Ton Praram Cue oil

[throwawayttyl102]

I am thinking about oiling my cue, I purchased oil when I ordered the cue. This is my first time oiling a cue and have no idea on how to get along. Any help on instructions would be appreciated.

[DeanH]

Literally as little as possible, you will be surprised how far little will go
Apply with lint-free cloth or paper-towel.
Take lid/cap of the oil bottle, cover the opening with the cloth/paper-towel and tip to apply oil, do this quickly and remove cloth/paper-towel and replace lid/cap
Wipe onto the whole cue.
Allow oil to soak in for a few minutes - do not allow the cue to touch anything - I stand my cues in a corner so only the butt-end and the tip are touching anything, stand as vertical as possible.
With a new cloth/towel, wipe down the cue to remove all excess oil.
Allow to stand and dry.
Once dry or nearly dry to touch, wipe down with cloth/paper-towel and vigorously buff.
if the cue still feels like it need more oil, repeat the above.
Allow to dry again. And if necessary wipe down again Buff and more buff

Never put too much oil on, it wont save time as you will only have to more spend longer wiping and buffing it all off!

Depending on the mixture of oils, some dry quickly soon take longer. Keep an eye on your baby - er cue - never leave unattended especially if others (children, etc.) are around!

[cueman]

When I first had a decent cue, parris trad, according to what John said and on his website, it seemed like oiling cue was extremely important.

I regularly applied linseed oil and did as Dean mentioned. However, all it seemed to do is darken the colour of the ash, and was similar to applying creosote to a fence. I never felt that the ash benefitted from the oil, in fact, most the time it's just wiping off most of what I applied, which was very little!

Ever since that I've never oiled any cue I've owned since and in my opinion unless the wood has really dried out, you really don't need to do it, it's pretty much a waste of time. I've kept that cue which is now getting on for 30 years though I stopped using it about 12 years ago. I've had maximus, phoenix, craftsman, mastercraft, Trev W and most recent was another parris and despite playing with them, none of them needed oiling and still play as well as the day I had them.

[DeanH]

When I first had a decent cue, parris trad, according to what John said and on his website, it seemed like oiling cue was extremely important.

I regularly applied linseed oil and did as Dean mentioned. However, all it seemed to do is darken the colour of the ash, and was similar to applying creosote to a fence. I never felt that the ash benefitted from the oil, in fact, most the time it's just wiping off most of what I applied, which was very little!

Ever since that I've never oiled any cue I've owned since and in my opinion unless the wood has really dried out, you really don't need to do it, it's pretty much a waste of time. I've kept that cue which is now getting on for 30 years though I stopped using it about 12 years ago. I've had maximus, phoenix, craftsman, mastercraft, Trev W and most recent was another parris and despite playing with them, none of them needed oiling and still play as well as the day I had them.

Agreed, I should have also said, only oil if necessary.
What is most important is playing with clean dry hands and wiping with a dry cloth the cue before and after playing

[throwawayttyl102]

Literally as little as possible, you will be surprised how far little will go
Apply with lint-free cloth or paper-towel.
Take lid/cap of the oil bottle, cover the opening with the cloth/paper-towel and tip to apply oil, do this quickly and remove cloth/paper-towel and replace lid/cap
Wipe onto the whole cue.
Allow oil to soak in for a few minutes - do not allow the cue to touch anything - I stand my cues in a corner so only the butt-end and the tip are touching anything, stand as vertical as possible.
With a new cloth/towel, wipe down the cue to remove all excess oil.
Allow to stand and dry.
Once dry or nearly dry to touch, wipe down with cloth/paper-towel and vigorously buff.
if the cue still feels like it need more oil, repeat the above.
Allow to dry again. And if necessary wipe down again Buff and more buff

Never put too much oil on, it wont save time as you will only have to more spend longer wiping and buffing it all off!

Depending on the mixture of oils, some dry quickly soon take longer. Keep an eye on your baby - er cue - never leave unattended especially if others (children, etc.) are around!

Thanks a lot. Only if there was a video of it somewhere..

[throwawayttyl102]

When I first had a decent cue, parris trad, according to what John said and on his website, it seemed like oiling cue was extremely important.

I regularly applied linseed oil and did as Dean mentioned. However, all it seemed to do is darken the colour of the ash, and was similar to applying creosote to a fence. I never felt that the ash benefitted from the oil, in fact, most the time it's just wiping off most of what I applied, which was very little!

Ever since that I've never oiled any cue I've owned since and in my opinion unless the wood has really dried out, you really don't need to do it, it's pretty much a waste of time. I've kept that cue which is now getting on for 30 years though I stopped using it about 12 years ago. I've had maximus, phoenix, craftsman, mastercraft, Trev W and most recent was another parris and despite playing with them, none of them needed oiling and still play as well as the day I had them.

Currently my academy is closed due to corona and might open soon, hence I've been playing in an old school dingy place where I have to wipe down the cue with wet towel then dry side regularly. Also powder becomes a must since the cue starts sticking after a while. So I chose to oil the cue every 4 months until I am playing there.

