Advice: Cue Care and small repairs

[Ronansnooker2022]

Hi all, recently joined so first post for me.
I am getting back into snooker after a number of years, so the cue has been packed away.

Any advice on how to treat the butt end of the cue? The picture doesn't really do it justice but the end is quite dried out compared to the rest. Also, would anyone have advice to repair dents and dings? I went down the cotton bud route etc with no real joy. I know these are small thing I guess with hindsight should have been more careful and all that. Anyway, looking forward to learning more here and getting back into this great game. Thanks folks

[vmax]

What picture ?

[Ronansnooker2022]

What picture ?

Apologies, I think I've to have posted a number of posts before I can post photos? Can't seem to edit my post either I meant 'Cue care and small repairs'

[DeanH]

welcome to TSF Ronan
as a newbie you do not have attachment function until over 10posts

but you can do the following:

How to add images to your TSF posts
You can use a free image-sharing site such as ImgBB, without registering (you can register for free), to upload your images, you may have to do the “not a robot” checks quickly. There are other image sharing sites as well.
ImgBB.com
Click on "Start Uploading"
Browse to the file and select it, click Open
Auto delete image - leave as "Don't autodelete".
Click "Upload".
Change "Embed Codes" to "BBCode full linked".
Hover over the code in the box, a "COPY" will appear, click this.
Go to your TSF post and paste.
You can repeat for multiple images in a single post.

[DeanH]

Apologies, I think I've to have posted a number of posts before I can post photos? Can't seem to edit my post either I meant 'Cue care and small repairs'

topic fixed for you
there will be a lot you can not do until over 10posts (and some patience) and even then there are still some functions restricted

[DeanH]

"cotton bud route"
how long did you leave the damp cotton in the dent?
I have found that some needed a refresh of dampness for a couple of days to get stubborn dents out

[Ronansnooker2022]

"cotton bud route"
how long did you leave the damp cotton in the dent?
I have found that some needed a refresh of dampness for a couple of days to get stubborn dents out

Thanks Dean, I left it overnight but might be no harm in giving it longer. I have pasted in the photo links so that might give a better idea. Cheers

https://ibb.co/N6qNFwb
https://ibb.co/vcSPLgY

[DeanH]

Thanks Dean, I left it overnight but might be no harm in giving it longer. I have pasted in the photo links so that might give a better idea. Cheers

https://ibb.co/N6qNFwb
https://ibb.co/vcSPLgY

tip: you missed a step, if you follow every step the photos will display instead of just a link

been a while since I have seen that badge

[Ronansnooker2022]

tip: you missed a step, if you follow every step the photos will display instead of just a link

been a while since I have seen that badge

Ah ok! (I am learning already haha) Yes I'm not sure if Shark cues exist anymore? I won it in an online draw years ago, inclined to take care now getting back into snooker again! Been my only cue.

[DeanH]

To me the photos show gouges not dents, i.e. wood removed not compressed, cotton wont do it

[Ronansnooker2022]

To me the photos show gouges not dents, i.e. wood removed not compressed, cotton wont do it

To be honest I am thinking the same as there are two fairly deep gouges unfortunately. Do you think they can be filled and then smooth out? Or is that a hard task with wood/grains/wood type etc?

[DeanH]

To be honest I am thinking the same as there are two fairly deep gouges unfortunately. Do you think they can be filled and then smooth out? Or is that a hard task with wood/grains/wood type etc?

I hope one of our resident cue doctor/maker come on here for you
I am good with cotton wool, not much with filler

[vmax]

It looks to me like the laquer on the butt has a couple of dings in it. One needs to remove the laquer (on the butt only) completely with 120 grade sandpaper, then sand over with 180 grade, then a final sanding with 200 grade and finish with a good buffing with 0000 grade steel wool.
Wipe the cue down with a cloth dampened with white spirit or IPA to remove any dust and then treat it to about three or four coats of danish oil with at least six hours between each coat, I would apply the oil liberally, then remove any excess and leave overnight before the next coat. Leave the oil to cure for at least a week after applying the final coat, just feeling dry isn't good enough, it needs time to cure.

If the rest of the cue is also laquered then do the above proceedure with the whole cue. BTW take care to avoid sanding the badge as it will scratch and it's a long process to bring it back to looking good again.

[Shockerz]

It looks to me like the laquer on the butt has a couple of dings in it. One needs to remove the laquer (on the butt only) completely with 120 grade sandpaper, then sand over with 180 grade, then a final sanding with 200 grade and finish with a good buffing with 0000 grade steel wool.
Wipe the cue down with a cloth dampened with white spirit or IPA to remove any dust and then treat it to about three or four coats of danish oil with at least six hours between each coat, I would apply the oil liberally, then remove any excess and leave overnight before the next coat. Leave the oil to cure for at least a week after applying the final coat, just feeling dry isn't good enough, it needs time to cure.

If the rest of the cue is also laquered then do the above proceedure with the whole cue. BTW take care to avoid sanding the badge as it will scratch and it's a long process to bring it back to looking good again.

Hi Vmax

Long time since we last spoke, hope all.is well.

I tend to use a scraper round the badge area as you can pull it right up to the badge without damaging it.

I also use a wax/oil mix on previously lacquered cues as it seems to help if any wood pores are still holding some of the lacquer. If I apply it with the 0000 steel wool it helps hold/grip the mixture.

it all depends on what lacquer they've used as there as so many different types with quite a few now being toxic if exposed to long term so I generally use a scraper to remove it over the full area and then fine sand.

Obviously many ways to do it so nice to see whst others do.

[vmax]

Hi Vmax

Long time since we last spoke, hope all.is well.

I tend to use a scraper round the badge area as you can pull it right up to the badge without damaging it.

I also use a wax/oil mix on previously lacquered cues as it seems to help if any wood pores are still holding some of the lacquer. If I apply it with the 0000 steel wool it helps hold/grip the mixture.

it all depends on what lacquer they've used as there as so many different types with quite a few now being toxic if exposed to long term so I generally use a scraper to remove it over the full area and then fine sand.

Obviously many ways to do it so nice to see whst others do.

Good shout about using a scraper, I've used my scraper plane on cheap mass produced cues that have had crap finishing hidden by really thick laquer/varnish. What they get away with is surprising, huge dings and gouges filled and laquered.

Starting to make some more cues now as all the ones I made during my five month furlough have now sold. Took a long time to sell them (two years) as after lockdown the market divebombed, for me anyway. Four 3/4 pearwood shafts and two pearwood 9 ball shafts have been resting for two years now so it's time to make them into something nice with wenge and coconut palm. Coconut palm, now that's a tough timber, have you tried it ?