Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Correct cue length 55"?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    I agree this was my shcool of thought. But this is easer said than done. If you've trained your self to hold the cue at the end of the butt you then need to retrain your self. I'm looking for the quick fix. Only want to take 1/2 an inch off, but I'm sure your right.

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally Posted by cazmac1 View Post
      I agree this was my shcool of thought. But this is easer said than done. If you've trained your self to hold the cue at the end of the butt you then need to retrain your self. I'm looking for the quick fix. Only want to take 1/2 an inch off, but I'm sure your right.
      Crivvins Cazmac1 that's interesting. Never thought of that. One of my problems in adjusting is that I like to "feel" the end of the cue in my hand. Phsycological I think. Chopping a bit off the cue probably helps the brain sort it all out. Interesting.

      Comment


      • #33
        If you can't reach a shot with a correct bridge hand position then the extra length in any cue that lets you do it is increasing the distance between B/Hand and white and therefore increasing the chances you will strike less accurately (unless you wish to strain, just as detrimental). And with the extra 1.5" to the 56"/56.5" length all other shots will mean you have to hold the butt further up to keep the rear forearm vertical (wrist under elbow) when bridge hand is correct distance from white at address.
        The number of extra rest shots you will have to play is marginal, but if you are bothered - All you have to do is to have a mini butt cut down to 2" and keep in your pocket and put this on if you don't like the balance of a 6".
        Try this:
        5'6" person? Get a cue of 58" length and address a white and ensure correct set up:
        White to bridge point, 12"
        With bridge hand set, place back hand on butt at point which brings wrist vertically under elbow. Let someone else watch to check and measure how much the butt sticks out of hand (if). This excess distance should be removed, now you could have a cue made from scratch or shorten at tip end, taper and re-tip/ferrule.
        You always have the option of having any cue that is too long having the butt marked in some way to ensure that you place your hand back in the same place for each shot (consistent set up cannot be over emphasized).
        One way is to have a tiny groove cut around around the butt for a finger to find, or have an O ring inserted sitting just proud. You will get used to whichever and the brain will find it naturally.
        Bear in mind that any overhand out of the hand will hinder some spin and screw shots to some degree if more than an inch. Your hand really should be almost at the back.

        Comment


        • #34
          Read my post at the end of the last page.....it's what you need to do, you are right in your thinking.

          Comment


          • #35
            What I gather from your posts heera2009, are 2 ways the shorter cue may have helped you (you did not state clearly if you grip the cues at the end, or 1 to 2 inches forward, so a lot of assumptions have been made):

            1) With the assumption that you hold both cues at the end, then the shorter cue would have either (A) made you shorten your bridging distance if your bridge hand is bent at a constant angle, hence cut down on the margin of error in your delivery, or (B) if the bridging distance is the same for both cues it means the shorter cue has made you adjust your bridging hand to a more comfortable/stable position and angle.

            2) If the assumption is that your bridging distance is constant, and to keep your cueing arm vertical at address position, it means that you have shifted your grip toward the end for the shorter cue, so I guess the balance point of the shorter cue may have felt more comfortable for you (I assume that the shorter cue will have a more forward balance, so it may have helped stabilised your cueing)

            From this discussion, I just like to add that it is really interesting that some players can adjust their grip a little forward to get the balance they require, whereas some players need to hold their cues at the end. My observation is that those who can adjust would benefit more from what cue they have and utilise it to its fullest potential. For players who need to hold the cue at the end, the search for the perfect length and balance would be very important to them. I may be wrong though.
            John Lim

            Targets to beat: -line up 63, 78 (Nov 2012)- -practice match 67 (Nov 2012)- -competition 33 (Oct 2011)-

            Comment


            • #36
              I think it is very very important for the lenght of hand and arm.I am 5'5" and play 53" cue!

              Comment


              • #37
                Finding the right cue size for YOU.

                Originally Posted by heera2009 View Post
                Hi all,
                i have been playing now for a year apprx, i have always usd a 57inch cue as i thought was right for me.
                But only a few days ago i used my friends cue which is 55" and did hardly miss a pot.
                Does this mean i have been using a wrong length cue , as i am 5-6" tall? Is there some one here who has experienced this or has any knowledge on correct length of cue according to heights ?
                And should i have my cue shortened? Thanks in advance, all feedback appreciated.
                Sorry to repeat some of this, but I am new on here and just getting to grips with the site.
                This is for anyone that has been following any of the posts related to any problems with finding the right cue length to use. It is culled from my own experiences and finding the right solutions from experts within the industry.

