Which glue to use for Re Tipping

[Acrowot]

You could always try Zap Slow super glue, but is more expensive than most glues. I build model radio control planes with it and it will stand low temperatures, not like the glue that DandyA mentions. I have often flown my planes when the wings have iced up. But Zap is not a gel glue. The Slow Zap will give time to place the tips where you want them, but is not really slow.
If you want to try this Zap, will have to go to a shop that sells model plane gear.
You can keep this glue in the fridge and it will stay ok for at least a year, maybe even longer.
:snooker:

[BoBnoGG!n]

thanks guys!

curious, is this the stuff your talkin about? http://cgi.ebay.com/ZAP-High-Viscosi...item5d283adf57

[hotpot]

If you want to try something similar to superglue that does,nt set as quick , you can try vitalbond which is available in four versions , superfast , thin , medium , and thick and sets in 45 seconds , and gorilla glu which sets in 30-60 seconds .

[inevermissblue]

Which glue?

I use epoxy resin. I don't like using superglue because since using epoxy i hav never ever had a tip come off on me. Also there is no danger of the rest of the glue going off in the tube while stored. You may be pleased to know that the cheap stuff works just as well as Araldite(i've never used Araldite actually). The trick is to mix the 2 parts of the epoxy (resin and hardener 50/50) and let it stand for about 15-20 minutes mixing occasionally as this is the critical bonding time! If used prematurely it does'nt set fully. I tend to wait until it starts to go slightly white and stringy as this is the perfect time to fit the tip. Then when the tip is centred i lightly tap it as its setting checking that its still centred, then leave it for at least an hour. Once it has set its stronger than the cue itself! amazing stuff!!! The stuff i use is about £2 a go, and lasts forever!

[Terry Davidson]

I've had the same experience with the Loctite gel superglue where the tube was already hardened and heat didn't help. I also had the problem in that I would only have to re-tip every 3 months or so and once it was opened, even with tightening the cap as much as I could, the glue still hardened in the container.

I don't know if this is an international seller or not but I now use LePage's #12 epoxy cement which is meant for wood, leather and metal and it sets in 20 minutes to where you can shape the tip and use it (although I let it sit for an hour or 2 just to be sure).

Yes, it's a little messier than superglue in that you have to squeeze out a drop from each tube and mix it with a toothpick, but I've NEVER had a tip come off since I started using this 3 years ago PLUS I still have the same 2 tubes.

If you don't have the LePages brand at your local DIY then try and find an epoxy cement good for leather (porous material), wood and metal and hopefully quick setting. Something you have to mix.

Believe me, you'll be much happier.

(In saying all of that though, I still carry around a fresh little tube of leather, wood and metal superglue just in case I lose a tip at a crucial time)

Terry

[BoBnoGG!n]

hmmmm i think im going to stick with loctite. since its cheap (2 pounds) a small tube (that doesnt seem to go hard) and it worked fine. i think the guys who worked at the snooker hall i was last at, assumed it was their own tube of superglue and took it, cause it was sitting with my stuff and then it disapeared. this means ill have to re tip my 2 friends cues, since i gave the tweeten tip cement a go on that. -_- hope their tip doesnt come flying off in game.. theyre gonna blame my tipping skills and ill never hear the end of it!

[Acrowot]

Yes Bob, that is the Zap I was talking about. It will last you for very long time, but not if you leave it out in the heat. Just put it in the fridge. I use fast, medium and slow Zap, depending on what job am doing.
As one of the others mentions, I do not really like expoxy for tips, but do use it on some parts of my model planes, but not the Araldite, as I think it is crap. That also comes from model plane shops and Zap also makes that, which a friend swears by, but I have used the same epoxy for over 20 years on my planes, just for certain parts of the plane.
:snooker:

[ADR147]

Strange, i've never heard of that, especially if they're from different shops.

Have you tried leaving it next to a radiator to see if it softens ?

its the exact opposite i think, if you put it in the fridge it will thin. heat hardens it.

[whufcarl]

i use loktite, the gel version.
the gel aids the absorbtion of impact and its easy to apply and even out
touch wood, i have never had my tip fall off
but, i do bed it in properly etc unlike most idiots down the snooker hall i go to!

[The Doctor]

I recently started using an impact resistant cayanoacrylate(superglue)
It has a shelf life of up to 7 YEARS and this tuff is great.
You can find it along with some other types at STARLOCK UK.
I Have had no problem with anyof their glues.
I would agree that evo-stick impact is the best but only if you have the time and patience to use it properly, otherwise this stuff is the best.
http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/StarLo...-Adhesives-FMK

[hotpot]

I recently started using an impact resistant cayanoacrylate(superglue)
It has a shelf life of up to 7 YEARS and this tuff is great.
You can find it along with some other types at STARLOCK UK.
I Have had no problem with anyof their glues.
I would agree that evo-stick impact is the best but only if you have the time and patience to use it properly, otherwise this stuff is the best.
http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/StarLo...-Adhesives-FMK

Thats basically the same stuff as vitalbond , only difference longer setting times are available in vitalbond , otherwise same stuff .

[Dan27]

its the exact opposite i think, if you put it in the fridge it will thin. heat hardens it.

I never knew that, I suppose it kind of makes sense.

It's not something i've ever had to do though, my glue always seems to keep well.

[thelongbomber]

Have heard situations where glue crystallizes from repeated impact and "hardens" the hit of your cue. So I went looking for something with some "give" and found it yesterday at the local shop.

Found this: http://www.gorillatough.com/glues/superglue/index.aspx

Have to say it's awesome! I just put a small drop on the cue, placed the Talisman soft tip on and only had about 1 second of moving time to get the tip centered. Although the glue was super fast acting, it held for the cutting and shaping I did less than 10 minutes later!!!

Glue also wasn't so hard it couldn't be taken off the ferrule (brass).

[sharkster63]

Good Day,

I use SuperGlue Gel, must be the purple coloured stuff. If you have a tip that is an exact fit for your ferrule, a little trick I use is I wrap a piece of paper around the ferrule and scotch tape, the paper must only pas the ferrule half the thickness of the tip, this enables the use of a plastic band to apply pressure without the tip moving. I use rubber bands that you can buy at dollars store, used for tailoring, waist band on pants. I double it up, stretch down and wrap it over itself several times, it does not move and keeps a constant pressure, does not mark the cue.
Cheers,
Rolly C. sends

[thelongbomber]

Good Day,

I use SuperGlue Gel, must be the purple coloured stuff. If you have a tip that is an exact fit for your ferrule, a little trick I use is I wrap a piece of paper around the ferrule and scotch tape, the paper must only pas the ferrule half the thickness of the tip, this enables the use of a plastic band to apply pressure without the tip moving. I use rubber bands that you can buy at dollars store, used for tailoring, waist band on pants. I double it up, stretch down and wrap it over itself several times, it does not move and keeps a constant pressure, does not mark the cue.
Cheers,
Rolly C. sends

Great idea about making a little cup from the scotch tape around the ferrule! If you have an exact tip, you can just drop it in and it will auto center.