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I walked into a pawnshop type establishment and saw a BCE Heritage 3 piece cue on sale there. Picked it up and felt the shaft and it was heavily varnished. Not that I was planning to buy that cue because the asking price was ridiculous, but if I did, I was wondering how to remove the varnish from that cue and what do I do after that to give it a nicer feel?
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briefly, use 400 or finer sandpaper to remove the varnish (only takes 5 mins) and then use linseed oil to feed the wood and then coat it in hard beeswax if you want ...Originally Posted by Chunqx View Post
did it fairly recently to my pool cue and I'm a DIY-a-phobe but dead easy even for me ... and my cue is soooo much better ... -
spend more on a proper cue - you don't know what you will find when you remove the varnish.Comment
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guess is depends on whether the varnish is transparent or not LOL ... if it's transparent you can see exactly what'll you'll get ...Originally Posted by ADR147 View Post
the cue I use for UK 8ball pool is so much better having removed the varnish ... before it was sticky, sometimes less, sometimes more - difficult to judge a "feel" shot ... now it always slides over my bridge hand perfectly ...
I actually used 600 (fine) sandpaper thinking the finer the better but I think I was wrong, so I roughed it up a bit with 400 (medium) ... imo, you want a smooth but matt finish, not a smooth and shiny finish ...Comment
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Therein lies the problem. Decent cues are hard to find in Oz. Perhaps I should say, hard to find for a decent price. The BCE heritage probably sells for 50 pounds new in the UK, this pawn shop is trying to sell this used cue with a few scratches in the butt for AUD$300 which is about 140 pounds.. The markups here are unbelievable, not only for snooker cues but when I was looking to buy some Loomis fishing rods from the US, it was 30-40% cheaper to but it from a retailer from the US and have it shipped than to buy the exact same model locally.Originally Posted by ADR147 View PostComment
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What he meant was that the wood could have been stained. Like black stained on maple to make it look like ebony and such, which could be hard to tell sometimes.Originally Posted by DandyA View PostComment
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Should the butt be sanded also or just the shaft?Comment
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I sanded the varnish only off the shaft of the cue I use for pool, my £20 Cannon Scorpion ... I can't really see a reason to sand the butt cos it feels fine as it is - the shaft needs to slide over your bridge, the butt you just grip ...Originally Posted by JohnBray View Post
4 years after playing both snooker and pool with my Cannon, I treated myself to a £120 Welsh Dragon which I now use for snooker and has no varnish on it at all ... both shafts now (after removing the varnish from the Cannon) slide just as well over my bridge and the butts just don't matter ...
they play a wee bit differently but they both work just as well in their respective games (pool and snooker) ...
and as poolq implied, taking the varnish off the butt might open a can of worms - it's almost certainly paint underneath, not ebony! wouldn't be so black if it was ebony would it?Comment
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never sand ALL the varinsh off just get the finest sandpaper and lightly rub over but keep checking to see if its still got a coat of varnish."Play The Game By The Rules, Or Play a Different Game" anon:snooker:Comment
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sanding cues
you dont have to use sandpaper just use a scourer what you use for washing up dont take of as much and cleans at the same time then use 1 of the oils mentioned in other threads like dave coutes or mike woolridge or the linseed oil ,i mixed linseed and danish oil to try it seems okComment
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