How heavy is it?
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Wooden Case, How Much Would It Cost?
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Originally Posted by mikeadyla View PostHow heavy is it?
. . . and still straight whenI view rifle style. Only a 3/4 though so maybe more rigid than a 1 piece ?
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Originally Posted by billabong View PostOnly got bathroom scales, so just approx 5lbs.
. . . and still straight whenI view rifle style. Only a 3/4 though so maybe more rigid than a 1 piece ?
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Originally Posted by mikeadyla View PostThanks.. Would you say then that it's much much heavier than a normal case or about the same?
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Hello to everyone. I am Roger Taft of RTcases lacated in the states.I want to try and answer as many of the questions that are on alot of your minds about custom made wooden snooker case. I've been making standard and snooker cue cases for approximately 6 years now and have had but one complaint and that was in the first year i was in business and that is the truth ,a minor complaint which was all worked out.With that said I'll go on. This being a snooker site i'll stick with that,I do make the 3/4 style cases as well as your one piece cases.The way i see it no case is ever the same , no one has the same likings or dislikings so hense the word custom.As Billabong has said i did make his case and we worked out all his details .I do this with most everyone,we go over wood choices,lining styles and colors,hardware and handle choices as well.Inlays ,if you want something special are looked over and my thoughts are interjected on all detalings.Not because i think i'm so smart ,thats not it,i just have been doing this for a while and more times then not can see if something is or isn't going to work.The weights on these case vary,depending on wood,and that is one item that i try to stress to customers that some woods just are not meant for this project,I would say that cases run any where from 4 to 6 pounds empty.I always try to keep things as light as i can.The question of warpage has been brought up, There is always the chance-whether the material is wood ,aluminum,or leather for what we call moving around. I personally will not say that this will never happen,but i take as many steps as i can to see to it that i sell a straight product. Many things have a hand in warping -moisture, cold heat.If anyone has any more questions or wishes to talk about a case just contact me. P M or email rhtandcompany@gmail.com also my web site is rhtcustomwood.com Thank you all.
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Originally Posted by RTcases View PostHello to everyone. I am Roger Taft of RTcases lacated in the states.I want to try and answer as many of the questions that are on alot of your minds about custom made wooden snooker case. I've been making standard and snooker cue cases for approximately 6 years now and have had but one complaint and that was in the first year i was in business and that is the truth ,a minor complaint which was all worked out.With that said I'll go on. This being a snooker site i'll stick with that,I do make the 3/4 style cases as well as your one piece cases.The way i see it no case is ever the same , no one has the same likings or dislikings so hense the word custom.As Billabong has said i did make his case and we worked out all his details .I do this with most everyone,we go over wood choices,lining styles and colors,hardware and handle choices as well.Inlays ,if you want something special are looked over and my thoughts are interjected on all detalings.Not because i think i'm so smart ,thats not it,i just have been doing this for a while and more times then not can see if something is or isn't going to work.The weights on these case vary,depending on wood,and that is one item that i try to stress to customers that some woods just are not meant for this project,I would say that cases run any where from 4 to 6 pounds empty.I always try to keep things as light as i can.The question of warpage has been brought up, There is always the chance-whether the material is wood ,aluminum,or leather for what we call moving around. I personally will not say that this will never happen,but i take as many steps as i can to see to it that i sell a straight product. Many things have a hand in warping -moisture, cold heat.If anyone has any more questions or wishes to talk about a case just contact me. P M or email rhtandcompany@gmail.com also my web site is rhtcustomwood.com Thank you all.John Lim
Targets to beat: -line up 63, 78 (Nov 2012)- -practice match 67 (Nov 2012)- -competition 33 (Oct 2011)-
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RTcases - welcome to TSF
I have been looking at your webiste for a long time, loving the craftsmanship and designs.
Can I ask about internal linings, I have seen the fuzzy-fluff but what else do you do? Suede? Something else?
cheers
ps. you cannot send or receive PMs until you have over 10 posts.Up the TSF! :snooker:
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Originally Posted by RTcases View PostHello to everyone. I am Roger Taft of RTcases lacated in the states.I want to try and answer as many of the questions that are on alot of your minds about custom made wooden snooker case. I've been making standard and snooker cue cases for approximately 6 years now and have had but one complaint and that was in the first year i was in business and that is the truth ,a minor complaint which was all worked out.With that said I'll go on. This being a snooker site i'll stick with that,I do make the 3/4 style cases as well as your one piece cases.The way i see it no case is ever the same , no one has the same likings or dislikings so hense the word custom.As Billabong has said i did make his case and we worked out all his details .I do this with most everyone,we go over wood choices,lining styles and colors,hardware and handle choices as well.Inlays ,if you want something special are looked over and my thoughts are interjected on all detalings.Not because i think i'm so smart ,thats not it,i just have been doing this for a while and more times then not can see if something is or isn't going to work.The weights on these case vary,depending on wood,and that is one item that i try to stress to customers that some woods just are not meant for this project,I would say that cases run any where from 4 to 6 pounds empty.I always try to keep things as light as i can.The question of warpage has been brought up, There is always the chance-whether the material is wood ,aluminum,or leather for what we call moving around. I personally will not say that this will never happen,but i take as many steps as i can to see to it that i sell a straight product. Many things have a hand in warping -moisture, cold heat.If anyone has any more questions or wishes to talk about a case just contact me. P M or email rhtandcompany@gmail.com also my web site is rhtcustomwood.com Thank you all.
Cheers, PP.Harder than you think is a beautiful thing.
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Originally Posted by DeanH View PostRTcases - welcome to TSF
I have been looking at your webiste for a long time, loving the craftsmanship and designs.
Can I ask about internal linings, I have seen the fuzzy-fluff but what else do you do? Suede? Something else?
cheers
ps. you cannot send or receive PMs until you have over 10 posts.Harder than you think is a beautiful thing.
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Originally Posted by DeanH View PostRTcases - welcome to TSF
I have been looking at your webiste for a long time, loving the craftsmanship and designs.
Can I ask about internal linings, I have seen the fuzzy-fluff but what else do you do? Suede? Something else?
cheers
ps. you cannot send or receive PMs until you have over 10 posts.
If it's any help, I was offered a few different colours of what I think was pool/snooker table cloth in addition to the
furry stuff. Roger can probably come back with the current choices though . .
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As for the lining .The choice would be your's I use a double felt mostly but the furry only when asked to use it.It is much harder to work with and i would think harder to keep clean. As far as anything use i probably would say yes to vynle but leather is not in my line.That is an art all its own.I appreciate the response and if i can be more help to you let me know. rhtandcompany@gmail.com
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Originally Posted by RTcases View PostAs for the lining .The choice would be your's I use a double felt mostly but the furry only when asked to use it.It is much harder to work with and i would think harder to keep clean. As far as anything use i probably would say yes to vynle but leather is not in my line.That is an art all its own.I appreciate the response and if i can be more help to you let me know. rhtandcompany@gmail.com
I've noticed some mitter and spline joints (as I call them) on the case corner ends. Do you also do dovetail joints as an option? I only ask this as my old woodwork teacher swore they were the strongest joints possible in wood (though age may make that statement wrong!). There is something very special about a dovetail joint to my eyes, it's unusual, it takes a lot of time, and it will only look right if done by someone with superb skills. As you soon as one sees a dovetail (not done by a machine), on furniture or a box etc, one knows a great craftsman has been at work. It would make a case more expensive I guess.Harder than you think is a beautiful thing.
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