                Any person below 5'8" in height will have to compromise in some way when playing on a full sized table with a cue of 57/58" which is pretty much standard. The shorter the player, the more the adjustment especially if you have short arms for your height as that causes extra problems.
                Follow everything below and your problems will disappear almost overnight, you will have more confidence playing, feel more comfy on shots, one feeds the other.

                THE GREAT RAY REARDON, 6 TIMES WORLD CHAMPION USED A 55.5" cue.....and he is a tall person.

                ( For the following guidance you are expected to be able to know how to stand properly and balance yourself etc. If not, cure this first )

                5'6" person? Get a cue ideally of 58" length and address a white and ensure correct set up:
                Have the white to bridge point distance at 12".
                With bridge hand set, place back hand on butt at a point which brings wrist vertically under the elbow.
                Let someone else watch to check and measure how much the butt sticks out of hand. This excess distance should be (ideally) removed **
                Now you could have a cue made from scratch or shorten one at the tip end, taper and re-tip/ferrule.
                You always have the option of having any cue that is too long having the butt marked in some way to ensure that you place your hand back in the same place "up the butt" for each shot (consistent set up cannot be over emphasized).
                One way is to have a tiny groove cut around around the butt for a finger to find, or have an O ring inserted sitting just proud. You will get used to whichever and the brain will find it naturally.
                ** Bear in mind that any overhand out of the hand will hinder some spin and screw shots to some degree if more than an inch (so experts say). Your hand really should be almost at the back of the butt, where you will naturally be able to locate without thinking.

                A "shorter" cue may well restrict reaching some shots as some players point out, but a longer cue which is not the right size for you will mean that you will be tempted to use it for the those shots and increase the distance between bridge point and white and/or have the butt arm extended back, all of which de-stabilizes your body and makes you far, far more likely to miss. If you still prefer this method to using a rest (which you should learn to use), then it's much better to play with a "shorter" cue which is right for you for all 99% of shots and pop on a 2/3" (whatever you prefer) specially cut down mini extension when you need it instead, to bring it back to a standard size 57/58, which will cut down the rest use if that's important to you.

                The main point is look after the 99% of shots, ideally don't fiddle around with a cue that is too long.

                GET THE HAND TO HAND DISTANCE RIGHT AND EVERYTHING ELSE FALLS INTO PLACE.
                The compromise is the marked butt method, but ultimately you will be a shorter person yielding a longer than necessary cue and you may well have overlooked the fact it gets in the way walking about the table, which is a distraction.....and for even chalking the tip. Do you have to lean the cue over a lot to do it?

                Put all of this into practice and start enjoying snooker again.

                Footnote : I am 5'6" and have put all of this into practice....trust me it works. Every player of ANY height will benefit from the right hand to hand distance, the correct length of cue will make the issue all the more easier and the game more enjoyable.
                I observed a 5'4" player with very short arms using a 57" cue with highly stretched arm positions who snatched virtually every shot. The correct hand positions were found and a rubber band was placed on the butt to help him locate, within half an hour he was playing every shot much more smoothly and pot success increased and more importantly so did the smile on his face.

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally Posted by renniwevarb View Post
                  What I gather from your posts heera2009, are 2 ways the shorter cue may have helped you (you did not state clearly if you grip the cues at the end, or 1 to 2 inches forward, so a lot of assumptions have been made):

                  1) With the assumption that you hold both cues at the end, then the shorter cue would have either (A) made you shorten your bridging distance if your bridge hand is bent at a constant angle, hence cut down on the margin of error in your delivery, or (B) if the bridging distance is the same for both cues it means the shorter cue has made you adjust your bridging hand to a more comfortable/stable position and angle.

                  2) If the assumption is that your bridging distance is constant, and to keep your cueing arm vertical at address position, it means that you have shifted your grip toward the end for the shorter cue, so I guess the balance point of the shorter cue may have felt more comfortable for you (I assume that the shorter cue will have a more forward balance, so it may have helped stabilised your cueing)

                  From this discussion, I just like to add that it is really interesting that some players can adjust their grip a little forward to get the balance they require, whereas some players need to hold their cues at the end. My observation is that those who can adjust would benefit more from what cue they have and utilise it to its fullest potential. For players who need to hold the cue at the end, the search for the perfect length and balance would be very important to them. I may be wrong though.

