Re Finish my cue

[darrenlowe79]

I have a mastercue special and i am looking to re finish it
What is the best way to go about it eg - sanding what grade of sandpaper to use?
What oil to use after sanding.
I have seen on ebay coutts cue oil and Mike Wooldridge Cue Oil on ebay are these any good??

Any help would be great
Thanks Darren

[nrage]

I have a mastercue special and i am looking to re finish it
What is the best way to go about it eg - sanding what grade of sandpaper to use?
What oil to use after sanding.
I have seen on ebay coutts cue oil and Mike Wooldridge Cue Oil on ebay are these any good??

Any help would be great
Thanks Darren

Do a search of the forums, there are several threads on sanding and oiling cues with lots of directions and opinions on the best method.

The short answer ..

varnished? fine sandpaper to take off the varnish.

not varnished? even finer sandpaper, or maybe nothing at all.

raw linseed oil, everyone seems to have their own technique to applying it. I suspect the MW cue oil is mostly raw linseed oil, but who knows.

[cazmac1]

I also would like a complete step by step guide to re-finishing a cue
stating exactly what materials to use from grades and types of sand paper,
oils and grain filler. If you get to see this post trev, wouldn't mind your input.
I would appreciate any input from all members also.
PS
Narge, I tryed the search but couldn't find any kind guide., if you have a link pls post.
Cheers Cazmac

[perpetualboredom]

if you're talking cues worth £100's then for the sake of £25 take it to a pro, you wont be able to acheive anything like the finish yourself and by the time you've bought all the stuff and got arm ache it wont come out much cheaper if you do.

[DocJ]

I had a go at this a few months back.....not on an expensive cue but on my Riley 'Paul Hunter' cue. It was varnished, and whenever my bridge hand got a bit clammy it would just stick like glue!

I used 1000 grit sandpaper to take the varnish off, and then used 1500 grit to apply the final finish to the shaft. I then put on a couple of coats of generic boiled linseed oil, leaving a day between each coat. I know that mist people say to use raw but I haven't had any problems. Finally, I gave it a goof buff with a cloth......it now feels a smooth as silk, and glides better than I could ever have hoped for.

I believe you can also apply a final coat of beeswax to get that shiny, polished look and seal the cue but I didn't go that far......

[cazmac1]

if you're talking cues worth £100's then for the sake of £25 take it to a pro, you wont be able to acheive anything like the finish yourself and by the time you've bought all the stuff and got arm ache it wont come out much cheaper if you do.

I hear what your saying and will I take my new JP to get refinished by a pro. But I also have two cheap cues that I would like to do myself.

[iancafc]

personally if its an expensive cue get a pro cue maker to do it for £30 theres a few that will do it and they always have the proper gear