What is the best maple you can get?

[j6uk]

What is defined as good or bad maple., how is it graded?

Is there a good site that explains the cue woods?

[thai_son22]

What is defined as good or bad maple., how is it graded?

Is there a good site that explains the cue woods?

depends on how u like your cue. if you are using a maple cue and like how it plays, then thats the kind of maple for you.

[j6uk]

Hmm, so you don't know?!

[ADR147]

it is not important - you need wood with good playing characteristics and the best way to get it is to ask a good cue maker to choose it for you!

[thai_son22]

Hmm, so you don't know?!

yes i do know, and the answer i gave i believe is right. aesthetics have ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with playability. i saw your tony glover thread. he talks about the whitest maple. Im pretty sure he and any other good cue maker can find maple which isnt whitest and has splenty of spoldges on it which will play as good if not better than the whitest.

and like i said, its about how you like your maple. some like it stiff, some like it stiff but on the whippy side.

no such thing as whats best.

[j6uk]

Three questions:

What is the best maple you can get?

What is defined as good or bad maple., how is it graded?

Is there a good site that explains the cue woods?

Better to have conventional or vacuumed dried maple?


:snooker:If you don't know the answers there really is no need to respond.

[perpetualboredom]

Two people have answered your question perfectly, are you just trying to wind people up?

Maybe this would help? http://tinyurl.com/le6yer

[j6uk]

yes i do know, and the answer i gave i believe is right. aesthetics have ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with playability. i saw your tony glover thread. he talks about the whitest maple. Im pretty sure he and any other good cue maker can find maple which isnt whitest and has splenty of spoldges on it which will play as good if not better than the whitest.

and like i said, its about how you like your maple. some like it stiff, some like it stiff but on the whippy side.

no such thing as whats best.

Hi,

Yes in a way your right. My last cue was Parris paragon and now I use a £10 maple off the rack, it sounds awful when you hit the ball and playing at distance with side is guess work, sure, I know could get use to a broom-stick if i put my mind to it. But right now I'm sending monies and i now what I want.

J6

[trevs1]

Three questions:

What is the best maple you can get?

What is defined as good or bad maple., how is it graded?

Is there a good site that explains the cue woods?

Better to have conventional or vacuumed dried maple?


:snooker:If you don't know the answers there really is no need to respond.

I don't think the responses you've given to people who have taken the time to reply to your questions is the best way to get others to offer their views also.

But, to give you a clearer idea of answers to your questions in a simplified way, here you are...

1) Firstly, the maple used in cue manufacture would be 'hard' or 'Rock' maple, as this gives the correct characteristics for a cue shaft. The best maple you can get would be clear of any large or unsightly marks, with no obvious flaws or blemishes to its appearance, and, wood which is fairly stiff and strong.

2) Good maple would be that which is closer to the above points, and bad maple would be timber which is further away from the above points.

3) Do not know of ANY site which clearly defines the grading employed by cue makers, or, what maple/ash is better or offers an advantage in the production of cues.

4) The drying process has far less to do with the overall performance of any cue than other, more significant factors. It's pretty much fair to say that as long as the timber is dry enough, it's dry enough.

Naturally,there are many many points and issues which can be factored into the selection of timber, but it's not so easy to convey all of that via a forum, and quite frankly, probably isn't necessary to do it either.

[ADR147]

i liked my answer better trevor !!!

[j6uk]

Thanks for all of your input.. As you know buying a decent cue these days, with the price of wood going up, cue craft standards on the down (unless your a pro) and cues being made in china.

So my technical empowerment questions are for a reason.

Iv had a nightmare trying get a one piece made to 60". And you know they all said "Oh yeah no problem"..Had one made by Parris and Craftmans. Parris was supposed to make one from scratch but just extended a 58" and that was a bodge-job. Craftmans sent, what was suposed to be a pro-shaft, this dodgy wood, club cue like,was lacquered to hell and couldn't push it through my bridge hand.

So this is my last try, don't want to wait another 3-6 months only to be palmed off with another duffer!

Regards

[RGCirencester]

Thanks for all of your input.. As you know buying a decent cue these days, with the price of wood going up, cue craft standards on the down (unless your a pro) and cues being made in china.

So my technical empowerment questions are for a reason.

Iv had a nightmare trying get a one piece made to 60". And you know they all said "Oh yeah no problem"..Had one made by Parris and Craftmans. Parris was supposed to make one from scratch but just extended a 58" and that was a bodge-job. Craftmans sent, what was suposed to be a pro-shaft, this dodgy wood, club cue like,was lacquered to hell and couldn't push it through my bridge hand.

So this is my last try, don't want to wait another 3-6 months only to be palmed off with another duffer!

Regards

Pretty sure craftsman isnt laquered. The wax they use however I have heard many people say is sticky on your bridge.

What exactly was wrong with the shaft of the craftsman? When you say "dodgy"?


Personally ADR's answer is exactly how I feel about all this AAA AA etc. idea. Just telling a cuemaker you want "AAA" shaft isn't really going to tell them anything. If however you say, I would like bright white maple that is stiff/whippy etc. you will stand a much better chance of getting what you want. Personally when I ordered my cue I made no demands on chevrons etc. on the shaft but left it up to the cuemaker to choose the best piece of wood for me. Doesn't matter if it looks like a tree trunk, it could still be the best playing shaft that cuemaker has ever come across.

If you really want a cue that feels right for you wouldn't it be better to visit somewhere like Greenbaize or Craftsman in person. try a number of cues and choose the one that feels best?

[unclevit]

What is defined as good or bad maple., how is it graded?

Is there a good site that explains the cue woods?

Myself and friends normally cut short on getting a good maple wood for shaft. We go to different good clubs, pick their 1 piece maple rack cues that have been in service for years, but still looking good and straight. Buy them at a very cheap price (US$10-15 most) then pass the cues to our cuemaker(s), who will use those maple shafts to start a new custom project, mostly in 3/4 size. The shaft is well matured, and a good guarantee of its age. Last week, I bought a Maple rack cue, used for some 3 years, but still in top, straight condition. Passed it to my cuemaker for a 3/4, 8 splices work. Will be a good one I am sure. We live in Thailand where cost of good-skill cuemaker is still lower.

[eaoin11]

I've been tempted to do the same. Here in Japan the old rack cues are of fairly high quality, and sometimes you find one that is very responsive. The problem is that they are american style 2pce cues.

[unclevit]

I've been tempted to do the same. Here in Japan the old rack cues are of fairly high quality, and sometimes you find one that is very responsive. The problem is that they are american style 2pce cues.

I am quite lucky here in Bangkok. My club (runs by a national coach) offers rack cues of Omin brand only. Mostly Ash with nice lines. Watching a few that are already 3+ years old. Trying to buy in to use the aged shafts for my new custom projects