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  • #46
    Originally Posted by trains View Post
    Mmm hmm,god knows what cost on a 'name' cue as opposed to 10 mins of sandpapering & the collossal £1 expense on sandpaper. Hmmm toughie
    you obviously havnt got a clue mate

    Comment


    • #47
      Originally Posted by trains View Post
      Mmm hmm,god knows what cost on a 'name' cue as opposed to 10 mins of sandpapering & the collossal £1 expense on sandpaper. Hmmm toughie
      I think you need to have a good search on this forum before you start giving out advise , especially when its about using sandpaper on cues .

      If you dont really know what your talking about then it,s best not to advise at all . Otherwise somebody could end up with a ruined cue .

      Comment


      • #48
        Originally Posted by jrc750 View Post
        you obviously havnt got a clue mate
        Sir jrc750 your presupposing 'I havent got a clue' simply because I've never played with an expensive cue? Umm I can live with that

        Comment


        • #49
          Originally Posted by hotpot View Post
          I think you need to have a good search on this forum before you start giving out advise , especially when its about using sandpaper on cues .

          If you dont really know what your talking about then it,s best not to advise at all . Otherwise somebody could end up with a ruined cue .
          I've used fine sandpaper on mine,key word fine,and its tip top smooth,on that condition I dont see the problem.

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          • #50
            i think we are talking about treatment of cue not cost

            Comment


            • #51
              A couple of points:
              Hendrys cue would cost you £200 in todays money; it was not a cheap cue That's one of those urban myths it was a Powerglide connoisseur handspliced and cost probably £80 30 years ago.
              I digress

              I have a Riley from mid 90s that is a decent player, better than the Peradon I replaced it with. I bought the top spec machine spliced Peradon and it was a big mistake. I shelled out £90 then had to replace it with a proper cue a couple of years later. Better to just spend a bit more now I think. £150 compared to £84 can make a big difference. You already shelled out £50 that was a false economy wasn't it.

              Secondhand can be a good way to go. £80 might get you something alright. Old handspliced cues can be ok. My Dad has a nice Riley burwat from 70s seen them on fleabay for £50 you could get a Joe Davis 147 for £50 too. These would be better put ons imo.

              People have written guides on here about taken lacquer off. It might be worth a bash if you don't want to shell more money out. Could give you more info if you consider it. Sealing it with linseed oil or wax is a must.

              Comment


              • #52
                Originally Posted by trains View Post
                I've used fine sandpaper on mine,key word fine,and its tip top smooth,on that condition I dont see the problem.
                So have you just left the shaft of the cue after you sanded it down ? or have you applied linseed oil, wax or whatever to it ?

                Comment


                • #53
                  Originally Posted by jrc750 View Post
                  So have you just left the shaft of the cue after you sanded it down ? or have you applied linseed oil, wax or whatever to it ?
                  I just taped over the tip and ferrule and carefully shaved it down,not an expert or ought and prob have less experience on it than a lot here but it worked just fine,I havent applied any oil,its all good I dont see the need.

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                  • #54
                    Originally Posted by trains View Post
                    I just taped over the tip and ferrule and carefully shaved it down,not an expert or ought and prob have less experience on it than a lot here but it worked just fine,I havent applied any oil,its all good I dont see the need.
                    It seals the wood.
                    Stops it from drying out and gives a barrier to water. It also gives a better finish. No proper cue maker leave the bare wood there is a reason for that.

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Originally Posted by Watford View Post
                      It seals the wood.
                      Stops it from drying out and gives a barrier to water. It also gives a better finish. No proper cue maker leave the bare wood there is a reason for that.
                      Will give it some careful tlc with that,thanks.

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Watford Thanks very much for your post. I wanted to make the same point myself but couldn't find the right words. "Urban myth" is a good choice of words. I bought my Rex Williams Powerglide same time as Stephen and paid around the same. Lately I've been looking to change cue but can't get anything that stacks up the same. Tried a few. It's well worth shelling out for a descent cue that will last a long time. In saying that there's nothing wrong with buying a top of the range cue if you want to own a quality piece of craftsmanship.

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Bigmeek it was a while back but I think Phil Yates said in a premier league match around 97 that Hendry's cue cost £15.Not contending with anyone but if thats right its not like he wouldnt have deterred invites to get a more upmarket cue then either,as I think Yates added.

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Originally Posted by trains View Post
                            Bigmeek it was a while back but I think Phil Yates said in a premier league match around 97 that Hendry's cue cost £15.Not contending with anyone but if thats right its not like he wouldnt have deterred invites to get a more upmarket cue then either,as I think Yates added.
                            trains Yeah, Phil Yates comments just add to the "Urban Myth". When he (Stephen) was interviewed at the time his cue was broken (on the way back from Thailand) he said his cue was bought for "around forty quid". He'd had the cue since he was 14 years old (circa 1983?) and felt it was irreplaceable. If my memory serves me well it was second hand when he bought it so maybe he got a bargain? Only Stephen, I guess would be able to recall exact events but one thing is certain. He found a cue that he was happy with and it served him well. I've seen pictures of Stephens old cue and it certainly wasn't a "cheapy" for the period.

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                            • #59
                              It was second hand they were around £80 new I've been told.

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                train? wtf?

                                i think trains should stop givin out bad advice before he gets derailed. trains; you cant just assume wat your doing is "right" because it worked for you last weekend. in reality, some "tlc" isnt going to cut it when the cue only lasts you 2 yrs, because you essentially told some poor lad how to successfully wreck his cue and not giv it the life, it could potentially have. there are experts on here giving sound advice, so dont try and pretend as if you're the know-it-all because you hav a decent break with a crap cue. your cockiness and moronic advice is what people on this forum DONT need, because a lot of people come here for proper advice. IMO you should STFU before you ruin another persons cue.

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