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Which cue oil is smoother

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  • #16
    Originally Posted by Samcheung001 View Post
    Thanks for all the sensible advices. Just want to know what could I do now to get rid of my current issues.

    Should I apply cue oil again with the proper steps ?
    I suppose it depends on what you did the 1st time . Can you describe the steps you

    went through to get where you are just now ( how you applied it, how much , how long you waited to remove etc etc ) ?

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    • #17
      Pledge works a treat!!
      Steve Davis Technical Articles = https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...ilebasic?pli=1

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      • #18
        Originally Posted by billabong View Post
        I suppose it depends on what you did the 1st time . Can you describe the steps you

        went through to get where you are just now ( how you applied it, how much , how long you waited to remove etc etc ) ?

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        I applied much oil and left overnight. Then I found it very sticky and hard to buff. I buff rigorously and then it appeared 'quick' smooth after that but not as smooth as what I expect.

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        • #19
          Originally Posted by Samcheung001 View Post
          I applied much oil and left overnight. Then I found it very sticky and hard to buff. I buff rigorously and then it appeared 'quick' smooth after that but not as smooth as what I expect.
          Yep, the knack is to apply a very light/thin coat, let dry, buff, and reapply only if required.
          Up the TSF! :snooker:

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          • #20
            Originally Posted by Samcheung001 View Post
            Thanks but I have some reservation to use alcohol as not sure if it would do any harm to the shaft. I have tried rub it with damp cloth and then a clean dry cloth but have not yet played with it after that and therefore not sure if it would become tacky again after several frames.
            Does anyone have any other suggestion to remove the applied oil especially our highly respected cue father ?

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            • #21
              Originally Posted by Samcheung001 View Post
              Does anyone have any other suggestion to remove the applied oil especially our highly respected cue father ?
              Alcohol would be the fastest way. If not, you'll have to really keep buffing. Buffing the excess oil would really take a long time if you applied too much from the start. I also applied too much for a start and I buff the cue everyday for nearly 1 month and its still sticky so i just applied alcohol to make it raw and apply the cue oil again.

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              • #22
                Originally Posted by Samcheung001 View Post
                Does anyone have any other suggestion to remove the applied oil especially our highly respected cue father ?
                Yellow duster with slightly damp patch of white spirit,damp not wet does a good job.

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                • #23
                  Originally Posted by Samcheung001 View Post
                  Does anyone have any other suggestion to remove the applied oil especially our highly respected cue father ?
                  this is fine:

                  Originally Posted by bigandyg View Post
                  Yellow duster with slightly damp patch of white spirit,damp not wet does a good job.
                  white spirit/paint thinners will soften the oil and allow you to buff it off with a clean cloth easier.

                  failing that, wire wool it off and start again using thin coats and not leaving the excess on to dry.

                  that's the best thing about oil finishing. it is easy to maintain/repair etc..
                  The Cuefather.

                  info@handmadecues.com

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                  • #24
                    Originally Posted by MikeWooldridge View Post
                    this is fine:



                    white spirit/paint thinners will soften the oil and allow you to buff it off with a clean cloth easier.

                    failing that, wire wool it off and start again using thin coats and not leaving the excess on to dry.

                    that's the best thing about oil finishing. it is easy to maintain/repair etc..
                    A friend put a load of shoe polish on his cue; he was surprised it was a bit shiny and squeeky after he'd buffed it up! I suggested he use a solvent like white spirit or meths, but he went the soap and water way, as advised by a senior player. Not something I would have risked.

                    What oil are folk using? I put a dab of sunflower oil on a cloth and gently rubbed my cue down. It's quite a light oil compared to linseed, so I thought it might be smoother afterwards.
                    Last edited by Particle Physics; 13 July 2012, 05:54 PM.
                    Harder than you think is a beautiful thing.

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                    • #25
                      Oil of any kind will make the cue less silky in feel. It doesn't matter what oil it is. Some players swear by simply using a damp cloth every few frames. What makes a cue sticky is dirt, chalk and dust, and some sweat. The thing in sweat that makes things sticky is human oil! Oil may lubricate metal parts well, but wood isn't metal. The only problem with using just a damp cloth is that the cue will become a little dry after a time, and as someone else said on another thread, the black filler can leave the grain. But if you want the ultimate silk feel, the damp cloth is the only way. An occasional oil, say one a month does seem in order, to condition the wood.

                      What are the pros using to clean their cues in the middle of a match, when on tv? You guessed it; a damp cloth.
                      Harder than you think is a beautiful thing.

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                      • #26
                        I read it somewhere that you can just oil your cue once 1 month or once every 3 months depending on yourself. If after oiling and its still not as smooth as you want it to be, there are so many products out there to make the shaft smooth.

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                        • #27
                          Originally Posted by x3dnd3x View Post
                          I read it somewhere that you can just oil your cue once 1 month or once every 3 months depending on yourself. If after oiling and its still not as smooth as you want it to be, there are so many products out there to make the shaft smooth.
                          I would say that this is too much oiling. Even if you used the cue 24x7 the cue would not need that much oiling.
                          If it did I would suggest that the wood has not been sealed properly and take it to the doctors to be fixed.
                          For an average club player, depending on the cue maker, depending in the cue original finish, depending on the cue condition (i.e. has someone hacked at it with rough sandpaper/wirewool), depending on the users skin condition (sweaty/dirty/dry/oily):
                          Maybe, and a big maybe, the cue may need a light oiling once a year.
                          In between times, a gentle wipe with a slightly damp cloth and immediately buffed with a dry cloth. This removes chalk/sweat/dirt from the surface of the finish, buff to get a nice smooth feel.
                          80% of the time when a player complains that the cue is sticky/squeeky/etc. it is usually the players hands are not clean, take a break go and wash and dry your hands.
                          But if you must oil the cue, then as has been said many times, apply the oil (raw linseed is my preference - but what ever it is) in a light coat, hardly any oil at all, immmediately wipe if with a dry piece of cloth/papertowel to remove all excess, leave to dry (usually overnight is enough, then buff with dry cloth/papertowel.
                          Yes, there are other applications for getting a cue feeling smooth, cue-silk, and others. I have not tried them myself but some love them, others hate them. Your choice.
                          Up the TSF! :snooker:

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