Questions re joint on Davis's Ye Olde Ash

[poolqjunkie]

I have a few questions about the joint on Steve Davis cue, which is jointed at the fingers.
Could anyone please tell me who did the work? (Was it John Parris?)
If you have a cue jointed this way, could you please share with me if the grains above and below the brass stay in line over time?
Why did Steve Davis choose to cut the joint where he did? Was it done out of balance consideration?
Thank you so much in advanced.

[willytan]

I gas the procedure was performed by John Parris which had from then made him so famous.

Maybe John Parris can come out and explain the reason behind.

[mattyshinobi22]

I have a few questions about the joint on Steve Davis cue, which is jointed at the fingers.
Could anyone please tell me who did the work? (Was it John Parris?)
If you have a cue jointed this way, could you please share with me if the grains above and below the brass stay in line over time?
Why did Steve Davis choose to cut the joint where he did? Was it done out of balance consideration?
Thank you so much in advanced.

read somewhere there was some splice damage on steves cue and steve was thinking abut having it jointed anyway so john did the repair work and jointed
above splices. oh and also removed the badge and extened the butt a bit

[ebonynivory]

If my memory serves me correctly, the cue was snapped at the tip end, so John Parris cut the cue through the splices and then made a new longer butt to make the cue the full length again. I can only assume that it was jointed through the splices for balance purposes. I have seen cues jointed through the splices where over time the brass does not keep the grain in line.

[poolqjunkie]

Thank you for the info.
Why wasn't the joint put above the splices rather than through it, or jointed below the splices and have a lead weight inserted above the joint to move the balance forward?
So, a new shaft was made for Steve Davis's old cue, plus the butt being respliced to increase its length, plus a joint installed, and the badge removed?
Anyone know if Steve Davis's cue's grains are lined up above and below the joint, please?

[platt]

From what i know, Davis cue cracked at the top and had to be cut down therefore losing an inch or two from the overal lenght, jp decided to make a new butt so the lenght lost from the shaft was replaced with the new butt, the joint placement was for balance, when the cue is put together everything lines up. the only part of the cue that is from davis ye old ash is the shaft, in the 90s jp made a new cue for davis but he went back to his old cue after a few year. Hope this help for my cue....lol

[poolqjunkie]

From what i know, Davis cue cracked at the top and had to be cut down therefore losing an inch or two from the overal lenght, jp decided to make a new butt so the lenght lost from the shaft was replaced with the new butt, the joint placement was for balance, when the cue is put together everything lines up. the only part of the cue that is from davis ye old ash is the shaft, in the 90s jp made a new cue for davis but he went back to his old cue after a few year. Hope this help for my cue....lol

I see, now I understand.:-) Makes sense.
Those Ye Olde Ash shafts are very old and almost reddish in colour, is that right?
I at first misundestood and thought he had a new shaft made with the butt respliced and a joint put on, which kind of sounded to me like he pretty much had a new cue made.
I was also trying to understand the benefit of having the join placed through the fingers. As I believe if you can get a dense shaft with a good spring you can still get a forward balanced cue by placing the joint below the fingers. So, I was hoping someone could offer me more insight into this.
I notice Mark Williams also has a cue jointed that way.

[potter]

The first edition Ye Olde Ash cues had a pink/light redish coloured shaft. Steve's is a second edition by the looks of it, same as mine.

Back in the day, I'm sure I heard Steve had an accident in his Porsche, and the cue was broken, that's if I'm not confusing him with someone else?

Whatever the reason, he decided to chop it, and it was never the same again. Although saying that, he did play well, and win a major competition soon after, making some big breaks if I remember correctly.

Watching Steve Davis win his second world championship, I think has to be the best any snooker has played, in the last 30 years at least!

He was that good, I think I remember one commentator saying something like " ...well that break off shot hasn't reached the baulk line, and the blacks still on it's spot. I fear Steve will finish the frame in this visit"....lol





Potter

[poolqjunkie]

The first edition Ye Olde Ash cues had a pink/light redish coloured shaft. Steve's is a second edition by the looks of it, same as mine.

