Cue specs

[Eels155]

Hi. So I've played snooker on and off my whole life. I'm in the market for a new cue but it is apparent to me that I haven't got a clue on what I want spec wise. How would I know if I want a 9.5 or a 9.7" tip? 57" or 59" length? I know I want maple, I know I want one piece. Also, what's the pluses/negatives of a 3/4 cue compared to a one piece? Cheers.

[pottr]

58" will do you just fine. If you're over 6'3" you might want an extra inch but it's not a massive factor.

Anything between 9 and 9.5mm will sort you out a dream. You will adapt to a smaller/bigger tip size far easier than a cue that's the wrong length

A 3/4 cue is easier to transport and you have far more options in terms of cases. In terms of playability I much prefer a one piece.

One negative side of a 3/4 is that you can have issues with the joints over time.

[vmax]

Measure from the floor to the tip of your shoulder, anything within an inch of that is the right length for you. Tip from 10mm to 9.5mm is OK for snooker, even 11mm works ok, anything less makes it more difficult to strike the exact centre of the cue ball.

A 3/4 cue is just as good as a one piece and easier to transport, the shaft of a cue ends where it no longer flexes, past that point is just decorative hardwood, weight for balance and the bit that you hold.

Balance is more important than weight as a poorly balanced light cue can feel heavy in the grip hand and light on the bridge hand and vice versa for a heavy cue.Cue must feel neutral in the grip hand, like the weight is spread out rather than in one place, reference point for me for a standard length cue of 57/58 inches is around 18/20 inches from the end of the butt and this depends on the weight of the shaft as some timber is denser than others but that's being a bit anal as one can get used to anything that's about right.

Straight is a must for a new cue as one will have that in the back of ones mind everytime a poor shot is played with a cue that is slightly bent, even though the cue can held in the place where the bend goes up or down and therefore can go through straight without deviating, which is the thing to do with a bent cue.

[itsnoteasy]

Vmax, I know this is a bit of a deep dive for probably no reason and I agree the flex may end at say the shoulder of the cue or above but on a one piece cue the vibration from the strike will flow, if that's the right expression, right down the cue and out the bottom, with a three quarter the joint will stop the vibration and as it's a wave probably send some of it back up the shaft, that's my theory anyway.
What difference that makes, even if its true, I haven't got a clue, just wondering what a cue makers take on that would be?

[vmax]

Vmax, I know this is a bit of a deep dive for probably no reason and I agree the flex may end at say the shoulder of the cue or above but on a one piece cue the vibration from the strike will flow, if that's the right expression, right down the cue and out the bottom, with a three quarter the joint will stop the vibration and as it's a wave probably send some of it back up the shaft, that's my theory anyway.
What difference that makes, even if its true, I haven't got a clue, just wondering what a cue makers take on that would be?

The strike is only a nano second and any resonance that flows along the shaft and back again won't make a halfpence of difference if there is such a thing and to be honest the weight in the butt of any one piece, and there always is one as the bare timber would only make the cue weigh about 14oz's, will do the same thing if there was.

On the other hand to put the joint of a 3/4 exactly on the balance point and weight the cue there with extra weight in both the shaft and butt makes it very easy to balance the cue perfectly, this can only be done with precision though if the cue is made as a one piece and then split; most mass produced 3/4'ers are not made this way though, solid butt piece joined to a shorter shaft blank saves money on good shaft wood being lost under splices where it isn't needed as it's only the handle.

This fixation with one piece cues really took off with Ronnie, yes of course a one piece cue can feel better than a 3/4 jointed cue but this is down to the shaft response and balance of the cue.
Robertson won the worlds with a 3/4, hasn't been anywhere close with his one piece that allegedly 'feels' better.

[itsnoteasy]

The strike is only a nano second and any resonance that flows along the shaft and back again won't make a halfpence of difference if there is such a thing and to be honest the weight in the butt of any one piece, and there always is one as the bare timber would only make the cue weigh about 14oz's, will do the same thing if there was.

On the other hand to put the joint of a 3/4 exactly on the balance point and weight the cue there with extra weight in both the shaft and butt makes it very easy to balance the cue perfectly, this can only be done with precision though if the cue is made as a one piece and then split; most mass produced 3/4'ers are not made this way though, solid butt piece joined to a shorter shaft blank saves money on good shaft wood being lost under splices where it isn't needed as it's only the handle.

This fixation with one piece cues really took off with Ronnie, yes of course a one piece cue can feel better than a 3/4 jointed cue but this is down to the shaft response and balance of the cue.
Robertson won the worlds with a 3/4, hasn't been anywhere close with his one piece that allegedly 'feels' better.

Yeah good point about the weight, I never thought of that. As I said I doubt it makes much difference, if any, was just wondering what someone who works with wood would think.