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  • #1

    making a cue smoother

    Hi everyone, i have recently started playing snooker and now play it quite regularly. so i have just joined this forum and i decided to get my own cue. I have read the thread about sanding and that but i was wondering, if i put linseed oil on the cue do i cover the whole shaft in it including the butt because i have never seen a cue with oil on and i didnt know whether it affected the colour of the shaft.

    sorry for such a long post.
    cheers
    Tags: None
  • #2
    First of all, welcome to TSF, I hope you'll enjoy yourself.

    Answer to the question is yes, you can put oil on the butt of your cue. Long term the oil treatment will darken the colour of your cue, which should give it a nice rich colour.

    What kind of cue have you decided to buy if it's not too intrusive a question?

    Have a nice time on TSF!
    Il n'y a pas de problemes; il n'y a que des solutions qu'on n'a pas encore trouvées.

    "Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit; wisdom is knowing not to put in a fruit salad." Brian O'Driscoll.

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    • #3
      I think you can use grain filler. Not sure what that is or how to use it.

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      • #4
        If your buying a new cue surely you do not need to worry?
        What is your budget may I ask?
        sigpic A Truly Beakerific Long Pot Sir!

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        • #5
          thanks for the replies.
          well i haven't been playing long and i don't play for a team i just go down on the weekend so i didnt really want to spend alot of money on a cue yet. My mate sold me his cannon diamond 3/4 cue for £5 so i have been using that but needed a case and they aren't cheap so i bought one off ebay and they were selling it with a cue which was a 3/4 Stanley cue with a 6" extension. i haven't used it yet but it's got varnish on and i want to make it smooth. Should i sand the butt or will that scratch the paint off?

          thanks again

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          • #6
            Jamie, you could sand it but trying to remove the varnish consistently that way isn't easy. If you really want to rid of that varnish you'll have to use a brush on stripper, wait for it to work its magic and scrape it all off. Though I'd advise you only strip the area in contact with your bridge hand upwards, not the spliced area or butt. Once done you may sand the stripped area, though try to remove as little material as possible. Use fine grade wet and dry or micron burnishing film (amazing stuff!):
            http://www.cousinsuk.com/catalog/7/1343/1561.aspx

            Ash has very open pours due to its grain structure, these are what you fill with grain filler and is what produces the black feathery marks on a cue (ie dark grain filler) and shouldn't be necessary.

            Once you've prepped the shaft clean it with white spirits to remove dust etc and re-finish the shaft. Linseed oil is a popular choice though I'd plump for Tung or Danish oil. Thin the first coat 1:1 with white spirit, leave 4-8 hours between coats and 24-36 hours to cure after you've applied 2 or 3 coats.

            On the other hand you could just wait until you can afford a properly finished cue

            Steve.

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