Back in the day, I'm sure I heard Steve had an accident in his Porsche, and the cue was broken, that's if I'm not confusing him with someone else?

Whatever the reason, he decided to chop it, and it was never the same again. Although saying that, he did play well, and win a major competition soon after, making some big breaks if I remember correctly.

Watching Steve Davis win his second world championship, I think has to be the best any snooker has played, in the last 30 years at least!

He was that good, I think I remember one commentator saying something like " ...well that break off shot hasn't reached the baulk line, and the blacks still on it's spot. I fear Steve will finish the frame in this visit"....lol





Potter

Thank you.
I am working on building a cue like Steve Davis's. So I would like to learn more about it.
I have seen some old Hunt cues which were 1 piece cut at the fingers or above and the join all were a bit out of line.
I am just a b it concerned about this.
Thank you.

[Rugbyballs]

Im pretty sure i heard an interview with steve who said the splices dont quite line up straight and you can actually see it sometimes on close ups, but i believe he said he likes it.

[poolqjunkie]

Thank you for the info.
I always suspect if the joint is made with brass then a very slight wearing of the joint face will get the grains go off line.
Perhaps something a bit strongerer such as stainless steel would work?
But I am trying to keep the cue looking classical and traditional, just like Davis's 3/4...so brass should be the way to go, right?
I suppose if the user never really unscrews the cue then it will stay in line.
Anyone know if there is a way to prevent the joint from going off line over time?
Thank you.

[potter]

Your correct!...brass isn't that tough, and the action of continually loosening and tightening the joint stretches the thread, which results in the butt being twisted, a few degrees further around.

Hunt & O'Byrne realised this, and made a "heavy duty" brass joint with a thicker and wider thread, than the thin and fine threaded joints used in 2 piece cues at the time. The problem was, although the joint was fit for the purpose, it weighed much too heavy, and upset the balance of the cue. The only way to counteract this, was to use the very stiffest shaftwood, which they had back in the early days, but struggled to source later after they had moved from Canary Wharf.

Having said this, it's very easy to get the alignment of the splices reset, by any competent cue maker, and I'm wondering why Steve hasn't got his re-aligned by now, as they are obviously out a couple of millimeters, and must surely play on his mind?






Potter

[mattyshinobi22]

Your correct!...brass isn't that tough, and the action of continually loosening and tightening the joint stretches the thread, which results in the butt being twisted, a few degrees further around.

Hunt & O'Byrne realised this, and made a "heavy duty" brass joint with a thicker and wider thread, than the thin and fine threaded joints used in 2 piece cues at the time. The problem was, although the joint was fit for the purpose, it weighed much too heavy, and upset the balance of the cue. The only way to counteract this, was to use the very stiffest shaftwood, which they had back in the early days, but struggled to source later after they had moved from Canary Wharf.

Having said this, it's very easy to get the alignment of the splices reset, by any competent cue maker, and I'm wondering why Steve hasn't got his re-aligned by now, as they are obviously out a couple of millimeters, and must surely play on his mind?






Potter

its been while since his cue was jointed, maybe hes used to it by no and doesnt want to risk alteration

[poolqjunkie]

If the cue has a flat butt and the lines keep going off more and more to one side it has got to get a point whereas the player will find it hard to use as the grains will look all wrong as he is down on the shots--but if he never looks at the grains then perhaps it would not matter?
If Steve now never takes his cue apart then the lines will not any more off though.
I have tried to re-aline one cue with an off alignment at the joint. After I re-set the join, I needed to flush the joint with the wood again and then refinish it because it was an old cue and was not round to begin with so a part of the brass was overhanging on one side and some wood overhanging on the other.
Interesting you mentioned the Hunt joint. I am thinking of making something thicker like the thick Hunt joint for this project as well. But I am really busy now so have not really had the time to test it out.
But if it is made of brass it will still wear out even though it is deeper, right?
Thank you for the comment and info, appreciate them.