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  • #16
    [QUOTE=RGCirencester;427103]Stu at Greenbaize has some very nice cues around that budget.
    http://www.greenbaize.com/gbl.htm

    I would agree with this choice for the price of the cues at stu's shop you can't really go wrong alot of players round my way use these cues including me and all the ones i have seen are quality cues. Stu is also a really good guy very helpful i was at his shop the other day went to get a new case, but he didn't have the one i wanted unfortunately. Not a wasted journey though as my mate came away with a new cue and case.

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    • #17
      kjozsa, I hope from all the posts that you've been able to make your mind up. I was in the same position as you a couple of months ago. There's loads of information on the internet about weight, length, etc to help but at the end of the day the cue has to feel right for you. You only find this out by trying a few different ones. One thing is certain for the average player. Paying a huge amount for a John Parris or Trevor White will not make you a great player although if money is no problem it would be great to own one!!
      I decided to go with Mastercraft Eclipse for £130 although all the other cues mentioned in the posts looked great. I opted for the eclipse with a single olivewood splice as I felt that the number of splices didn't make the cue play any better. Some folks incur more costs by going for 4, 8 or more splices to make their cue look really fancy and I guess they get a lot of confidence from owning a great looking cue.
      I've played snooker for many years so I pretty well knew all my measurements etc so I just went for a fairly simple design which I think is nice to look at. If I win the lottery I'll probably buy myself a few of the more expensive cues just for the sake of owning some nice pieces of quality craftmanship

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      • #18
        Yeah these posts actually helped a lot. In the next days/weeks I'll try to get all different cues to try out and especially look for their specs and compare how they feel. Meanwhile I plan to get quote from the crafters mentioned in the thread. I hope I can fix a new cue this way before xmas, but we'll see..

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        • #19
          ahh great, now I have two account activated - one plain and one facebook one.. *sighs*

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          • #20
            I am using a MW black shark, it is very nice. The MW shark 3/4 joint has been changed to conceal joint, and look like a one peice cue.

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            • #21
              Hi, I would like to ask you all also about some cue recommendations. I would like to spend about 150 pounds. From your discussion I understand, that Mastercues or Mike Wooldridge would be the best choice. Could you tell me your opinions also about Craftsman and Peradon cues? Thx

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              • #22
                Originally Posted by Petan View Post
                Hi, I would like to ask you all also about some cue recommendations. I would like to spend about 150 pounds. From your discussion I understand, that Mastercues or Mike Wooldridge would be the best choice. Could you tell me your opinions also about Craftsman and Peradon cues? Thx


                Peradon is a strange fatty shafted and poor quality cue. Craftsman are ok if you like lacquer.. I'm sure you can buy a nice Dufferin for less than 150. Iv had some tones with a Dufferin club cue, mm do like a racker

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                • #23
                  Pm unclevit. He can get u a thai made cue as good or better than the best english cue at 150pounds. I made 2 and have no regrets. Wait til 9nov when i wil post a full report

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                  • #24
                    Originally Posted by sanman View Post
                    Pm unclevit. He can get u a thai made cue as good or better than the best english cue at 150pounds. I made 2 and have no regrets. Wait til 9nov when i wil post a full report
                    Thanks sanman. UT sends best wishes, and now working on a 12-splice for me (hope it looks as good as yours). To email progress of imm. mid Nov. Enjoy your 2 Great Cues
                    It's in the Shaft

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                    • #25
                      Originally Posted by jonnylovessn8ker View Post
                      i believe by saying this, i represent the ppl tsf as well.
                      mike wooldirdge is one of thee Best cuemakers today. no kidding about that (back me up people! :P)
                      yes. his custom cues can be pricey

                      but his sharks are very good.no reason not to get one of those.

                      i personally think you should go for the following:

                      mike wooldidrge shark
                      mastercraft
                      Kjozsa,

                      I agree with this guy. First, buy Mastercraft (Black Prince model) as it is the cheapest you can get from them with your own desired specs (length and weight).

                      Then, after you improved your game, go for MW Shark series. This should be a well planned budget for you.

                      Don't forget to let them decide what type of the joint your 3/4 cue should be and where is the balancing point of the cue (the joint). They know better.

                      Hope this helps.
                      Last edited by brendan147; 12 November 2009, 08:24 AM.
                      My cueing sucks

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                      • #26
                        Thanks brendan, I'm right on this track. I invested another 5 pounds to get the Conquest, and generally would prefer an airlock joint, but I left both this and the balance point decision to the maker.. Now let's fast-forward a month.. and I really hope I'm getting an excellent new cue from the Mastercraft guys.

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                        • #27
                          kjozsa: How can you decide the details of the cue? Can we find different cues (lenght, weight, ferruel size) somewhere in Hungary to test these?

                          (It's funny that I write you in english Do you play at the weekend on the competetion in the Art?)
                          The key is the mental approach!

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                          • #28
                            Originally Posted by kjozsa View Post
                            Thanks brendan, I'm right on this track. I invested another 5 pounds to get the Conquest, and generally would prefer an airlock joint, but I left both this and the balance point decision to the maker.. Now let's fast-forward a month.. and I really hope I'm getting an excellent new cue from the Mastercraft guys.
                            Kjozsa. In my opinion its well worth paying the extra £5 to get the Maple veneer added. Breaks up the plainness of the ebony. Please post your comments when you get your cue.

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                            • #29
                              Originally Posted by edemrulez View Post
                              kjozsa: How can you decide the details of the cue? Can we find different cues (lenght, weight, ferruel size) somewhere in Hungary to test these?

                              (It's funny that I write you in english Do you play at the weekend on the competetion in the Art?)
                              length was the easiest - measured my ideal grips on my current cue.. on weight, I tried 2 other Rileys, a chinese cue of my friend and my coach's cue using plain and with an additional weight added. These cues' tip size was also different so I could make up my mind easily..

                              Tell me if I can help you in any way.. are you in Budapest as well?

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                              • #30
                                I'm thinking about a new cue but I can't decide the details. I want to hold in my hand some kind of, but I don't know where because in the shops, there are only mass produced, standard cues.
                                I live near Budapest, in Jaszbereny. If you play too in the Art this saturday, we can talk...
                                Can I ask you real name? Kojsza?
                                The key is the mental approach!

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