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Would really need to know which type of level it is. Some are self leveling some not, some are laser. And then there's an Engineers Machinist Level which is different once again. Any pics of it?
damn i forgot the name ****tt i think its a machineist 1 maybe starting with a p or a t and how do u tell if its a self leveller or the other?
if it is a machine level like the old Rabone and chesterman model , then you will see one end of the vial tube is located between two nuts , one may have a hole in the side of the nut ( lower one ) , the top nut for locking down , you have to find a flat surface , mark a square box around the level on the flat surface , look at the bubble , now turn it around 180% , look at the bubble , when it is giving the same reading both ways ( by adjusting the two nuts ) lock down the top nut , this may put it out again slightly , try again overcompensating for the lock down of top nut , until it gives 100% level by bubble in both measurements taken in 180% directions within the box drawn on the surface .
if it is a GG tube , one with red markings with about 4 markings each side , these are very acurate , too acurate to use to level a table as you will be chasing the bubble around the table , until you get back to the starting position , only to find it is still showing out . the gradiants are very acurate to within the thickness of a £5 note .
The best levels just have two lines each side or one each side of the bubble .
12 inch levels are better to use than 8 inch ones ,the iron face is much thicker .
most engineers levels are like this , another make is the starret model from USA , same as the Rabone & Chesterman in design .
you can buy them s/h on ebay for around £20 . just make sure it is not a GG tube .
Having a level , will not meen you get the table level , for a start , there are positions of the frame that you must never jack up , frame could be warped , also slates may be bowed ( dished ) you also have to know where to start leveling a frame from , which leg to leave on the floor etc .
Last edited by Geoff Large; 23 May 2010, 09:57 PM.
well I could but , I would make a few fitters angry as it would do them out of work and myself too , without giving too much away , all I will say is work from the high point of the frame and bring rest upto that level , their are some frames you cannot jack up at the end if they are morticed jointed .
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