Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cue balance point

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cue balance point

    Can any one tell me if there is a way of determining the correct balance point?
    I have a theory but not sure if it’s correct. If you go to john parris, most of his cues are at 17inch from the butt. Surly this can't be right. As every body holds the cue slightly different. The size of arms must have some bearing the length of you bridge and the length of the cue etc.
    I am planning on getting a new cue made in the New Year and this is the one thing that still worries me.
    This is the way I think it should be done.
    Place the cue ball tight to the side cushion
    Get down and address the white ball, as if to play a shot.
    Now look at where you are gripping the butt of the cue.
    Surely the point just in front of your grip is where the balance point should be. As this is the farthest point up the cue that you will ever grip and any extra weight in front of this point would be unnecessary and would cause greater fiction on you bridge hand. If the above method is correct it strikes me that when quoting the balance point of a que, it should be from the tip of the cue and not the butt, as que lengths can vary but your balance point from the tip of the cue to your grip won’t .

    Your thoughts please
    :snooker:
    Last edited by cazmac1; 24 December 2009, 01:47 PM.

  • #2
    The balance point is nothing more than the point on a cue where it -erm- balances.
    If you put a cue on your index finger at the balance point it will remain there without falling to tip or butt.
    17" from butt is suitable for most players as the cue feels not too heavy in the butt and not too forward weighted. It feels somewhat natural.
    Some players prefer cues with a balnce point more in the butt but that is just personal preference. To have a balnce point even more to the front of the cue is difficult. The thick and dense wood and the joins are more in the back so to add more weight in the front is not possible.
    With a balance point at 17" you will never go wrong.
    I am confused... Oh wait... Maybe I'm not...

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm sorry I have to disagree, It may be just my opinion, but I think the balance is the most importent aspect of a cue and there has to be a perfect balance point for every player.

      Comment


      • #4
        I wouldn't be worried about the science behind it or finding a method etc ....its all about what "feels" right to each individual.

        Some players like to feel the weight of the cue in there hand so may prefer a lower balance pont, some prefer the weight more even or forward weighted so a higher balance point.......amazing really how the balance point effects how heavy a cue feels, regardless of its actual weight.

        2 cues exactly the same weight spec taper etc can feel totally different depending on where the balance point is. Density of timber length of butt materials used etc also comes into play.

        I've experimented with cues with a balance point of between 15" upto 19", so best thing to do is try a few & find what suits you best thats pretty much the key to it all.

        As a guide a balance point of between 16" & 18" is usually ok, any higher or lower a cue doesn't feel right to me, thats why 17" is about right.

        Most old or anitque cues balance lower & would be considered butt heavy, alot of modern cues are forward weighted, plus what feels right might depend on what you've been using or got used to in the past.

        Hope this helps a bit..........

        Comment


        • #5
          Best balance point is: not too much weight on your grip hand or your bridge.the golden middle. I've got a cue which that balanced and it plays perfectly!!

          Comment


          • #6
            I personally believe that you are right in saying everyone has his own "perfect" balance point.

            In my experience, I have found that for some cues that are lighter, say with 17oz or under, some players may feel a bit more comfortable with a bit more weight in their grip hand, hence perhaps a bit more back ward balance than the usualy 17".

            However, this is highly subjective. I am just saying I have come across player who tried a 17oz cue and said, "the cue feels too front balance, I wish there was some weight in the back."

            Perhaps the distribution of weight is often overlooked when the balance point is being discussed. If the weight is more evenly distributed, the cue would feel better in one's grip, then a cue which weight is not as evenly distributed--even if they have the same balance point.

            Also, some cues have a very stiff hit. I personally have tried some very stiff cue with 17" balance point and the hit just feels dead. I couldn't help but wonder if the balance was a bit more backward, say with a slightly lighter shaft, would the hit have been better, perhaps more alive?

            I have seen some players (children especially, and some ladies) holding their cues really forward, like more than 5" from the butt end. They should probably use a shorter cues. But if they were to play well with their cues the way they are, 17" is perhaps not the ideal balance point for them.

            However, I have played with cues with a 15" balance point which feels really good, and have played with cues with a 17" balance point which feel really "hollow" and "dead." There are many factors which determine how a cue reacts and responds.

            In American pool cues, 17" from the butt is not considered as the ideal balance point. Lots of players prefer a front balanced cue with 18" or even 19" balance point. Most pool cues are 58".

