Sticky new cue

[brendan147]

I saw people using extra fine sandpaper, but sanding process should be very slowly, and lightly (don't hold the shaft in your hand while sanding, put it on the table, sand and spin around). Take time. After the varnish is gone, apply little cue oil, leave it for a night or two, then wipe the shaft with soap/warm water. Towel dry.

My mate have sticky and varnished CM1 Smart made in Thailand cue (which is almost triple the price of my CM1 City Boy made in Malaysia). He is definitely not happy with his cue and blaming his poor game due to his badly finished Thailand made cue.

Can you please tell me how can I help him to have a "woody" feeling for his shaft? we try to do it ourselves ya? Thanks

[unclevit]

My mate have sticky and varnished CM1 Smart made in Thailand cue (which is almost triple the price of my CM1 City Boy made in Malaysia). He is definitely not happy with his cue and blaming his poor game due to his badly finished Thailand made cue.

Can you please tell me how can I help him to have a "woody" feeling for his shaft? we try to do it ourselves ya? Thanks

Very easy. You give him your City Boy cue. Or recommend him to buy from Omin's agent there
By the way, where did he get his cue from ?

[brendan147]

Very easy. You give him your City Boy cue. Or recommend him to buy from Omin's agent there
By the way, where did he get his cue from ?

I am serious with my question just now and we want to save his cue so that it can be playable, not for display.

We both buy our cues at the same time @ www.cuestation.com.my. These people, however, don't know how to sell good cues. They only know how to SELL cue.

By the way, not all Thailand made are good. This case is the best example. We know Omin is good, but again, if you have any method to remove and refurnished his CM1 Smart sticky+varnised cue, please let me know.

Thanks.

[unclevit]

I am serious with my question just now and we want to save his cue so that it can be playable, not for display.

We both buy our cues at the same time @ www.cuestation.com.my. These people, however, don't know how to sell good cues. They only know how to SELL cue.

By the way, not all Thailand made are good. This case is the best example. We know Omin is good, but again, if you have any method to remove and refurnished his CM1 Smart sticky+varnised cue, please let me know.

Thanks.

brendan : Sorry, I thought we were having fun on this varnish thing. I owned a BCE Heritage. Varnished, and became very sticky on bridge hand after only 15 minutes of play. I used 2000 grits superfine water sandpaper (sorry if my vocab is wrong) and started to sand the surface slowly, putting the shaft on the table. It took me some 4-5 hours of this manual work (I should not buy the cue in the first place but I was looking for middle joint cue at that time). When the varnish is gone, then I applied very minimal cue oil on the shaft, left dried for 2 days, then clean it with mild soap, and wipe dry. It plays very smoothly ever since. Thailand is in warm climate, so I don't need the cue oil anymore. Try this, I think it will work also for your friend's cue. Or have it sent back to me for UT's re-finish on shaft. He will do it free for your friend. But your friend has to pay round trip postage. Hope this helps, I am sure it will

[brendan147]

brendan : Sorry, I thought we were having fun on this varnish thing. I owned a BCE Heritage. Varnished, and became very sticky on bridge hand after only 15 minutes of play. I used 2000 grits superfine water sandpaper (sorry if my vocab is wrong) and started to sand the surface slowly, putting the shaft on the table. It took me some 4-5 hours of this manual work (I should not buy the cue in the first place but I was looking for middle joint cue at that time). When the varnish is gone, then I applied very minimal cue oil on the shaft, left dried for 2 days, then clean it with mild soap, and wipe dry. It plays very smoothly ever since. Thailand is in warm climate, so I don't need the cue oil anymore. Try this, I think it will work also for your friend's cue. Or have it sent back to me for UT's re-finish on shaft. He will do it free for your friend. But your friend has to pay round trip postage. Hope this helps, I am sure it will

UT's re-finish the shaft for free? How about the butt then? This should be a good news for my friend. Please PM me to discuss more about this.

Thanks for the method, man. God bless you.

[unclevit]

UT's re-finish the shaft for free? How about the butt then? This should be a good news for my friend. Please PM me to discuss more about this.

Thanks for the method, man. God bless you.

UT normally won't do it, but I will ask him as a favor. One cue only. Butt re-finish needs some US$10-15. Send me pictures of the problem cues to get accurate quote, at suvitc dot gmail dot com

[brendan147]

UT normally won't do it, but I will ask him as a favor. One cue only. Butt re-finish needs some US$10-15. Send me pictures of the problem cues to get accurate quote, at suvitc dot gmail dot com

Thanks man. I will ask my friend to send his cue pic to your mail.

[Watford]

'water sandpaper'
Do you mean Wet and Dry?
The black emery stuff.

[unclevit]

'water sandpaper'
Do you mean Wet and Dry?
The black emery stuff.

wet sandpaper. black. sorry about my technical vocab

[brendan147]

wet sandpaper. black. sorry about my technical vocab

Wet sandpaper? You mean you use the finest grade of wood sand paper and get it wet?

[unclevit]

Wet sandpaper? You mean you use the finest grade of wood sand paper and get it wet?

the black surface 2000 grits finest sandpaper. soak in water (just once or twice) during the sanding process. varnish comes off very slowly. in the end you will get a smooth surface shaft. moisted. leave dry for hours, in the shade, before applying small cue oil.
(UT just called. He recommends not to wet the sandpaper as you don't know the wood quality of the shaft. With finest 2000 grits sandpaper, it will take time to rub the varnish out of the surface. Sanding process should be very lightly, and slowly. Feel the surface occasionally during the process, to see the varnish getting thinner and thinner. Do it with shaft laying on a flat surface (table) and turning it around slowly and continuously. I hope I do a correct translation from him)

[sanman]

Wet sandpaper? You mean you use the finest grade of wood sand paper and get it wet?

Emory paper will do cos if you use water on wood sandpaper it will disintergrate. I would advocate fine steel wooll to take of most of the offending layer before finishing of with fine 2000 or 3000 emopry paper(no water please) and then a layer of linseed oil should sort out the problem. I have done it myself and have had no problems.

[brendan147]

Emory paper will do cos if you use water on wood sandpaper it will disintergrate. I would advocate fine steel wooll to take of most of the offending layer before finishing of with fine 2000 or 3000 emopry paper(no water please) and then a layer of linseed oil should sort out the problem. I have done it myself and have had no problems.

Emory paper? WHat is that? Post some pic here mate. Thanks.

[sanman]

Emory paper? WHat is that? Post some pic here mate. Thanks.

panel beaters use that sandpaper when doing car bodyworks

[unclevit]

Emory paper will do cos if you use water on wood sandpaper it will disintergrate. I would advocate fine steel wooll to take of most of the offending layer before finishing of with fine 2000 or 3000 emopry paper(no water please) and then a layer of linseed oil should sort out the problem. I have done it myself and have had no problems.

sanman : Remember your last visit to Omin's office, 2 weeks ago ? You saw 50+ ready-made cues up the displaying rack in his office ? 90% were gone yesterday. Guys from other country came in and bought almost all of them. Those machined, handmade, plain butt/5-splices, 8-splices, etc. News is that cue prices will go up next year