This ones for the Cue Makers

[jim evans]

slow taper

if the main men who make cues are buying the shafts as ready doweled they should not be saying hand made they should be saying hand spliced but i think that the main men will get there shafts as dave couts does as a piece of 50x50 square and taper to 40x20 and then planeing down to round

[poolqjunkie]

Yes, buying dowels already turned in my opinion is not the best thing to do as you have no idea what has been done to the dowels. Some cuemakers might be doing it this way and as long as the end product is good I guess you can't really fault them.

This just looks like an order of a long plain ebony ash cue with a thick butt, I think any cue maker can do this, and most competent cue makers should be able to make a very nice cue to the spec. The term slow taper is a bit confusing but if you would just tell your chosen cue maker whether you like your shaft very stiff, medium stiff...etc and let him use his own taper it should be fine.

[j6uk]

Don't Quote me on the dowels or planks but yes i agree its interesting why, 60" long cue is a problem for some..

Anyway is there a cue maker here to help me Please?

[Gerry Armstrong]

I very much doubt any of the cue makers you have in mind would be trawling through this forum looking for business. You would be better off contacting the cue maker(s) direct and discussing your requirements.

[jim evans]

were are you based

[j6uk]

I guess so, although most of them do look here fairly often.. I was more hoping for a maker taking sympathy for my quest, or someone has a similar cue made by one of the top craftsman. Anyway..

Thanks all positives taken

[j6uk]

were are you based

I'm in London SW

[trevs1]

TW can't do it last time i looked. I'll def check out Dan.. I like his work. Thks

I have no idea where you got that information, I've made a lot of cues at 60" and some above that. There is totally no reason why ANY maker worth dealing with could not make it. It's VERY straighthforward.

[trevs1]

[QUOTE=Gerry Armstrong;539408]I very much doubt any of the cue makers you have in mind would be trawling through this forum looking for business. You would be better off contacting the cue maker(s) direct and discussing your requirements.[/QUOTE]

Good posting, especially the bit in bold.

[snooks1000]

I have no idea where you got that information, I've made a lot of cues at 60" and some above that. There is totally no reason why ANY maker worth dealing with could not make it. It's VERY straighthforward.

i've read somewhere thats its not easy to make a cue 60" or longer thats plays as well as a more standard length cue. whats your opinion on this?...

[snooks1000]

why i've wrote 'thats' twice instead of 'that' i'm not sure. guess thats what i get for trying to type while watching the snooker...

[jim evans]

cue taper

when ive been planeing a cue they tend to start off at about 60 -62 inch and then i cut them down when i think ive got the right butt size and tip size i think most makers (not that ime classing myself as a cue maker just an eager novice) do start the cues big any answer to that trev an co thanks jim

[j6uk]

[QUOTE=trevs1;539430]

I very much doubt any of the cue makers you have in mind would be trawling through this forum looking for business. You would be better off contacting the cue maker(s) direct and discussing your requirements.[/QUOTE]

Good posting, especially the bit in bold.

Thanks Trev, so you can make this cue?

Call you next week.

[trevs1]

[QUOTE=j6uk;539460]

Thanks Trev, so you can make this cue?

Call you next week.

ANY maker could make it, or should be able to.

If they tell you they can't, I've got absolutely no idea why.

[trevs1]

when ive been planeing a cue they tend to start off at about 60 -62 inch and then i cut them down when i think ive got the right butt size and tip size i think most makers (not that ime classing myself as a cue maker just an eager novice) do start the cues big any answer to that trev an co thanks jim

Not able to speak for how eveyone else does things Jim. But common sense would tell us that working from anything oversize to a final smaller size is always a good idea. Reductions will always be easier than additions in pretty much any timber work, for obvious, reasons.