Minimum Cue weights?

[RGCirencester]

I have been searching for a while now and although having found references to this topic in a few threads would like clarification of something I was wondering about.

What is the minimum weight for various types of cues?

In particular I was thinking of:
A plain ebony butted 1 piece
A plain ebony butted 3/4 cue with a solid ebony butt
then the above two cues with 4 secondary splices of a lighter wood like, for instance, padauk.

In this thread this is touched apon but the example stated is for a long butted 3/4 cue
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...t=17133&page=2

[thai_son22]

we were disscussing this thread together and i too have a question if anyone here can answer.

if there are 2 cues made to 17oz and they were same length etc.

cue 1 is spliced with a heavier wood e.g ebony butt.

cue 2 is spliced with a lighter wood/s.

would that mean the shaft on cue 2 requires a denser/stiffer wood if these 2 words can be used together.

that would make cue 1 whippier assuming this is the case.

please help

[Krypton]

we were disscussing this thread together and i too have a question if anyone here can answer.

if there are 2 cues made to 17oz and they were same length etc.

cue 1 is spliced with a heavier wood e.g ebony butt.

cue 2 is spliced with a lighter wood/s.

would that mean the shaft on cue 2 requires a denser/stiffer wood if these 2 words can be used together.

that would make cue 1 whippier assuming this is the case.

please help

To your example, I think there are more possibilities:
The good cue maker will know what he has to do to end up with a weight of the given 17oz approximately.

He could make the but of lighter wood longer than the one he'd make out of heavy ebony, he can - as long as the shaft runs throught the butt to the end of the cue - change the thickness of the splicing.

All this and simular construction details will end up with a cue with same outer specs (weight, measurements in length, butt diameter, tip size) and still different wood density.

Then, this will need a lot of experience, so the cue will still be well balanced.

I dunno if that is correct, just an idea. Ask a cue manufactor.

[karkit1028]

To thai_son22:
Referring to your example, apart from the density of the shaft, there are some other things that would affect the weight of a cue.
For instance, tapering, butt diameter, adding "metal", normal butt or round butt, presence of S.D. joint, tip size and the length of the splices.
So, ASSUMING the two shafts are IDENTICAL, by playing around with the above variables, it is still possible to get two 17oz cues spliced with different woods to have similar character/playability.

[eaoin11]

Butt diameter is another thing they could vary to adjust the final weight of the cue. A 17oz 3/4 cue that I ordered started as a one peice at first because I switched from center joint to 3/4 while it was being made.

That cue weighed 15.25 oz before the 3/4 join was fitted,
plain ebony with short butt and around 29mm diameter. If it were 28mm that would reduce the weight quite a bit more I think.

If it had been left as a one peice it would have needed to be weighted up to 16.5-17 in order to have a good balance point between 17-18 inches (Trevor White recommends 16-18 I think). Any lighter and the balance point would have been too far forward, or you would need a shaft of lower density.

So, maybe this answers your question for one peice cues RG? If it had been a normal 3/4 with same specs and joint it would have finished a bit heavier.