when i dome my tip i tend to have it as a D lay flat on its back but to more of a point on it.... seem to get more cueball contact with the tip when playing top and bottom on the ball and not as much traces of unwanted side
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The tip thread!!:D
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Well, the way I see it, I think its safe to say that the best shape for the tip (assuming you prefer a dome as opposed to a flat tip ) is the same curvature as the cue ball. So I made some calculations, and came up with this method:
1. Measure the height of the tip (preferably before sticking it on the cue)
2. Make a slight pencil line at the prescribed height (depends on the tip size- this is where the calculation comes in. Will list the tip size and prescribed height last)
3. Stick the tip on, and then dome the tip so that it forms a semicircle with the extreme top of the tip, and the line drawn. This unfortunately will have to be done according to your eye, as I haven't thought of another way to do it.
So, as to the prescribed heights, since the basic snooker cue tip sizes range from 9-10mm, I'm listing for those 3 sizes. If anyone is interested, can post up the calculation method for you to do yourself. Please note that the measurement should be from the TOP of the tip to the line!
9mm- 0.39mm
9.5mm- 0.43mm
10mm- 0.48mm.
I hope this makes sense! I thought of this because extreme shaping can be too stiff! But a word of warning- this method should be used on tips that have been bedded or tips that won't change their shape too much when playing. I'd advice a slight allowence be left, for reduction in tip height when shaping and playing.
Thats if you're REALLY interested in getting the best shape for contact with the cue ball, so that your mind will be at ease!:-D
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Originally Posted by Dragonsye View PostWell, the way I see it, I think its safe to say that the best shape for the tip (assuming you prefer a dome as opposed to a flat tip ) is the same curvature as the cue ball. So I made some calculations, and came up with this method:
1. Measure the height of the tip (preferably before sticking it on the cue)
2. Make a slight pencil line at the prescribed height (depends on the tip size- this is where the calculation comes in. Will list the tip size and prescribed height last)
3. Stick the tip on, and then dome the tip so that it forms a semicircle with the extreme top of the tip, and the line drawn. This unfortunately will have to be done according to your eye, as I haven't thought of another way to do it.
So, as to the prescribed heights, since the basic snooker cue tip sizes range from 9-10mm, I'm listing for those 3 sizes. If anyone is interested, can post up the calculation method for you to do yourself. Please note that the measurement should be from the TOP of the tip to the line!
9mm- 0.39mm
9.5mm- 0.43mm
10mm- 0.48mm.
I hope this makes sense! I thought of this because extreme shaping can be too stiff! But a word of warning- this method should be used on tips that have been bedded or tips that won't change their shape too much when playing. I'd advice a slight allowence be left, for reduction in tip height when shaping and playing.
Thats if you're REALLY interested in getting the best shape for contact with the cue ball, so that your mind will be at ease!:-D
I find a D shape works well for me.Forget it, Donny, you're out of your element
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Oh blimey, just measured it and realized that that is almost straight! So I've just fallen into the category of impractical academic!!
Ok, let me revise- the best contact for a small tip is, theoretically, a ever so slight dome, which is almost flat! Will upload the calculation I did, to reiterate!:-D I'm definitely going to try a flatter tip from now on! Maybe I'll dome it closer to 1mm, just to allow for settling!
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Seems to me this calc may apply to center ball striking, but when screwing etc. the contact edge of a very flat tip, regardless of diameter, will be a very small surface area, which seems to go against your general principle, which I think is an attempt to maximize surface area contact between cue tip and ball.
Let's not forget that as we apply more spin, the cue remains fairly parallel to the table, but the angle between the tip and the point of contact on the cue ball changes dramatically. Not sure if your approach is factoring this in.
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Originally Posted by Dragonsye View PostYes,your right.. It is for center ball striking. I realized that a little after I posted my last reply!! Stil lworking on that calculation. Does not seem to be too far off though. Will post results!
on plain ball striking you get more compression of the tip against the cue ball, but on screw or follow through the surface area of the tip against the ball is increased due to the dome effect on the tip thus helping your control...
basic principles of cue maintanance and snooker theory
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Ok, here's one! The Talisman site said that a main reason for de-laminating is that the tip was too tall. The general height should apparently be 1/3rd that of the width of the ferrule. Apparently too much height (I.e.- when the tip is too thick) creates too much stress on the bond between layers when playing with side etc.. Which is the best way to reduce so much of the thickness? Is cutting it a good idea?? Any thoughts/comments??
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Originally Posted by Terry Davidson View PostIf you could get one of those super fast cameras and take a shot of someone using a soft tip you would see that the tip actually hits the cueball TWICE since the tip must compact as the cue comes through.
I mean there might be a single microsecond between the 2 but it has to be true if you think about it. I don't know if this is the reason why hard tips are more poplar or not but I prefer using a hard tip and have recently found the hard Omin tips to be the hardest out there.
I think most professionals prefer a hard tip and even a lot of them will get used tips to put on their cues, ones that are already 'broken in' or in other words compacted a bit.
Terry
http://www.handmadecues.com/extras/23-laminatedtips.htm
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Okay had a good read of this thread and some helpfull info at the moment so if anyone could answer my question thanks. I recently bought a new cue not sure what kind of tip but it is hard and i seem to be misscueing alot, so would you guys recommend i go with a softer tip ? Ive also noticed i dont get much spin top or bottom im putting it down to the tip as i had a shot of a friends cue a few days ago its slightly cheaper but the tip is softer and i got alot better balll control
Im not amazing at snooker for the moment still progressing, so any recommended tips would be great as i will probably order online tonight.
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Its not about how hard or soft the tip is more the quality of the tip. In time you will try a number of tips and may decide you prefer a softer tip/harder tip. I would just pick a tip and try it and if you don't like it try another until you find one you like. Elkmasters are a good cheap place to start. Read ADRs tip guide.
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...R147+tip+guidesigpic A Truly Beakerific Long Pot Sir!
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Originally Posted by Dragonsye View PostOk, here's one! The Talisman site said that a main reason for de-laminating is that the tip was too tall. The general height should apparently be 1/3rd that of the width of the ferrule. Apparently too much height (I.e.- when the tip is too thick) creates too much stress on the bond between layers when playing with side etc.. Which is the best way to reduce so much of the thickness? Is cutting it a good idea?? Any thoughts/comments??
And just to build on this- maybe slicing will have the added benefit of giving a flat surface to work with, and (if done carefully) one may be able to use the extra part separately as another tip, rather than throw it?? Is there a method of doing this, or is there an alternative remedy?? I've heard that it's not good to sand a tip flat on top, as it pulls the fibers apart??Last edited by Dragonsye; 12 January 2010, 03:53 AM.
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Originally Posted by Disco_Dave88 View PostI recently bought a new cue not sure what kind of tip but it is hard and i seem to be misscueing alot, so would you guys recommend i go with a softer tip ? l
I thought there was something wrong with the balls, but I bought some better balls today and the same thing is happening. So I'm pretty sure it's not a problem with the balls.
I have already shaped the tip. But maybe I need to give more car in shaping it?
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