curious about why people like splices/veneer?

[eaoin11]

I mentioned the weight thing because if I were to order a 3/4 cue jointed at 16 inches that's what I would do.

But splices for art's sake are fine by me too.

[poolqjunkie]

I mentioned the weight thing because if I were to order a 3/4 cue jointed at 16 inches that's what I would do.

But splices for art's sake are fine by me too.

Did not mean to start any argument with you or anyone really. Just wanted to learn more about cue and expressing my opinion that's all.

Hope you did not take offense that I disagreed with you.

[eaoin11]

No worries mate

To see what an ounce does to a cue's balance point I guess you could start with a lighter cue at 17ounces, tape a lead weight to the butt and see what happens. I think it would be significant.

I suppose the maths gets fairly elaborate at times for makers taking cue orders that specify splices, a particular weight and balance point, all whilst keeping the weight 'natural'.

[Kolya]

Well I am not offended and certainly do not want to give that impression and would certainly agree that different types of woods have different densities and therefore different weights which affect the overall weight and balance of the cue however I also believe that the primary reason for the the many types of coloured splices and veneers are purely cosmetic (could be wrong though!)

[eaoin11]

I also believe that the primary reason for the the many types of coloured splices and veneers are purely cosmetic (could be wrong though!)

Yep, I agree. I'm sure that is the case for most people and I haven't said otherwise.

[trevs1]

Trevor,
If a customer orders a plain 3/4 long butt ebony cue of 16.5 oz. and he does not want to pay anything extra to get any additional splices.
Can you for example drill out a bit more wood when you install the joint in the ebony butt, or even insert a lighter wood in the core to reduce its weight?
How about make it as a one piece and then install the joint?
What I am getting at is that such a cue can be made without the use of secondary splices, is that right?

Hi again poolqjunkie,

To build a 3/4 long butt cue, with plain ebony butt, it would be more or less impossible to get it done to any "normal" specs and have it finish at 16.5oz's.

So, as you rightly point out, to get it anywhere near that, you'd have to core out the butt, or a better (and a more likely) to achieve it would be to make that cue with a laminated butt section, whereby the ebony is spliced over an ash or maple core, then turned round again to appear solid ebony.

This is pretty much THE only way to get anywhere near the weight you mention.

Naturally, it goes without saying that if a cue is made as a one piece, then converted to 3/4 later, that this would also enable you to have more control over the final weight, as there is no use of 'solid' turned ebony.

[poolqjunkie]

Hi again poolqjunkie,


So, as you rightly point out, to get it anywhere near that, you'd have to core out the butt, or a better (and a more likely) to achieve it would be to make that cue with a laminated butt section, whereby the ebony is spliced over an ash or maple core, then turned round again to appear solid ebony.

.

Thanks again Trevor.

Will the method you mentioned leaves 4 lines showing the splices on the ebony butt?

In American pool cue it is quite popular now to bore out the round ebony and then insert and glue a piece of maple in the center. This method helps to prevent warpage and can greatly reduce the weight of ebony used on a cue.

Do snooker makers use this method?

[RGCirencester]

1 Piece cues are made up of 4 ebony splices glued onto an ash / maple shaft that runs the length of the cue, so it would look no different. I find it hard to tell where the joins in the splices are on a well made cue.