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Craftsman cue - remove varnish?

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  • #16
    sandpaper it

    I remove all varnish on my JP elite with 400 grit sandpaper then 800 grit for finshing,after that wipe it down wit a damp cloth then u buffer it wit a dry cloth for finishing..

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    • #17
      i thought 400 and 800 are very sharp.. aren't suppose to use something more than 1000 ???

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      • #18
        Cheers for all the responses

        so it's more likely a layer of wax on my craftsman than varnish...

        and my best options would be, either:

        using 0000 grade wire wool, and cleaning it, like this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Trollull-Wire-...item5ad99ef41c

        Or, wiping it with a damp cloth, drying, then using some mr. sheen on it – is that what you mean by buffing it? Or do you mean by using oi/wax? Then using sheen to polish it…then with my own option of quoting it with beeswax if I wanted…

        And I’ve seen this “cue slide” stuff being mentioned…so I’m pretty confused at the moment as to whats best to do…that would be alright applying to a wax finished cue?

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        • #19
          Originally Posted by MikeyMcD View Post
          Cheers for all the responses

          so it's more likely a layer of wax on my craftsman than varnish...

          and my best options would be, either:

          using 0000 grade wire wool, and cleaning it, like this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Trollull-Wire-...item5ad99ef41c

          Or, wiping it with a damp cloth, drying, then using some mr. sheen on it – is that what you mean by buffing it? Or do you mean by using oi/wax? Then using sheen to polish it…then with my own option of quoting it with beeswax if I wanted…

          And I’ve seen this “cue slide” stuff being mentioned…so I’m pretty confused at the moment as to whats best to do…that would be alright applying to a wax finished cue?
          I hope someone was joking about the Mr Sheen..

          Just a moist cloth, then buff with a plain dry cloth, that's absolultely all you'll need. It cost nothing so I'd try that before you become wood butcher .
          ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
          Old cue collector --
          Cue Sales: http://oldcues.co.uk/index.php?id=for_sale_specials
          (yes I know they're not cheap, I didn't intend them to be!..)
          ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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          • #20
            I read and heard in many places that using a sandpaper too smoothen your cue is the worst thing you can every do! You will ruin your shafts finish and remove the layer that protects the timber.

            Read 4th line: https://www.parriscues.com/home.html

            Shockingly using sandpaper seems to be very common in here, can someone explain why?
            It's not the pace of life that concerns me... It's whether I make a 147 break before it ends!
            Quote © to Craftman Cues.

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            • #21
              Yeah cheers, I think i'll do that and maybe look at that Cue slide product if it gets sticky or whatever.

              Yeah I thought the mr sheen thing was a little strange...

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              • #22
                Originally Posted by King T View Post
                I read and heard in many places that using a sandpaper too smoothen your cue is the worst thing you can every do! You will ruin your shafts finish and remove the layer that protects the timber.

                Read 4th line: https://www.parriscues.com/home.html

                Shockingly using sandpaper seems to be very common in here, can someone explain why?
                Sanding is necessary if you want to remove laquer or varnish before refinishing with oil.

                Craftsmancues are finished with oil and wax I think, so wouldn't need anything drastic to remove the wax layer. If you use sand paper I would try something as fine as possible but the wire wool is probably best.
                Tear up that manure-fed astroturf!

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                • #23
                  Like John Parris, Craftsman use a sanding sealer on the cues when finished, this helps seal the wood and protect it from moisture.
                  I would not use steel wool as this will also open up the grain on ash. I would recommend using a high grade wet and dry paper to remove this layer and by using this method you won't open the grain. If you want you can then apply some oil to the cue.
                  "Don't think, feel"

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                  • #24
                    I've got myself a microfibre cloth and that's working great for me, gave the cue a light cleanse with a damp cloth and used the microfbire cloth to dry it with and now using a clean one to keep it running really smooth.

                    A shame my game's taken a nosedive at the same time though! ;-)
                    One day I'll make a century, I've knocked in a 51!

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                    • #25
                      when having a cue with this problem, the main concern is looking after the grain long term,,, i use wet&dry,, a medium to take all the varnish off then a fine(1200) to get it very smooth, then i use danish oil, i put plenty on and use a paint brush to get right in to the grain, leave for 24 hrs,,, then buff with a clean cloth,,,some players repeat this every year to protect their cue,,,, don't want that beautiful grain lifting do we?

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                      • #26
                        I never use anything less than 2000grit wet and dry when finishing a cue,damp cloth to clean and a dry buff then a very light oil. Depending on usage of course but twice a year should suffice for a weekly player. I do use wire wool to polish the ferrule but I wouldn't ever touch a shaft with it. Never.

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