If the color gets darker after oiling then it's a plus for me as I like darker color cue more for no reason. I am just avoiding to take any chances as it is my first expensive cue.

[throwawayttyl102]

Agreed, I should have also said, only oil if necessary.
What is most important is playing with clean dry hands and wiping with a dry cloth the cue before and after playing

How do I know if the cue is ready for oiling?

[j6uk]

Currently my academy is closed due to corona and might open soon, hence I've been playing in an old school dingy place where I have to wipe down the cue with wet towel then dry side regularly. Also powder becomes a must since the cue starts sticking after a while. So I chose to oil the cue every 4 months until I am playing there.

If the color gets darker after oiling then it's a plus for me as I like darker color cue more for no reason. I am just avoiding to take any chances as it is my first expensive cue.

If a new cue gets sticky, its likely to be sealed with a finish. If so the oil may sit there or won’t absorb properly.

[throwawayttyl102]

If a new cue gets sticky, its likely to be sealed with a finish. If so the oil may sit there or won’t absorb properly.

Any suggestions? Help would be appreciated in prayers.

[j6uk]

Any suggestions? Help would be appreciated in prayers.

Refinishing.
If the oil doesn’t take after 20min then it maybe a simple light rub with 000/0000 wire wool.
would need the cue in my hands, though a few close focused pics of the shaft may give it away.

[throwawayttyl102]

Refinishing.
If the oil doesn’t take after 20min then it maybe a simple light rub with 000/0000 wire wool.
would need the cue in my hands, though a few close focused pics of the shaft may give it away.

https://ibb.co/5xhnmgc
https://ibb.co/8g0F3sw
https://ibb.co/GWV1NkT
https://ibb.co/rG2s2sg

Above are the photos. I hope it doesn't need rubbing or refinish.

[vmax]

How do I know if the cue is ready for oiling?

How new is your cue ?

If it's quite new then it won't need oiling for a couple of years, after that once a year only. Clean it with a damp cloth, damp not wet, with a little soap to remove the dirt, dry it immediately with a clean cloth, then rub down lightly with a wad of 0000 grade steel wool to remove the outer layer of old oil, it won't absorb any new oil until this is done, then clean with a cloth dampened in white spirit or IPA to remove the fine dust, dampened not wet or you will raise the grain. It will dry really quickly as the spirit/alcohol evaporates, then liberally apply oil with a clean lint free cloth, leave for ten minutes and then remove any excess with a clean cloth, leave overnight to dry, then oil again the next day, remove any excess, leave overnight again, then buff it like crazy for five minutes and leave it to cure for a week.
The curing is quite important, just because it feels dry doesn't mean the oil has hardened and sealed the surface, it has to cure and this is why raw linseed is not recomended because it never really cures, boiled linseed or a selection of danish oils are your best bet or even a good wood wax.

Oiling or waxing your cue is simply to stop it warping, wood will warp if it absorbs moisture and wood will warp if it loses moisture so the surface must be sealed to prevent this happening. Varnish is best for this but it's sticky on the bridge hand so oil or wax will seal the wood but with a matt finish that isn't sticky but it isn't as permanent as varnish so it needs to be regularly re-applied.

[throwawayttyl102]

How new is your cue ?

If it's quite new then it won't need oiling for a couple of years, after that once a year only. Clean it with a damp cloth, damp not wet, with a little soap to remove the dirt, dry it immediately with a clean cloth, then rub down lightly with a wad of 0000 grade steel wool to remove the outer layer of old oil, it won't absorb any new oil until this is done, then clean with a cloth dampened in white spirit or IPA to remove the fine dust, dampened not wet or you will raise the grain. It will dry really quickly as the spirit/alcohol evaporates, then liberally apply oil with a clean lint free cloth, leave for ten minutes and then remove any excess with a clean cloth, leave overnight to dry, then oil again the next day, remove any excess, leave overnight again, then buff it like crazy for five minutes and leave it to cure for a week.
The curing is quite important, just because it feels dry doesn't mean the oil has hardened and sealed the surface, it has to cure and this is why raw linseed is not recomended because it never really cures, boiled linseed or a selection of danish oils are your best bet or even a good wood wax.

Oiling or waxing your cue is simply to stop it warping, wood will warp if it absorbs moisture and wood will warp if it loses moisture so the surface must be sealed to prevent this happening. Varnish is best for this but it's sticky on the bridge hand so oil or wax will seal the wood but with a matt finish that isn't sticky but it isn't as permanent as varnish so it needs to be regularly re-applied.

Thanks for the advice. It is 4 months old hence no oiling required I guess.

[j6uk]

https://ibb.co/5xhnmgc
https://ibb.co/8g0F3sw
https://ibb.co/GWV1NkT
https://ibb.co/rG2s2sg

Above are the photos. I hope it doesn't need rubbing or refinish.

Put a bit of oil on and see.. you can wipe off with meth-spirit after.

[throwawayttyl102]

Put a bit of oil on and see.. you can wipe off with meth-spirit after.

Okay, will test.