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Kamui Beige or Kamui Black tips?

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  • #46
    Originally Posted by hotpot View Post
    I,m not sure why yours was so hard to trim or sand , whilst being firm the kamuis are the easiest to trim or sand of all the laminated tips i,ve tried , thats an unusual and unique characteristic about them and unlike any other hard tip .
    Yeah that's why. Even ADR also mentioned how come I'm unable to trim with a blade. I used a pen knife though and I think my pen knife is sharp enough because back then I was using elks, I have no problems trimming it with this blade. I would like to say this blade is the sharpest among all my blades already.

    I'm gonna sand it too. But from 14mm sand till 9.5mm to flush with ferrule is gonna take awhile. Mine's a Kamui tan medium. I might wanna drip some water on the side and see whether its easier to trim. Some also mentioned asking me to start trimming from the side instead of the usual way you deal with Elks or BD.

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    • #47
      Originally Posted by x3dnd3x View Post
      Yeah that's why. Even ADR also mentioned how come I'm unable to trim with a blade. I used a pen knife though and I think my pen knife is sharp enough because back then I was using elks, I have no problems trimming it with this blade. I would like to say this blade is the sharpest among all my blades already.

      I'm gonna sand it too. But from 14mm sand till 9.5mm to flush with ferrule is gonna take awhile. Mine's a Kamui tan medium. I might wanna drip some water on the side and see whether its easier to trim. Some also mentioned asking me to start trimming from the side instead of the usual way you deal with Elks or BD.
      Try a Swann Morton scalpal. Can be bought from art supplies shops. A Stanley knife is also a better blade, it has stiffness down the blade that's ideal. You want the thinnest, stiffest blade possible. A thin Kitchen devil pairing knife is also good. My fave is the Stanley if I lack time, but the Swann cuts better but requires more skill and time.

      *Btw, the fact that laminates are hard to cut and file is a good thing; it means they won't fluff up and fibre up later. Flipping GBL PGs. Grrrr
      Last edited by Particle Physics; 19 August 2012, 10:31 AM.
      Harder than you think is a beautiful thing.

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      • #48
        Originally Posted by Particle Physics View Post
        Try a Swann Morton scalpal. Can be bought from art supplies shops. A Stanley knife is also a better blade, it has stiffness down the blade that's ideal. You want the thinnest, stiffest blade possible. A thin Kitchen devil pairing knife is also good. My fave is the Stanley.

        *Btw, the fact that laminates are hard to cut and file is a good thing; it means they won't fluff up and fibre up later. Flipping GBL PGs. Grrrr
        Which one would be cheaper? A Swann Morton scalpal or Stanley knife?

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        • #49
          I just brought my black kamui from JJB sports as they should be original http://www.jjbsports.com/riley%20kamui%20laminated%20tips%20/snooker-/-pool/shop/fcp-product/28085

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          • #50
            Originally Posted by x3dnd3x View Post
            Which one would be cheaper? A Swann Morton scalpal or Stanley knife?
            Swann handles and blades are more expensive I think, I get mine free through the mrs. A Swann is a specialist tool, and the blades are incredibly sharp, possible the sharpest blades on the planet, for obvious reasons. If you choose a Swann, get a metal handled one, a No.3 handle, with a No.3 carbon steel blade. Get a non-sterile No.3 blade or similar, they're cheaper and you're not going to be removing anyone's organs, so it's not a problem. Artists and graphic designers swear by them.

            http://www.swann-morton.com/product_range/1.php

            A Swann needs to be treated with a bit of respect, don't attempt to take too much leather off at once, you might bend/crack the blade. Just take a bit off at a time. It's a great tool to have around for a lot of reasons. Don't be tempted to buy the disposable plastic handled Swann's, they really are surgical only, the handles break under heavy loading.

            Then again, you can get a Stanley in any DIY store, it's easier to hold for the less delicately fingered/coordinated, and the blades last longer. The Swanns are great tools though, very accurate cutting, down to a fraction of a mm. If you can handle a Swann, get one, great investment.
            Last edited by Particle Physics; 19 August 2012, 10:30 AM.
            Harder than you think is a beautiful thing.

