Best Cue Oils

[SignumCues]

Hi Signum

I'm always interested in oil mixes.

How does your mix stand up against constant cleaning with damp cloths? It generally takes the shine off?

I see you are in Brighton, I'm just north of Portsmouth.

Firstly I never use a damp cloth so I wouldn’t know.the best way to clean your cue is with clean paper. It will remove dirt and naturally restore the shine by extremely lightly burnishing the surface. When your done the paper will be black and your cue will feel like brand new!

****woops.. I somehow posted this on another thread. I’m new at this forum game

[SignumCues]

And I’ve done it again. Apologies folks, this clearly isnt my bag

[Shockerz]

Firstly I never use a damp cloth so I wouldn’t know.the best way to clean your cue is with clean paper. It will remove dirt and naturally restore the shine by extremely lightly burnishing the surface. When your done the paper will be black and your cue will feel like brand new!

****woops.. I somehow posted this on another thread. I’m new at this forum game

Thanks for the reply Signum.

I guess we all have a preferred method. I've been told about the paper way many times but when I do the damp cloth, then dry cloth method for about 20 seconds it comes out super smooth.

I've just got 6 cues and again tried the paper method against the damp cloth and it's not even close for me; I've been doing the same method for 37 years.

I've been told the damp cloth will damage the cue by a couple of people over the years but it's never been the case as as soon as you have wiped it you vigorously clean it with the dry end and the results are great as the water evaporates.

The paper does get grime off but even the burnishing effect doesn't get everything (grease) off in my opinion but we all see it differently which is one of the reasons the forum it great as I can guarantee we all swear by something different!

Always nice to see how others do it. Nice chatting.

[hasan.rashid14]

These are the best products that I have used till date.

[mikeyd100]

yep, I have that Tru-Oil stuff, good for butts but I dont use it on shafts

In regards to putting Tru Oil on the butt ..... how does one deal with doing the splices, trying not to get any on the shaft ?...

[DeanH]

In regards to putting Tru Oil on the butt ..... how does one deal with doing the splices, trying not to get any on the shaft ?...

I only used it on the butt 1/4 bits (on 3/4 cues)
but it wont hurt the bit of shaft between the butt splices, when I said not used on shafts I meant the bridge area as I find it too "sticky/draggy".

[mikeyd100]

I only used it on the butt 1/4 bits (on 3/4 cues)
but it wont hurt the bit of shaft between the butt splices, when I said not used on shafts I meant the bridge area as I find it too "sticky/draggy".

Cheers, I was concerned that it might look funny if I got it between the splices ... what d'ya reckon ?

[DeanH]

Cheers, I was concerned that it might look funny if I got it between the splices ... what d'ya reckon ?

of course you can sometimes see the difference between the shaft with this oil and the shaft without. I personally dont mind, the look does not affect the play, the feel on cueing does

[mikeyd100]

of course you can sometimes see the difference between the shaft with this oil and the shaft without. I personally dont mind, the look does not affect the play, the feel on cueing does

Seriously ???? .... the look doesn't affect the play !! ........... I've learnt something today

[Bell308]

not an oil but i quite like this, Hampshire Sheen High Gloss Paste Wax - 130g | Axminster Tools
on true-oil this is effectivley a polymer version of a traditional "London Oil" stock finish, however the original "London oil" is a mix of boiled linseed oil and a dryer to speed up the drying process as this often takes between 30 and sixty couts to be applied and slurry sanded between coats to grainfill walnut. i gave up mixing my own oil years ago and went to the "trade secret" products which are very good and can produce a hard waring high gloss finish in a resonable time with 5-6 coats.Trade Secret Stock Care – The Best English Oil Finish
the rapid oil, is a low gloss finish, and becomes a high glos when the TS-95 oil is used with it.
avoid the Alkenet oil as this is bright red / purple and is intended for enhancing the dark grain in walnut.

[Ninja.cues]

I use linseed oil to clean cues.

Put some on a cotton ball and give it a good rub, then wipe it off with a kitchen towel.
Clean cue and cleaned at the same time

[Jim Magee]

Hi all,

Just on cue oils. I bought some 'Q oil' from ebay. I've used the oil on a few cues, and i think i did it as directed - thin coats, 24 hrs to dry, 0000 grade wire wool after each coat, lots of buffing to finish, etc. The finish was quite good, but shinier than i wanted, but it kind of rubbed off in places where I hold the cue after a fairly small number of sessions of play.

I appreciate that finishes don't last forever, but i don't want to re-oil the butt every month. Has anyone got any recommendations that last longer?

i was looking at 'Birchwood Casey gun stock wax' which it's claimed doesn't rub off like oils. Has anyone tried it? i have some Longoni wax which i use for shafts - would that work on butts too?

cheers, Jim