                  Everybody, just like you are skirting all around the problem, saying often the right things.....without summing it all up correctly.

                  Please, please read my long post on this issue. Weight of cue, balance point, etc. are important AFTER you get the basics right. Doing the basics right first as I suggest enables you to know what fine tuning (weight, balance point) you need, but only afterwards. Fiddle about with these first and it clouds the issue. Walk first, run after.

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Hi Cueman, I really like your post and am glad you have opened up this topic again as
                    I'm still trying to find the correct lenght of cue for me. I have now got my new cue from Trevor white and have played with the cue for a few months, I had the cue made an inch longer than my previous cue, and have hit some good breaks with the cue and but for a poor positional shot on the yellow would have made my first ton. Yet I dont feel I have total control over the cue especialy on cushion shot's. I want to make the cue shorter but not as short as my previous cue. I like your method of finding the correct lenght but have a question for you. You have mentioned a distance of 12 inch's from tip to bridge, I'm sure I've read other posts that have indicated 10" to be the correct distance can you tell me how you have come to measurement of
                    12" and is generally the norm.:snooker:

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally Posted by cazmac1 View Post
                      Hi Cueman, I really like your post and am glad you have opened up this topic again as
                      I'm still trying to find the correct lenght of cue for me. I have now got my new cue from Trevor white and have played with the cue for a few months, I had the cue made an inch longer than my previous cue, and have hit some good breaks with the cue and but for a poor positional shot on the yellow would have made my first ton. Yet I dont feel I have total control over the cue especialy on cushion shot's. I want to make the cue shorter but not as short as my previous cue. I like your method of finding the correct lenght but have a question for you. You have mentioned a distance of 12 inch's from tip to bridge, I'm sure I've read other posts that have indicated 10" to be the correct distance can you tell me how you have come to measurement of
                      12" and is generally the norm.:snooker:
                      Hi,

                      Ever heard of Frank Callan? http://www.fcsnooker.co.uk/coaching_...n/coaching.htm

                      It's a bit of a hard site to navigate, but all you need to know is in there.
                      He has been the man so many famous pros have turned to in times of struggle. Notably JH who I seem to remember shortened a cue.

                      Simply the best tutor there is and likely to be.

                      The distance you speak of is probably the most open to opinion.

                      There is always the exception, forgot who it was but a pro once played very close to the ball.
                      But you know my short height and I have no problem with 12". But because of the long cue i'd let it increase without knowing and pot success suffers.
                      Like many things with the set up, it's hard to keep disciplined as there is so many things to think of in the game at once. And as everything can vary, you may be varying this one. Personally, I don't think it makes too much difference to us amateurs, but I wouldn't go under 10. But it has to be CONSTANT because you will be changing the distance of the hand on the shaft in relation to the tip.....which will bring into question the distance between the 2 hands once again. So up goes the hand on the butt again if you take the bridge hand nearer the tip or you strain or you cramp up if the hand moves away from the tip, this is assuming you have a cue length to match your body and that the hand is at the back of butt.

                      Frank explains about how the set up gives a good balance and freedom of movement with 12" with the waggles and with the follow through on power shots.

                      Break of nearly a ton? You must be doing something right!

                      You make no mention of your stature, the specs. of the 2 cues. I have taken delivery of a cue today, specifically shortened to my requirements via the procedure I have set out. I made my post at the end of the preliminary trials which I knew for certain had worked. The main cue comes next.

                      Now if you are wondering what a difference an inch would do taken off a cue with a tiny 9.2 tip at 57.25" with a join and balance at 16" and weight of 17.5 oz and it felt to me out of balance (tip light) and very light overall... and reduced to 56" ish and a 9.6 tip / ferrule upgrade - the shaft tapered a tad to suit which has made the shaft therefore 1.3 mm thicker on the bridge point, a weight inserted to bring it up to 18.5 oz.
                      Well, the difference is astounding, even better than I could have hoped for.

                      * I now pick up the cue at the butt end, have the hand placed without thinking and therefore when I set my body up in good balance as a result of the right length of cue, the bridge hand falls exactly where I wan it....... all of it naturally suited to my body. Amazing.

                      It's not easy, I am not saying it is (well it is when you get it right). But do everything in order, which has to include the correct initial set up stance and success will follow.