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            • #51
              Originally Posted by thundershots147 View Post
              Here is the link to the tip that I bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KAMUI-PROF...b#ht_956wt_922
              Ive had a few tips of this seller m,mh and beige and not had a bad one, i do like the mh over the beige
              Last edited by prince07799; 19 August 2012, 10:51 AM.

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              • #52
                I bought a Stanley one instead. Swann Morton are way to expensive compared to the Stanley one I bought.

                Originally Posted by Particle Physics View Post
                Swann handles and blades are more expensive I think, I get mine free through the mrs. A Swann is a specialist tool, and the blades are incredibly sharp, possible the sharpest blades on the planet, for obvious reasons. If you choose a Swann, get a metal handled one, a No.3 handle, with a No.3 carbon steel blade. Get a non-sterile No.3 blade or similar, they're cheaper and you're not going to be removing anyone's organs, so it's not a problem. Artists and graphic designers swear by them.

                http://www.swann-morton.com/product_range/1.php

                A Swann needs to be treated with a bit of respect, don't attempt to take too much leather off at once, you might bend/crack the blade. Just take a bit off at a time. It's a great tool to have around for a lot of reasons. Don't be tempted to buy the disposable plastic handled Swann's, they really are surgical only, the handles break under heavy loading.

                Then again, you can get a Stanley in any DIY store, it's easier to hold for the less delicately fingered/coordinated, and the blades last longer. The Swanns are great tools though, very accurate cutting, down to a fraction of a mm. If you can handle a Swann, get one, great investment.

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                • #53
                  Kamui Beige or Kamui Black tips?

                  What type of glue should I use to put on the Kamui tip. I have currently used super glue to glue my Elkmaster tip, but I am worried in case the glue seeps through the tip. Should I use cement instead of glue?

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                  • #54
                    Originally Posted by thundershots147 View Post
                    What type of glue should I use to put on the Kamui tip. I have currently used super glue to glue my Elkmaster tip, but I am worried in case the glue seeps through the tip. Should I use cement instead of glue?
                    super glue or super glue gel is fine and will do no damage to your tip

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                    • #55
                      Kamui Beige or Kamui Black tips?

                      Ok thank you for the advice Prince .

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                      • #56
                        no probs mate any time

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                        • #57
                          hi, not sure what happened with this as obviously we sell lots of tips so cannot remember one off incidents, we do sell both m and mh and on the odd occasion where the wrong tip has been sent we will always ask for it to be returned and the correct one sent postage free. for any snooker forum members wishing to buy direct from us we can sell them direct to you at £7.80 each tip plus £1.65 postage(this is 2nd class recorded delivery) having seen comments on fake tips and video i have just checked all my stock which i get direct from bce and they are all genuine.
                          Originally Posted by Gerry Armstrong View Post
                          I bought a MH from Dave Coutts last year and got sent a M. When I phoned to ask why I'd been sent a M instead of a MH I was told they only sold Medium and hadn't heard of MH despite advertising MH.

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                          • #58
                            Originally Posted by louise sheldon View Post
                            hi, not sure what happened with this as obviously we sell lots of tips so cannot remember one off incidents, we do sell both m and mh and on the odd occasion where the wrong tip has been sent we will always ask for it to be returned and the correct one sent postage free. for any snooker forum members wishing to buy direct from us we can sell them direct to you at £7.80 each tip plus £1.65 postage(this is 2nd class recorded delivery) having seen comments on fake tips and video i have just checked all my stock which i get direct from bce and they are all genuine.
                            Its nice to see good sellers, at that price do i order from your site or some other way

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                            • #59
                              hi anyone interested please personal message us
                              Originally Posted by prince07799 View Post
                              Its nice to see good sellers, at that price do i order from your site or some other way

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                              • #60
                                Originally Posted by prince07799 View Post
                                super glue or super glue gel is fine and will do no damage to your tip
                                Super glue gel would be better as it doesn't soak into the wood and at least gel would not dry up. Most superglues, after 1 usage would dry up in their packaging.

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