Number of Chevrons, Any geographical trends or just personal preference?

[poolqjunkie]

One would think that the more chevrons on a shaft would mean that the growth rings are thinner and closer together. Supposedly, the finer (the closer together) that the growth rings are, the more stable the wood is.

Now, if that's all true and the more chevrons on a shaft means that the shaft should be more expensive, why does my entry-level Riley have 14 chevrons on it?

First of all, ash is not like maple, the dark rings are actually the less dense region of the wood; therefore, more of the black rings does not make the shaft denser.
Secondly, stability of the wood does not depends on the number of growth rings. It is to do with age, origin, and how it is stored and prepared and so on. Having said that, I suspect a cue with a lot of the circular grains may have a higher tendency to warp around such regions but I am not sure about that.
Thirdly, when I pick a shaft, I look at the desnity of the wood before anything else. You can get a shaft with 6 evenly spaced arrows which weights under 6 oz and plays like a noodle. You can get a nice shaft around 8 oz or so but the arrows might be uneven and may not have exactly 6 arrows but it will play much firmer with a more solid hit than the former shaft. It is just one example of why one should not judge the shaft with the arrow pattern alone. Also, a cue made with nicely spaced arrows could be poorly balanced or the wood could be too young or whatever which could make the cue plays like rubbish.
On the other hand, a shaft that has evenly spaced arrows is more rare so it is worth more money simply because of that. It is not because it automatically make the cue play better, or is more stable, or is firmer...

[huy]

the grain details doesn't bother me at all. When I was buying my current cue (16 months old) now, i remembered selecting it because of the feedback it gave during the range of test shots.

Now i've gotten used to its weight and feel, i'm doing everything I can to maintain it in order to last me a lifetime, hopefully.

[poolqjunkie]

I used to look at the arrows but recently I notice that I no longer look at the shaft when I play...

[RGCirencester]

I never have. Even if you do the only one that matters is right at the end of the cue surely!

[huy]

I don't focus on the grains now while i'm down for the shot; so as not to clutter my thoughts and concentration.

[poolqjunkie]

I want to share a picture of a cue, with only three arrows on the front, and one on the back pointing also towards the tip end. I think it is rather interesting..
What do you think?

[RGCirencester]

The single arrow is very interesting looking... But you will haev to send it me free of charge to try out so I can tell you what it hits like

[poolqjunkie]

The single arrow is very interesting looking... But you will haev to send it me free of charge to try out so I can tell you what it hits like

It hits fantastic. I have already tried it out. Thank you.

[RGCirencester]

Perhaps I should try it out too?

Indefinitely

[poolqjunkie]

Perhaps I should try it out too?

Indefinitely

I will let you try it out for free, just come down to Canada.

I have another shaft here with six evenly spaced Chevrons. Do you like it?

[RGCirencester]

If I was buying a cue cosmeticly yes. Thats exactly how I like a cue to look actually. But its silly to put these kind of demands on cue makers. A cue should be first and foremost a functional thing and it is stupid to throw away 50% of your wood stocks because people insist it should look sucha and such way.

[poolqjunkie]

If I was buying a cue cosmeticly yes. Thats exactly how I like a cue to look actually. But its silly to put these kind of demands on cue makers. A cue should be first and foremost a functional thing and it is stupid to throw away 50% of your wood stocks because people insist it should look sucha and such way.

I agree. When I pick a shaft, the weight is my first concern. Like I said in my earlier reply, if a cue has beautiful arrows but is too light or too heavy, it would not play well.

I trust my wood supplier so I know my wood has been properly prepared. If I do not know that, then I would say the origin and the way it was cut/stored/kilned would be the second thing I look at.

Having said that, a cue is not only a tool but can also be a piece of art. So, if you can have the best of both world, wouldn't you want to have a shaft that plays well and looks pleasing to your eyes?

On the other hand, from a cue maker's point of view, it is the attention to details and the pride that motivate a cue maker to pick a "nice" piece of ash for his cue--because he wants it to play as well as look as prefect as can be.

I love to look at ash grains and I like to get them in all different patterns. (e.g only 1 arrow, less than 3 arrows, 6-8 arrows, and many many arrows...) There is just something special about the way the grains are. It makes them all unique.

[RGCirencester]

Yes I agree, and you could say "I like this and this" but certainly I do not think you should demand very specific patterns from the cuemakers, say "exavtly 2 inches between each chevron" as some people do.
If you say it hits good and looks good maybe you should give me the 6 chevron cue instead of the 1 chevron one

[burwatchampion]

My avatar is my 1951 Burwatchampion i got refurbished by Tony Glover it has 11 arrows not totally even and it plays really well it does have a bit of life in it but is still sturdy even at 16 1/2oz.

I have played with a few cues now and personally i like even chevrons but only the ones in sight the rest of the shaft could have knots in it as long as it plays well !

[Cateran]

First of all, ash is not like maple, the dark rings are actually the less dense region of the wood; therefore, more of the black rings does not make the shaft denser.

I never mentioned maple. Any cue with a maple shaft that I've owned, it was very difficult to see the grain of the wood.

Secondly, stability of the wood does not depends on the number of growth rings. It is to do with age, origin, and how it is stored and prepared and so on. Having said that, I suspect a cue with a lot of the circular grains may have a higher tendency to warp around such regions but I am not sure about that.

I would have thought that the more growth rings, the older the wood/tree.

Thirdly, when I pick a shaft, I look at the desnity of the wood before anything else. You can get a shaft with 6 evenly spaced arrows which weights under 6 oz and plays like a noodle. You can get a nice shaft around 8 oz or so but the arrows might be uneven and may not have exactly 6 arrows but it will play much firmer with a more solid hit than the former shaft.

How can you tell the density of the wood by looking at it?