            My opinion is that the weight needs to be evenly and nicely distributed along the whole cue. Just the number "17"" does not guarantee a good playing cue.
            Last edited by poolqjunkie; 24 December 2009, 07:45 PM.
            www.AuroraCues.com

            Comment


            • #7
              I'm glad that I'm not the only one who realises that the balance point has a big influence on how a cue feels and plays. I have recently come back to the game after 20 years away. I brought a cue from John Parris and have had it altered many time's experimenting with length, butt size and balance. I think I know what I want from a cue now, I was leaning towards a more butt heavy cue, with the balance being at around 16 to 16 and 1/2. I do like to feel the butt of the cue more in my grip hand.
              One thing is certain is even if the cue is made to the mm, only when playing with it, will I find out if its suites me or not.
              Thanks for the advice lads, it has helped me in making up my mind.
              Merry Xmas:snooker:

              Comment


              • #8
                I would say that a cue being well balanced to you personally ( one that just feels right when you hold it ) is probably the most important thing I look for in a cue, its crucial.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Merry Christmas to you all. For the balance point, I prefer at 17.5" which is a bit more on the forward weight. Using different woods for the butt splices will need skills in balancing techniques, without adding extra 'lead' inserts anywhere inside the cue. These 3 woods will need different balancing skills, for 16.5" - 18" Balance Point.

                  By the way, from my experience, Shaft blank (after handplaining process, but before splice works) with weight of 7.2 oz. - 7.8 oz. will be good for the balance point between 16.5" - 17.5", and shaft blank with weight of 7.8 oz. - 8.5 oz. (which is quite a heavy shaft to me) will be good for balance point between 17.5" - 18.5". Different density butt splice woods come in consideration here. This is what I roughly learned from UT previously. My own handmade cue will be finished early January. Will post the pictures in the forum soon.

                  Just food for thought from my experience. UT and I might be wrong
                  Last edited by unclevit; 6 January 2010, 12:28 AM.
                  It's in the Shaft

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally Posted by unclevit View Post
                    Merry Christmas to you all. For the balance point, I prefer at 17.5" which is a bit more on the forward weight. Using different woods for the butt splices will need skills in balancing techniques, without adding extra 'lead' inserts anywhere inside the cue. These 3 woods will need different balancing skills, for 16.5" - 18" Balance Point.

                    By the way, from my experience, Shaft blank (after handplaining process, but before splice works) with weight of 7.2 oz. - 7.8 oz. will be good for the balance point between 16.5" - 17.5", and shaft blank with weight of 7.8 oz. - 8.5 oz. (which is quite a heavy shaft to me) will be good for balance point between 17.5" - 18.5". Different density butt splice woods come in consideration here. This is what I roughly learned from UT previously. My own handmade cue will be finished early January. Will post the pictures in the forum soon.

                    Just food for thought from my experience. UT and I might be wrong
                    Which of the three woods do you recommend for a more but heavy cue and who is making your cue?****************************************

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally Posted by cazmac1 View Post
                      Which of the three woods do you recommend for a more but heavy cue and who is making your cue?****************************************
                      From the given 3, the Siamese Gray Ebony is the heaviest of all (density, inch per inch), follows by the Siamese Cassod. Uncle Thai made my cue (well at least the most recent one ) as I am now doing my own cue, with his help on the shaft preparation, and finishing. Hope he will give me a 'pass' on this work of mine
                      It's in the Shaft

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks for the advice.
                        I'd love to make my own cue, do think JP would let me in his workshop? Ha Ha. Don't think so, anyhow don't forget to keep us updated when the cue's finnished. Like to see some Pic's :snooker:

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          A good balance point for a cue is 17 in to 18 in .

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally Posted by Terminator147 View Post
                            Best balance point is: not too much weight on your grip hand or your bridge.the golden middle. I've got a cue which that balanced and it plays perfectly!!
                            I like this expression, Golden middle.
                            Just to go back to my first post, on how to work out the balance point.
                            I came to this conclusion when I had a cue years ago and the balance point was too far back. When addressing the white ball on a cushsion shot. if you held the cue very lightly, it would lift. So it is clear that this is unacceptable as when striking the cue ball the cue/tip would want to lift causing a miscue or un-intentional side. This is what used to happen. I corrected this by adding weight to the shaft( I wont go into the how, thats another story)till the cue would balance just right at this point. The effect was amazing a I was poting every thing with a cheap cue, that I previously struggled with.
                            Now I not saying this will work for every one. But I may just have discovered a way of finding the golden middle if you like. Worth exploring don't you think. I'm Getting a new TW made and am going to sett the balance point using this method. In the last couple of weeks I've made two 80 + breaks and two 90+ breaks. I expect TW cue to put at least 20 points on too my breaks and hopfully I'll break the ton mark for the first time. I will keep all posted.:snooker:

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X