My New Cue Arrived

[vainparasite]

Keith,

I had put off the re-tipping, hoping I had one of their good tips, but obviously not. It started to unravel last night, so there is an Elkmaster being compressed as I write this. I will give it a try this evening. With the tips a hit and miss as you say, I can’t imagine MC using one that has such a short life. Maybe it’s me, but using a more expensive layered tip, would make more sense. If a customer does not like the feel of the layered, they could always change it. This would be due to preference as compared to substandard material being used. I don’t think it is acceptable, to require customers to perform repairs on a new product. If that practice is acceptable for the company, it makes me have questions in other areas of production.

Mike

I changed my tip for an O min laminated from welsh pool supplies, it said they are made by talisman and i only paid £4 inc postage. it made me more confident as the one on previously went out of shape quickly every time i played with it. The o min played consistently and once id hit a few balls then shaped it i never had to touch it again. I will put one on my next cue

[Mike P]

I put a compressed Elk Master on. It feels like a good one so far. I have been using a talisman either soft or medium for the last number(10?) of years. I am just experimenting more out of curiosity than being unsatisfied with the layered tip. Like you said, the maintenance performed after the initial break in period (2 hrs) is the only time you will have to shape the tip. I do find that they get glazed over, so a rasp or Brad Scuffer comes in handy. They also play consistently through their whole life, which is quite some time. That is why I mentioned MC using a layer tip, it is an all round good tip and more bang for the buck. The only negative comment towards layered tips, is the proportion of glue compared to leather, that is in contact with the cue ball. I think with fewer layers, this problem is eliminated. How many layers does the Wooldridge tip have?

Mike

[eaoin11]

according to trevor, the joints weigh approx 1.5 Oz

but this depends on who's joints you use, i.e H&O joints would probably weigh more.

Cheers! I like light cues in the 16.5-17oz region and have been thinking about weight distribution in 3/4 and center join cues.

I ordered a center join cue about two months ago and was worried that I might not be able to get my weight range without the balance point going too far forward (i.e past the 18inch mark). But apparently that won't be a prob.

[khizzy]

i received my new TW cue today,its amazingly reactive,the feel is superb and the finish the best i've seen.im so glad i went to trevor for my cue.

thanks trevor and everyone on the forum who have recommended me to get a TW.

[noel]

i received my new TW cue today,its amazingly reactive,the feel is superb and the finish the best i've seen.im so glad i went to trevor for my cue.

thanks trevor and everyone on the forum who have recommended me to get a TW.

Khizzy Has a New Baby!!...
say mate, you cause me to remember when my MW cue was delivered on my doorstep...
I screwed it together checking the fit, hefting the weight, then I checked the shaft, the ferrule and tip,
the joinery and overall finish... then I hit a few gentle shots, then... and so on...
I wonder if there is an equivalent to an APGAR score * for new cues?
ADR147... what would your checklist be?


Cheers khiz... make tons!


=o)

Noel



*
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apgar_score

[khizzy]

haha almost made my first ton with it today,i'll get it tomorrow.

[Wayne G]

Compressed Elkmaster???

Keith,

I had put off the re-tipping, hoping I had one of their good tips, but obviously not. It started to unravel last night, so there is an Elkmaster being compressed as I write this. I will give it a try this evening. With the tips a hit and miss as you say, I can’t imagine MC using one that has such a short life. Maybe it’s me, but using a more expensive layered tip, would make more sense. If a customer does not like the feel of the layered, they could always change it. This would be due to preference as compared to substandard material being used. I don’t think it is acceptable, to require customers to perform repairs on a new product. If that practice is acceptable for the company, it makes me have questions in other areas of production.

Mike

Why and what is compressing your Elkmaster tip? I've never heard of doing that. Enlighten me please.
Thanks, Wayne G.

[Mike P]

khizzy,
Congratulations are in order. Glad to hear that you are pleased and many tons are in the works. I am quite impressed with Trevor’s work and hope to own one of his, some day.
Mike

[Mike P]

Why and what is compressing your Elkmaster tip? I've never heard of doing that. Enlighten me please.
Thanks, Wayne G.

Before installing a single layer tip I always put them between two steel plates and then place them in a vise. I clamp them as tight as possible and leave them over night. By doing this it cuts down on the re-shaping of the tip after break in. Also there is very little break in period because the tip has been compressed close to its maximum. I find that most single layered tips play their best, just before you have to change them. By compressing them first, you seem to have them at their best for a longer period of time. Without a vise an inexpensive C clamp would work.

Mike

[Wayne G]

Before installing a single layer tip I always put them between two steel plates and then place them in a vise. I clamp them as tight as possible and leave them over night. By doing this it cuts down on the re-shaping of the tip after break in. Also there is very little break in period because the tip has been compressed close to its maximum. I find that most single layered tips play their best, just before you have to change them. By compressing them first, you seem to have them at their best for a longer period of time. Without a vise an inexpensive C clamp would work.

Mike

Mike,
Thanks for the reply, I now understand what you're doing. Is this technique widely practiced by others or is it something that you've discovered? This may be a dumb question but why not just use a harder tip to begin with.
Thanks, Wayne G.

[Mike P]

I have been tinkering with cues for some time now. Years back I bought a lathe and started working on tips, ferrules and sneaky petes. After reshaping an Elk Master once too often, I remembered some oldtimers compressing their tips with a hammer before installing them. One thing I remembered was they were very careful to have the head square to the tip. I tried the hammer but it was a hit and miss, so changed to the vise, I had on hand. I recall reading that a number of pool players compress their tips Efren Reyes for one. Last I read was that EM milk dud tips were the rave. I will try one next time I change the tip on my JP.

I find that a one piece leather tip plays better after it has been compressed, either before (vise...) or after (cue ball). When the tip isn’t compressed first, you are using a tip who’s density(?) is changing as you are using it. My feeling is instead of using a harder tip I am able to keep the consistency of the soft tip, but firm it up, if that makes any sense.

Mike

[Wayne G]

Mike,
That makes sense to my reasoning. Kudos for searching for that better mousetrap. Post your findings when you try the EM milk dud tip.
Thanks, Wayne G.

[satanist2001]

hi!!!

hey mike,
where did u order ur cue???
can i know of some reliable online snooker dealers who actually ship internationally to singapore????
added objective of course is a good price..
rdgs,
mel

[willytan]

hey mike,
where did u order ur cue???
can i know of some reliable online snooker dealers who actually ship internationally to singapore????
added objective of course is a good price..
rdgs,
mel

Call or sms me
I have a frd who is importing & exporting cue locally.
If not msn or email me @ tanjweeloy@yahoo.com

[bouncer]

go tpy snooker zone got sell master cue ...much more cheaper then u order online...some more u can custom made your own spec ...haha