If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Nice work Mike, improves the look as well. I have never been a fan of the brass. I also feel that for a center joint the American cue makers have some of the best joints around. I much prefer phenolic type materials over metal any day. The feel is much closer to wood.
My own cue uses the 3/8-10 flat face where most of the contact is wood on wood with the LBM ring for strength, It retains the feel very well.
Good luck with the cues.
Nice work Mike, improves the look as well. I have never been a fan of the brass. I also feel that for a center joint the American cue makers have some of the best joints around. I much prefer phenolic type materials over metal any day. The feel is much closer to wood.
My own cue uses the 3/8-10 flat face where most of the contact is wood on wood with the LBM ring for strength, It retains the feel very well.
Good luck with the cues.
hear what you're saying. i've long been a fan of wood to wood contact.
Mike,
I've ran your new joint demo several times and I like it. One thing not clear to me is the "one turn, it's locked". Does this mean that you can't over-tighten it, that there is a built in "stop". Also, the wood to wood contact must be equal to the brass to brass contact or the wood contact would be stressed(or compressed)? I hope you know what I mean.
The bitter taste of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
I just got back from vacation today and found this new thread. I quickly emailed Mike to see if the cue I ordered a couple of weeks ago will have the new AirTwist joint. I received a response back within 5 minutes confirming that it will. Now that's great customer service.
I think it's more than 10 posts, but it relies also on your expertise as well, IMO. I've now more than 1000 posts and have, as yet, never managed to post a pic!!! Now, if you do succeed, not only will I be delighted to look at your pics of your new cue but I will also marvel at your expertise with just a tinge of jealousy. Lol Please share if you can do it, pretty please.
Mike,
I've ran your new joint demo several times and I like it. One thing not clear to me is the "one turn, it's locked". Does this mean that you can't over-tighten it, that there is a built in "stop". Also, the wood to wood contact must be equal to the brass to brass contact or the wood contact would be stressed(or compressed)? I hope you know what I mean.
yes. i know what you are trying to say. i'll try to explain, and apologise if i state the obvious in trying to clear up your questions.
first, the wood is level with brass. that's a critical design feature, and must be fitted perfectly to achieve the end result.
the result is the wood will not be compressed or stressed in any way that could weaken it or compromise the join, but will be in contact at the same time as the brass.
the brass faces give strength to stop the join being over tightened in much the same way as any join.
my join faces come together after approximately one turn. very fast, very smooth, but this is merely a convenience as opposed to making the join 'lock' different to others. it's just cool....
the real innovation is fitting the join faces inside the wood to very accurate engineered tolerances, allowing a perfect wood to wood contact around the join, bringing a nicer solid 'feel'.
the same result of improved 'feel' by adding wood to wood contact could be achieved with any type of join, but i believe combining speed with improved 'feel' makes this join superior to any other i have ever seen or used.
and of course the vacuum effect is another feature that is....well.... cool
Comment