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start with 300+ go to 400 then onto 800 to seal in the fibers of the tip. i sit on a chair and turn the cue on my thigh (acting like a lathe) and holding a tiny piece in my fingertips wrapped around the cue tip. never hold tight tho, let the sandpaper and motion do the work. the ferrule is taped up so shaft and ferrule r completely protected. with shaping the top tho, i just use a piece of sand paper 3cm by 12cm that way i can bend it inside my palm lengthways to get the perfect curved shape, n i sand downwards slowly turning the cue with the hand holding it. also i keep the tape on the ferrule and shaft for now, cause wat a lot of people dont realise wen they sand down a tip is they end up leaving tiny scratchmarks on the ferrule n shaft if they do it fast. i know cause wen i retip people's cues, and i see them shape it themselves, they sand downwards but at the last second wen the sandpaper runs out they drag the edge of the sandpaper down the side of the tip for a split second. leaving tiny marks downwards
i generally use a 240 for shaping tip, then 400 for cleaning it up (shape wise) and roughing it up to hold more chalk. sometimes wen i need to take it a lot down, like 1mm or 2, i use 140 sandpaper. wet/dry stuff thats black. works good for me =]
i generally use a 240 for shaping tip, then 400 for cleaning it up (shape wise) and roughing it up to hold more chalk. sometimes wen i need to take it a lot down, like 1mm or 2, i use 140 sandpaper. wet/dry stuff thats black. works good for me =]
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