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Number of Chevrons, Any geographical trends or just personal preference?
totlxtc is completely right of course, for many nice chevrons may be desirable. But ive seen some really decent shafts that hit really sweetly, but have awful chevrons from a cosmetic point of view.
but to be honest it made me wonder if that little post was meant to balance demand for shafts with more chevrons.
This is what i wondered. I'm of dans opinion personally. I think the reason you choose ash is because you get something unique. If everyone asks for 3 chevrons 10" apart not only will there be a lot of wastage but you might miss out on the best shaft the cuemaker has. Also you lord the uniqueness
One would think that the more chevrons on a shaft would mean that the growth rings are thinner and closer together. Supposedly, the finer (the closer together) that the growth rings are, the more stable the wood is.
Now, if that's all true and the more chevrons on a shaft means that the shaft should be more expensive, why does my entry-level Riley have 14 chevrons on it?
The thing is yes they all play well, but the middle shaft is by far the best. And yes to one person one maybe the better of the 3. But I think sometimes people are too stuck in the idea of number of chevrons and straightness of grain etc...
Lets say you have 100 shafts. You want 4 perfect spaced arrows, very light shaft wood and no arrows on the rear. Now you could easily remove 80-90% of the shafts! So that is 80 - 90 shafts that could have very good playing shafts amongst them.
If i was to order a cue now (Which im not) then all i would ask for is a medium/stiff shaft and not bother with the chevrons.
Can i ask you about maple shaft buddy?
Should i be asking for a medium/stiff shaft for that wood also?
UT's regular playing cue is 20 years old, and the shaft is not beautiful at all (some said 'ugly' too). But he swears by its playing quality. Beautiful arrows are just cosmetics, in almost of the cases (not all). I always fight with UT on asking him to find many evenly spaced arrows for custom projects. He asks me this question - "Do you want a good playing shaft, or a beautiful shaft ?" and when I said "Both", he laughs and says "Then wait. May come some days".
It's all in the (quality of the) shaft, like all said.
UT's regular playing cue is 20 years old, and the shaft is not beautiful at all (some said 'ugly' too). But he swears by its playing quality. Beautiful arrows are just cosmetics, in almost of the cases (not all). I always fight with UT on asking him to find many evenly spaced arrows for custom projects. He asks me this question - "Do you want a good playing shaft, or a beautiful shaft ?" and when I said "Both", he laughs and says "Then wait. May come some days".
It's all in the (quality of the) shaft, like all said.
Now I realised that I made the right decision to ask UT to proceed with my cue project without worrying the evenly multiple chevrons ash shaft anymore....
UT's regular playing cue is 20 years old, and the shaft is not beautiful at all (some said 'ugly' too). But he swears by its playing quality. Beautiful arrows are just cosmetics, in almost of the cases (not all). I always fight with UT on asking him to find many evenly spaced arrows for custom projects. He asks me this question - "Do you want a good playing shaft, or a beautiful shaft ?" and when I said "Both", he laughs and says "Then wait. May come some days".
It's all in the (quality of the) shaft, like all said.
So, isn't the point that there's really tightly grained wood with more growth rings (and therefore, chevrons) in a given piece of lumber. And then there'd be more looser grained wood with fewer growth rings that would result in fewer chevrons.
Now the talk about "evenly spaced arrows" on the shaft, given either type of wood, would be more a function of the taper wouldn't it?
Where's the cuemakers, what's better for cue-making: tighter grained wood, or wood with larger growth rings?
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