Cue finishing/Tipping accessories

[qc2]

I topped up on some accessories today and thought I'd share as haven't seen these ever mentioned specifically.

Super Glue Gel:
https://www.toolstation.com/superglue/p10893
£2.63 for a big 50g bottle (typically super glue comes in 3g tubes!) with great shelf life and nozzle that doesn't block. Peanuts compared to the options often mentioned here. Different viscosity options are available for different jobs but this thick gel is great for tips.

Wet and Dry Sandpaper:
https://www.toolstation.com/search?q=wet%20dry%20paper
I typically work up from 320/400 grit (codes 73854/99182), to 600 (51476) then finish with 1200 (36366) when doing finishing a shaft, used dry only.

[Ninja.cues]

I topped up on some accessories today and thought I'd share as haven't seen these ever mentioned specifically.

Super Glue Gel:
https://www.toolstation.com/superglue/p10893
£2.63 for a big 50g bottle (typically super glue comes in 3g tubes!) with great shelf life and nozzle that doesn't block. Peanuts compared to the options often mentioned here. Different viscosity options are available for different jobs but this thick gel is great for tips.

Wet and Dry Sandpaper:
https://www.toolstation.com/search?q=wet%20dry%20paper
I typically work up from 320/400 grit (codes 73854/99182), to 600 (51476) then finish with 1200 (36366) when doing finishing a shaft, used dry only.

Sanding Sealer:
https://www.toolstation.com/natural-...-sealer/p94067
This shellac sealer I used for the first time tonight building up layers to re-grain 2 cues. Of all the methods to re-grain this is undoubtedly my favourite now. Dries very quickly too. Mixed with some black earth pigment to whatever darkness required, it's magic. The key is getting the shaft as smooth as possible before applying. As you remove the excess between layers, it's easier taking off a smoother surface. Used correctly and with the right levels of sanding between layers this helps get that glass like smoothness on an ash shaft. I'd also be more confident of this finish staying in the grain better than grain filler based on my own experience.

I use the same glue and it's great for the money.
Also they wet and dry up to 600 but didn't see that they did 1200 too, good to know.

Get my sanding sealer from somewhere I've been going to for year's as they make they own and it's cheaper to, if you want to know where?

[fkhan]

Good information. Does wet sand paper mean it's 'water proof' ?

[qc2]

wet and dry is simply sandpaper and can be used wet or dry. Not recommended to use wet on wood but for car bodywork it's often used wet.

[qc2]

Get my sanding sealer from somewhere I've been going to for year's as they make they own and it's cheaper to, if you want to know where?

Assuming it's all similar stuff, this is cheap and convenient enough for me. I won't get through anywhere near enough to need any more any time soon any way! thanks for the offer though Colin

[frazz]

That's the glue I use for doing tips, much better than loctite and cheaper for a much bigger bottle

[fkhan]

wet and dry is simply sandpaper and can be used wet or dry. Not recommended to use wet on wood but for car bodywork it's often used wet.

Thanks qc2, I will try some of this glue, much cheaper than loctite which I use.

[Gethdan]

Wet and dry sandpaper's grit is silicone carbide as opposed to the normal sandpaper which is aluminium oxide and is more aggressive

[wade]

After using the sealer, did you use any kind of oil to finish? Or no need to?

[qc2]

yes. once you sand it back, it will only remain in the grain. the whole cue will then need some oil to finish. several light coats is best rather than single heavy coats that can easily go wrong and sticky

[inevermissblue]

I use 2000, 2500 & 3000 grade paper. The finish is superb! Looks like glass afterwards.

I use the very cheap epoxy resin adhesive for my ferrules and tips. Only costs around £1-£2. A & B resin/hardeners. Fairly quick setting time too. Within 5 mins.

[TroyKelly]

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