Originally Posted by unclevit
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Sticky new cue
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Got side tracked
but fromwhat was discussed in this thread it seems like a the course of action if one wants to use get a cue that is not sticky would be to remove the sticky layer and then to treat it with either some kind of oil or wax. It should be noted that a cue can also build up a sticky layer over "naked" wood. Therefore the cue has to be cleaned and maintained as often as possible if one wants to maintain a smooth playing cue surface.
perhaps a thread on cue maintenance would be in order. Don't know if one exists
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Originally Posted by sanman View PostGot side tracked
but fromwhat was discussed in this thread it seems like a the course of action if one wants to use get a cue that is not sticky would be to remove the sticky layer and then to treat it with either some kind of oil or wax. It should be noted that a cue can also build up a sticky layer over "naked" wood. Therefore the cue has to be cleaned and maintained as often as possible if one wants to maintain a smooth playing cue surface.
perhaps a thread on cue maintenance would be in order. Don't know if one existsMy cueing sucks
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Originally Posted by brendan147 View PostThere should be one in TSF. Why not you open a new thread for cue maintenance? It could be fun. Different people with different ideas of taking care their cue, whether when the cue is "healthy" or "sick".
i am packing of for the weekend right now
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Originally Posted by sanman View PostGot side tracked
but fromwhat was discussed in this thread it seems like a the course of action if one wants to use get a cue that is not sticky would be to remove the sticky layer and then to treat it with either some kind of oil or wax. It should be noted that a cue can also build up a sticky layer over "naked" wood. Therefore the cue has to be cleaned and maintained as often as possible if one wants to maintain a smooth playing cue surface.
perhaps a thread on cue maintenance would be in order. Don't know if one existssigpic A Truly Beakerific Long Pot Sir!
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Originally Posted by sanman View PostLike I said before in the post "Thai Beauties" in the cue section of this forum the two Omin cues I bought for 60 dollars were well worth the money. So I am not surprised. I sold one Omin cue already at almost 3 times the price I paid. I kept the old Omin rack cue that he refurbished for me. I will never sell it and it plays exceptionally well. Better than most cues I have had. When I said thai cues are exceptional value for money and that the two UT cues I bought were in a class of their own people scoffed at me but you remember some of the shots I pulled of with that cue unclevit. Well the one UT cue made its first 100 break yesterday. Not by me but by a league snooker player. I am not in that league yet as I play more 8 ball pool than snooker but I am never going to sell those two cues for any money. He offered me 250 pounds equivalent for it and I refused. Thats a lot of money in South africa. He asked me to name my price and I again refused. I already placed an order for a sixteen splice UT maple cue early next year. As good as Omin cues are and there were many on display, I think you agree the two UT cues were just so much better. Beautiful yet superb performance.), but when it comes down to playing quality, it's all in the shaft and the tip. Talked to UT before about your 16-splice version, he is alright. Next year he will be having a very experienced assistant to help him on the butt splices. This man is an ex-navy and have worked as a great local carpenter before. He was working for a hi-end export-to-europe furniture company here, as supervisor (very talented person). I have seen his work before recently (quality similar to your 12-splice's). He will be UT's only assistant on the butt work (shafts making remain totally with UT's 100% handmade). Cues will come out much faster, from 10 per month to 15. Too bad my full time job is taking me away bit by bit from UT and Omin's cues.
It's in the Shaft
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