I`m trying Lynch`s Cue Balm, various essences and beeswax. It`s a lot harder work than the linseed or lemon oil I use for the "Mot". The Lynch`s goes on after cleaning with lemon oil, leaving till dry and applying and ensuring even light coverage from tip end downwards, gets into any tiny grain blemishes/gaps, leave for 10-20 mins and buff. Buff is a very short word, buffing is not a slow process, takes a while but nice finish. I use a nice Burroughs & Watts Burwat Champion from the mid to late fifties, maybe 1955-56 so it deserves the tlc........not that I`ve ever made more than 45 so maybe I should try a broom handle and an old piece of boot leather on the end and see how that goes.

[Shockerz]

If using linseed oil remember that the rags can spontaneously combust!!

[DeanH]

If using linseed oil remember that the rags can spontaneously combust!!

LOL
only if you use lots of rags/cloths for lots of cues and bulk them together in the bin.. if just one cue and a few sheets it probably won't happen as the odd sheet or two won't hit critical mass

[Shockerz]

LOL
only if you use lots of rags/cloths for lots of cues and bulk them together in the bin.. if just one cue and a few sheets it probably won't happen as the odd sheet or two won't hit critical mass

Hi Dean

One rag in an internal bin will just use the other tissues etc. I take your point on lots of rags but when I looked deeply there were many cases of combustion in the states when thrown in the inside trash. The fire brigade did sone tests to prove its a but if a nightmare.

Obviously I use a lot but after reading up I now wet and bag them straight off and nothing is left internally.

Obviously it's unlikely and generally clusters of rags but I thought I'd mention it as there's no downside.😀

[DeanH]

Hi Dean

One rag in an internal bin will just use the other tissues etc. I take your point on lots of rags but when I looked deeply there were many cases of combustion in the states when thrown in the inside trash. The fire brigade did sone tests to prove its a but if a nightmare.

Obviously I use a lot but after reading up I now wet and bag them straight off and nothing is left internally.

Obviously it's unlikely and generally clusters of rags but I thought I'd mention it as there's no downside.😀

Got to agree... Never leave anything internally!!!!

[vmax]

Maybe they add a little something - essence of lavender or such
Could be they add a wax or combine two oils - and then the lavender
What they do is probably their own secret blend never to be told

They probably just pour some basic linseed into a bottle with their label on it. Nothing special abvout something labelled 'cue oil'. I've just bought a can of Colron jacobean oak danish oil, gives the shaft a lovely antique colour.

[DeanH]

They probably just pour some basic linseed into a bottle with their label on it. Nothing special abvout something labelled 'cue oil'. I've just bought a can of Colron jacobean oak danish oil, gives the shaft a lovely antique colour.

I recall chatting with Dan Shelton about this and he said he had played around with mixing oils and waxes and experimenting - never got the final answer though