                      Get someone to check as you play, see what the bridge point is and if it changes. I would follow the method outlined as a check and see and get the distances right and play with it at least 10 hours before you cut that cue.
                      It's all about what feels most comfy and balanced, your body should naturally set itself, you just need to give it the right conditions.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally Posted by cazmac1 View Post
                        Hi Cueman, I really like your post and am glad you have opened up this topic again as
                        I'm still trying to find the correct lenght of cue for me. I have now got my new cue from Trevor white and have played with the cue for a few months, I had the cue made an inch longer than my previous cue, and have hit some good breaks with the cue and but for a poor positional shot on the yellow would have made my first ton. Yet I dont feel I have total control over the cue especialy on cushion shot's. I want to make the cue shorter but not as short as my previous cue. I like your method of finding the correct lenght but have a question for you. You have mentioned a distance of 12 inch's from tip to bridge, I'm sure I've read other posts that have indicated 10" to be the correct distance can you tell me how you have come to measurement of
                        12" and is generally the norm.:snooker:

                        By the way, if you have had a cue shorter and all things being equal and the hand always at the butt end, you will have either had the hand closer to the tip or have been cramped up.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Originally Posted by cueman25 View Post
                          Everybody, just like you are skirting all around the problem, saying often the right things.....without summing it all up correctly.

                          Please, please read my long post on this issue. Weight of cue, balance point, etc. are important AFTER you get the basics right. Doing the basics right first as I suggest enables you to know what fine tuning (weight, balance point) you need, but only afterwards. Fiddle about with these first and it clouds the issue. Walk first, run after.
                          Wow, what did I do? I merely stated my observations, leaving it to readers to gather what they can from it.

                          Well you are definitely right in certain aspects of course, but everyone is entitled to their opinions on a public forum. No need to start telling people off this way.
                          John Lim

                          Targets to beat: -line up 63, 78 (Nov 2012)- -practice match 67 (Nov 2012)- -competition 33 (Oct 2011)-

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally Posted by renniwevarb View Post
                            Wow, what did I do? I merely stated my observations, leaving it to readers to gather what they can from it.

                            Well you are definitely right in certain aspects of course, but everyone is entitled to their opinions on a public forum. No need to start telling people off this way.

                            Hi John,

                            Misunderstanding there, not intended to "tell off" anyone.....
                            I am very keen to share and emphasize that these alterations one can make, will make a huge beneficial difference in most cases and so the opposite is also true....you could also make them worse if you don't follow correct procedure. I would hate this to happen. Perhaps I let my enthusiasm run away?

                            The nearer your own specs. are to being OK, the more careful you must be with the fine tuning. We have a guy following and he's thinking of alterations when he can make a break of nearly a 100 (find in thread).
                            Now if he can do that and still feel a "missing link", then it backs up what I said and so it's even more important to do the right thing and that's why I said don't all "skate around" this issue.....it's simply too important. That's all I meant by it.

                            Much of the info I have shared is given on the Frank Callan website. If Steve Davis, John Higgins etc. turn to him for advice.....that's good enough for me

                            Best regards.

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              I've had a look at franks site it's very good. I'm about 5-11 and think I've allways played with a cue of 57, I went up to 58 1/4 which I think is too long, I think I'm going to get Trevor to take half an inch off and bring it down too 57 3/4. I'm going to put your advice into practice and see how it pans out.

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Originally Posted by cazmac1 View Post
                                I've had a look at franks site it's very good. I'm about 5-11 and think I've allways played with a cue of 57, I went up to 58 1/4 which I think is too long, I think I'm going to get Trevor to take half an inch off and bring it down too 57 3/4. I'm going to put your advice into practice and see how it pans out.

                                Hi,

                                You need to do the calcs first. Whilst your height play a part as it has a bearing on your general arm length, you could be short armed or have other considerations....waistline?.
                                I can't stress enough following procedure. Now, you are in the best position because you have a std - long-ish cue to start with which means you can carry out the test fully (if you don't have leeway room in the cue, you can't.....just like you can't put wood back you've had chopped off).

                                You really should do this first.....

                                Set bridge to white distance (10-12 as comfy), then set your stance comfy and distance between arms by holding the butt at a point which ensures that the back arm is vertical (wrist under elbow). You now know the correct distance from butt end to tip and so the length of cue is set.

                                Rubber band method the position and play some snooker !! OK?

                                NOW you can have the cue cut if necessary. I'd always leave 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of butt behind the back of hand, just to be on the safe side and it will be slightly up the chamfer, which can be very thin on some cues.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X