New, old cue.

[vainparasite]

Last week I won a cue craft cue with extension and case on ebay all for £19.05 + delivery.
It came this morning with no tip and a bit of a funny green tinge to it so i've spent the morning putting a tip on and fixing up the case a bit, I have given the shaft a wipe with a damp cloth and given it a buff up and most of the dirt has come off it i have also taken a dribble of old superglue off the end of the shaft very carefully with some 1200s wet and dry.
I must admit the cue feels fantastic compared to my cheap Riley and i cant wait to have a go with it, but as i am waiting delivery of one of ADR's this is going to my son.
The question is what do i treat the cue with?
I have seen oils and waxes but really dont know what to do with it.
One guy at work says he uses mr sheen but i have never heard anyone else doing this.
Any advice is welcomed, cheers:snooker:

[FINGERS1971]

do NOT use mr sheen lol. best thing to use is some watered down mild detergent to clean your cue, once dry apply a thin coat of raw linseed oil allow to dry overnight and then buff off. alternately you can buy some cue wax fr craftsman cues which will the same job!

[vainparasite]

Thanks Fingers, Ill get some linseed oil tmorra.

[FINGERS1971]

no problem vain make sure you get raw not boiled tho!

[ChatLag]

I found out that the best raw linseed oil is a bleached one. This will prevent the shaft from getting too yellow over the time.
This oil you get in shops where painters buy their stuff for oil-based colors.

[Asi]

I found out that the best raw linseed oil is a bleached one. This will prevent the shaft from getting too yellow over the time.
This oil you get in shops where painters buy their stuff for oil-based colors.

Can you share more of this fact? I have been told by 2 top cue makers that as long as you use raw linseed oil and NOT the boiled one your shaft wont get too yellow over time. Thanks

[ChatLag]

It might be correct that the shaft will not be too yellow. But i am quite sure that the yellowish oil will influence the color of the shaft.
I have heard many opinions about which oil is best. Some say that it does not matter if you use raw or boiled oil, others say you have to use only the raw oil.
I have read about the bleached oil that it is a raw oil and the yellow particles which are a bit slimy are removed under high pressure.
In oil based colors this oil is used because it will not affect the color of the pigments and stys stable over a long period.

[Asi]

Yes, I've heard many opinions as well regarding the use of linseed oil, most of them recommending using the Raw.
You might have a point though, as I found this on painters/arts supplier web shop:
"Bleached Linseed Oil - This oil is thinner and paler than thickened linseed oil and is useful for use with white and pale colors. It dries slightly slower than boiled linseed oil"

[ChatLag]

That is the exact english version of a german text i've read in a webshop.

It sounded logical to me so I ordered it and also what is called "lineseed stand oil".
This stuff is thick like honey, also pale in color, takes a lot of time to dry but makes a good surface and is perfect to polish.

[vmax4steve]

My cue is over twenty five years old and has an unfinished ash shaft. I treat it twice a year to a clean with a damp soapy flannel, followed by a thick coating of an antique furniture polish from Kleeneze, which I leave to soak in for about an hour before buffing to a shine.
The polish is a blend of natural waxes, including beeswax, and leaves the cue feeling smooth and silky, and most importantly, stops the wood from drying out so the cue is still dead straight.

[vainparasite]

I went to the local trade paint supply place today but they had never heard of bleached linseed oil so i just got some raw linseed, what a difference it has made.. i gave the shaft a light rub with a fine scotch brite pad then gave it a coat of the linseed, after about 10 mins it was dry as a bone so i gave it some more and left it for about 8 hours and buffed it up and its come out fantastic. It must have never been treated before as it was in a very dry pale condition but now it feels and looks superb.
Thanks for all your advice guys.
Martin.

[ChatLag]

That's good to hear that your cue was thankful for the treatment.

I have checked and the correct English word for this oil is "Refined Linseed Oil"...

Can be viewed and ordered here:

http://www.kremer-pigmente.de/shopin...&product=73300

[RGCirencester]

Oh refined linseed oil! I've seen that but i didn't know what you were on about with the bleached oil! On another note does anyone know how long wax finish lasts? I know your supposed to oil you cue every 6 months or so but what about wax?

The deep yellow colour you get on old cues is strange... If it was just a piece of wood i would say "it has a lovely aged yellow colour", but i don;t like it on cues! Suppose thats just me being strange!

[ChatLag]

Yes, it was a false friend with the bleached oil. That is how it is called in German...
I should have looked it up before being a bighead...

[ADR147]

Can you share more of this fact? I have been told by 2 top cue makers that as long as you use raw linseed oil and NOT the boiled one your shaft wont get too yellow over time. Thanks

whatever you do it will yellow over time. wood ages.