Some questions about finish...

[KeithinFrance]

I'm saving UP for one Keith!

Currently using a MW maple (which I love especially because as it avoids whisker pluck).



=o)

Noel

PS. Hope you're feeling well mate and just so you know, I haven't forgotten about the CT for Margaret!

Good idea Noel, you'll get the 'feel' of ash and the whisker safety in one go, pal.

Thanks for the PS, it's kind of you. The knee's still playing up all the time, but hey!, and it's nice of you to kep CT on your mind - she'll be thrilled!

[RGCirencester]

I wouldn't think submerging a cue butt in oil is a terribly good idea. The depth to which it penetrates relies on how dry the wood is and the viscosity of the oil or viscous penetration depth. How long would you usually leave a linseed oil finish to cure? It should be something like 24 hours between coats with three days (!) to cure after the last coat. If it's a better oil finish you're after try a different drying oil. Tung oil arguably provides a better and more protective finish than Linseed and doesn't provide as much colour or gum up in the same way as linseed. You could use it neat or use Danish oil, the main constituent of which is Tung oil - 4 hours between coats and 24 hours to cure (depending on climatic conditions).

To better improve oil penetration for the first coat or two you can thin it with a solvent, I'd use white spirits. New wood shouldn't really need any more than three coats with either Linseed or Tung oil. The first one being say a 1:1 dilution, the next being 2:1 oil to solvent, the last being neat oil.

Grape seed oil, seen in trendy supermarkets, is also a drying oil. I haven't as yet got round to experimenting with it though. I know its been used to treat things like wooden chopping boards since its edible. I'd imagine you would have to check the label before buying though to ensure your lovely supermarket hasn't diluted it with veg or sunflower oil .

Heres an interesting post I was thinking a while ago about linseed being the preferred oil for cues. Because on furniture tung oil is considered much more suitable for objjects that will be touched a lot I believe. But the consensus I found was that linseed gives the best finish for a cue. Anyone else have any opinions on this?

[poolqjunkie]

Good point, I have used Tung oil for some old Brunswick pool cues before. They worked very well.

Why is linseed chosen or preferred over Tung oil, I have no idea, any one, please?

[RGCirencester]

Some people can have allergic reactions to tung (i believe tung is a nut) but apart from this I would like to know

http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...ead.php?t=9981
I read this a while ago when I first wondered why linseed is preferred for cues

[fredkite]

Can anything be added to linseed oil to lessen the smell?

[eaoin11]

Haven't tried tung oil but have used Danish oil on a cheap cue, the cheif constituent of which is tung (as said above).

The danish oil gave a hard, smooth finish and might have stiffened the shaft (the label said that danish oil could penetrate and strengthen the wood) but to be honest I thought the end result was not dissimilar from varnish.

It seemed to get dirty and sticky very quickly indeed.

[poolqjunkie]

Haven't tried tung oil but have used Danish oil on a cheap cue, the cheif constituent of which is tung (as said above).

The danish oil gave a hard, smooth finish and might have stiffened the shaft (the label said that danish oil could penetrate and strengthen the wood) but to be honest I thought the end result was not dissimilar from varnish.

It seemed to get dirty and sticky very quickly indeed.

Do you mean to say that you can get the Tung oil to feel and look like Varnish?

[huy]

i've read about linseed oil is chosen for feeding/nourishing wood; it's not primarily used as a finish.

May anyone confirm that please?

[eaoin11]

I can only say that danish oil seems to have a finish like varnish. I don't know much about tung oil, and only learned from the earlier post that tung was the main constituent of danish oil. I wouldn't recommend danish oil for the shaft to be honest but don't know about tung oil.

I have used linseed oil to finish a maple cue and the finish turned out really well. I used 50% turpentine to thin the linseed but I'm a little suspicious of using white spirits with linseed now, because the cue didn't play the same at all. It was quite responsive prior to applying the oil but became a little lifeless afterwards.

[poolqjunkie]

So, you applied the diluted linseed to the cue and it became lifeless?
Did you apply your oil many times?

[ChatLag]

I have tried Tung oil but it smells awful. Unfortunately this smell remains a long time.
I used raw linseed oil. I found a version which is bleached without being refined. Smells less than normal linseed oil and does not add color to the shaft.
For the last finish I use linseed stand oil. It is like honey, dries slowly and leaves a nice surface.

[bonoman1970]

I have tried Tung oil but it smells awful. Unfortunately this smell remains a long time.
I used raw linseed oil. I found a version which is bleached without being refined. Smells less than normal linseed oil and does not add color to the shaft.
For the last finish I use linseed stand oil. It is like honey, dries slowly and leaves a nice surface.

Whats the linseed stand oil like to use?
Is it quite shiny and does it get sticky and what about the drying time of it?
Just curious...
:snooker:

[ChatLag]

Whats the linseed stand oil like to use?
Is it quite shiny and does it get sticky and what about the drying time of it?
Just curious...
:snooker:

It is easy to apply with a piece of cloth. It dries VERY slowly but the surface is shiny and hard. A bit like glass. As long as it is wet it slowly runs down the shaft so you have to wipe away the excessing oil.

[bonoman1970]

It is easy to apply with a piece of cloth. It dries VERY slowly but the surface is shiny and hard. A bit like glass. As long as it is wet it slowly runs down the shaft so you have to wipe away the excessing oil.

Does it fill in all the imperfections in the wood like small holes,dents,the grain ect....like varnish would but without the stickiness?
:snooker:

[ChatLag]

It will fill just minor imperfections. If they are a bit deeper you have to apply the oil maybe two or three times.
But it is not a grain filler.