Coutts royal tips

[dynamic]

I have been fitting and playing with all sorts of different tips for a long time now and I have to say if you are looking for the softer version of the Mike Wooldridge supertips look no further. The tips come as standard 10mm with the signature d.c on the bottom these tips fit really easily cut that shape really well and require not a lot of bedding in. I used to be a big fan of the old supertip and have stuck by them for a long time because they were a soft and a consistent tip, but after the news ones came out I found them too hard for me that's why I turned to the royal tip. The consistency shape and softness of the tip is very good the reaction and how they hold chalk is the reason I like them I haven't once miscued (touch wood) and always been happy with the reaction I get from them. So if you are looking for a tip similar to the old wooldrige supertip then I would give these a try @£4 a tip they are worth a punt.

Thank for reading and maybe this will help a few people who are looking for the softer tip without going down the layered road.

[mikeyd100]

Are these the ones you are referring to : http://www.couttscues.co.uk/product.php/6378217/

I loved the old MW Super Tips as well.

[Byrom]

While on there buy a bottle of this magic stuff too -

http://www.couttscues.co.uk/search.php/cue%20oil

[mikeyd100]

While on there buy a bottle of this magic stuff too -

http://www.couttscues.co.uk/search.php/cue%20oil

Is it easy to apply and leave a good smooth finish for the bridge hand ?

[dynamic]

Yes mate they are the ones

[dynamic]

Lol don't forget to wipe excess off after about 90 mins otherwise you could be left with a lot more work to do.

[mikeyd100]

Yes mate they are the ones

Cheers, I'm happy with MW Tips but no harm in giving this one a try too.
Re the oil I've done that before in regards to not wiping off properly, pain in the butt for sure.

[Byrom]

Is it easy to apply and leave a good smooth finish for the bridge hand ?

Yes it is and well I think it is the best stuff on the market if you like a super smooth oiled finish - so I highly recommend it. !0 outta 10 from me.

[mikeyd100]

Yes it is and well I think it is the best stuff on the market if you like a super smooth oiled finish - so I highly recommend it. !0 outta 10 from me.

Thanks Byrom, I will give it a go in the near future.

[Byrom]

Thanks Byrom, I will give it a go in the near future.

You are welcome I am none bias and have tried a few oil finishes - I don't know Coutts or anyone affiliated and pride myself on being non bias and can only go off what I have actually used myself - I have tried a few oils and Dave Coutts oil is by far the best finish for a cue I have ever used from any cue maker or any other source ever. If you like follow what I do and I guarantee your cue will be better than new and you will say the same - I Use zero zero grade to take the crap off my cue buff it with a clean cloth then I pour some of his magic formula into my hand rub down cue generously leave 60 mins allow it to soak in wood then take off any excess lightly with a tissue or fine cloth maybe repeat process - then leave overnight then buff to a finish in morning. This gives the best finish of any oil I ever tried - his oil is thicker than others and if you like a silky smooth oil finish then its the best by a long way and anyone who has a cue should use it in my humble opinion.

I have done a number of cues in it everyone is always amazed.

Hope this helps Mikey

[mikeyd100]

Nice one thanks Byrom
Well I’ve got an order in place now, tried Danish Oil and also Colron Finishing Oil for the shaft, the latter gave best result but still a touch sticky so it’s not an option now.

I’ll have a shot at how you do it too, regards your rustic method of applying by hand I’ll change by using lint free cloths, oils I’ve used before tend to leave my hands feeling funny for a few days lol.
So you personally always leave overnight as opposed to approximately 1 hour as suggested ?

Also do you initially apply a thin coating ?

Thanks

[DeanH]

So you personally always leave overnight as opposed to approximately 1 hour as suggested ?

Also do you initially apply a thin coating ?

I think you misread
you do both
apply a thin coat (you will be surprised how little you need out of the bottle to get a lot of oil on the cue)
leave this for 60 mins and then wipe of the excess
then leave overnight, then buff the cue

if you don't wipe off the excess you can end up with a bigger mess to remove and have to start again

[mikeyd100]

I think you misread
you do both
apply a thin coat (you will be surprised how little you need out of the bottle to get a lot of oil on the cue)
leave this for 60 mins and then wipe of the excess
then leave overnight, then buff the cue

if you don't wipe off the excess you can end up with a bigger mess to remove and have to start again

Ahh thanks Dean........ and sorry Byrom for speed reading - still not awake fully
Thin coat - Leave for 1 hour - Wipe off excess - Leave overnight - Buff as required.
Thanks.

By the way are you a cue maker Dean ?

[Leo]

Probably just me again, but I've owned my cue a few year now and must say I've never needed to buy these market oils that's supposedly does this and does that, when all I do once in a while is a use a damp cloth on it and a good buff. if you buy a decent cue from one of the decent cue makers it would've gone through the treatment anyhow which will last years. I suppose buying oils you feel like you're achieving something when really you ain't IMHO

[Neil Taperell]

Which is exactly what Trevor White advocates Leo .

Threw all my stuff away