who has used raw linseed oil?

[Squat Johnson]

Snooker people,

I was getting my tip replaced when the sales rep mentioned my cue seemed dry. I asked what oil he would recommended and he suggested plain old linseed oil -- from the supermarket. It's the first time this guy has not tried to leverage the conversation toward selling me something he stocks. So I have bought some linseed oil. That's when I checked this forum and saw the raw vs boiled debate.

Now I am asking: has anyone used raw linseed on their cue, did it work, and if yes, I would love to know the process you followed. Like, what did you use to apply the oil? How long did you leave the cue to absorb the oil, do you have to leave the cue in a certain way? etc.

I'm quite new to playing snooker seriously and it's my first time doing anything cue maintenance-wise. Grateful for any tips and advice.

Thanks

[vmax]

Don't use raw linseed oil as it dries but it doesn't cure, curing is when the oil hardens after drying to a finish that no longer allows moisture to escape from the wood or any moisture to be absorbed into the wood thus preventing the cue warping.
Use boiled linseed or danish oil as both of these oils will cure. Remove the finish from the cue with a piece of 0000 grade steel wool dipped in methelated spirit or white spirit, remove excess with a clean cloth and allow 30 minutes to dry. Then apply the oil liberally with a clean cloth, wait 5 minutes and remove the excess oil, again with a clean cloth. Leave to dry for 6 hours and repeat another four times, then leave the cue for two days for the oil to cure, buff it like a madman to a nice shine
Do this annually and your cue will last a lifetime, I do mine every xmas holiday, it's over 40 years old and is still dead straight and looks new.

[DeanH]

I am still using raw linseed - because I bought it years ago and still going strong, and never had any issues with it drying more than enough to use

As vmax says, the application is the same; just buff and buff, and then buff some more

[Nifty50]

I don’t think you need to go berserk with oiling. Once a year is enough imo. But yes buff buff buff.

[SnookerfromtheThatcherEra]

Just for clarity - when everyone says "buff" and "buff and buff, and then buff some more" and "buff buff buff" = "buff" means rubbing with a dry, clean/new (lint-free?) cloth up and down the shaft to remove any traces, and bring out the smoothness/shine?

Thanks - genuine question, don't want to sound like an idiot, but don't want to get any detail wrong when it's the precious cue at stake.

[DeanH]

Just for clarity - when everyone says "buff" and "buff and buff, and then buff some more" and "buff buff buff" = "buff" means rubbing with a dry, clean/new (lint-free?) cloth up and down the shaft to remove any traces, and bring out the smoothness/shine?

Thanks - genuine question, don't want to sound like an idiot, but don't want to get any detail wrong when it's the precious cue at stake.

To me, yes exactly that; to use a clean cloth or kitchen paper towel sheets; to remove initial excess of oil, then to "polish" to get a smooth even finish

[SnookerfromtheThatcherEra]

Thanks, Dean - I don't mind appearing a moron when the risk/downside is possibly f*ck*ng up my cue!

[fkhan]

I tried raw linseed oil, it’s good but takes forever to completely dry. Hence, I switched to the MW Q gel which dries a lot faster and is not as messy.

[Secret_oath]

Good thread. I had two new cues, a cue and a breakcue, put in a leather case, with partial cream interior, interior has yellow stains on it in the shape of the ebony splicings now. Not the end of the world but any recommendations to clean that, I’ve since buffed the cues?

[Mark187187]

Good thread. I had two new cues, a cue and a breakcue, put in a leather case, with partial cream interior, interior has yellow stains on it in the shape of the ebony splicings now. Not the end of the world but any recommendations to clean that, I’ve since buffed the cues?

Leather furniture cleaner or just leave it so you don't make it worse

[Secret_oath]

I’m feeling the latter