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Crack on CUE! anyone can help?

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  • #16
    Hi guys,

    thanks for your advice! I just came back from a short trip. I will try to apply some glue on it but if to sand it, will it spoil the splice of the shaft?

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    • #17
      You only need very fine paper 1000 grade should do it

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      • #18
        Crack on CUE! anyone can help?

        Sure!
        Put it back in the bag and get the hell out of my club!


        =o<

        Noel

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        • #19
          Originally Posted by s3anchew View Post
          Hi guys,

          thanks for your advice! I just came back from a short trip. I will try to apply some glue on it but if to sand it, will it spoil the splice of the shaft?
          I would recommend something very thin, so it can go into the crack without making a big mess.
          Here is what I do, and it worked in my case.
          I used something called "Hot stuff" and I applied it with a syringe.
          You can let it set quicker with an accelerator so it would not spill all over the place. This glue has the viscocity of water.
          But you can always clean up the mess with a super glue solvent.
          The glue if applied right should not affect the splice.
          I would wet sand the glue with some fine sand paper after it is cured and set, may be fill it up with a black sharpie if it looks white.
          If your cue has no varnish, the crack will look a bit more shinny but it is very unnoticable.
          You can wax it or use some shellac or something to sort of make the surrounding area more shinny so it is less unnoticable. But these stuff will wear off unless it is a thick lacquar type of finish.
          I would like to hear how others handle this type of repair. Thank you.
          www.AuroraCues.com

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          • #20
            depending on where you got the cue and what make it is theres a good chance that you can take it back and get it repaired for free. Your not really ment to do it but you can tap the cue on the side when holding it to see if you have a rattle or the best way is to tell from striking the ball if you have a rattle or not.
            Like i said most decent places will repair your cue or sort out a replacement, i had a similar problem and took the option for a repair, cant tell now that there was anything wrong with it.

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            • #21
              I think the common consensus is to glue the crack. This must be done properly, using a good glue to avoid a repeat occuence. A clear epoxy glue would do the trick and after a good sanding and laquer one would never be able to detect the crack again. The when applying the glue it may be acceptable to just widen the crack with a knife at the surface in order to allow the glue to penetrate as far as possible into the crack and like I saqid before a good sanding and laquer would cover any trace of a glueing job. I know cos I did it and the cue I did it on was a Joe davis club cue. ten years since and have had no problem with it with regular use

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              • #22
                I think some people might opt for wood filler as well, although I have never tried to do it that way.
                www.AuroraCues.com

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                • #23
                  I had E-Mailed Mike Wooldridge on this very same condition, and he replied as follows:

                  to be honest, it's an ongoing problem for all i think. i have these problems myself sometimes.

                  it's highly unlikely these splits will cause any real problems, and are merely just surface checks, albeit they may extend into the wood some way.

                  despite the best intentions - well seasoned wood, kept in a stable environment etc., it is something that will randomly happen. particularly when going overseas. climate change etc..

                  interestingly enough, you can find 'faults' like this on many cues, often hidden underneath lacquers/varnishes.

                  it's easy to 'fix' though. best thing to do is leave the cue to settle in it's new environment. let it move and 'split' as much as it wants. a good few weeks at least.

                  then repair it with glue and dust. simple way, run some superglue into the crack, take some fine sandpaper, 320 grit, and sand lightly up and down the butt over the crack. dust fills hole and sticks to glue. repeat until crack is invisible. then oil it.

                  sorted :-)



                  like i said in previous emails. often these splits are hidden underneath
                  lacquer on cheaper cues.

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