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Selling Hand Made Acuerate Ash Cue 3/4 57" 18.75oz 9.25mm
My cue is stiff but has feel in it. A friend of mine who i am practicing with got john parris exclusive and it cost him over 400. My acuerate cue is 10 times better than his john parris exclusive.Just to compare.
You will pot many more balls with this cue than with normal cue thats for sure. A touch of unwanted side will not effect your pot. Trust me after a few weeks you will improve your potting by 30-40% with this cue. I called it a dream cue!!!:snooker:
I too have a John Parris cue, that would cost £400 plus just for the cue and I'd probably have to wait 6 months ...however, I could supply the same specification cue, of equal quality for half that price or less and delivered in less than a month ...that's my point - trying to redress the balance with all the chatter on here about over-priced cues....
If it's a dream cue, then why are you trying to sell it???
just a second," trust me" you will pot more balls with this cue. i should trust someone who wants 1600 for a cue that had squirels sat on it not many months ago. as for stiff v whippy if a cue is overly stiff it throw wider because there is no give in the shaft ,the shaft needs to bend slightly to enable the tip to stay in contact with the ball as long as possible hence more side and more recovery, like wise too whippy and the cue will deflect too much and same result .
It's a "for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction" type thing. The more force required to move the cue tip left, as it strikes the white with left hand side, the more force applied back onto the white pushing it to the right.
The whippy-ness of the cue may play some small part, as it stands to reason that a cue which is easier to bend, will apply less additional force beyond end mass reaction back on the white, and vice-versa. But, when you're talking about a whippy cue, you're probably talking about a cue which through it's whole length feels whippy, and it's actually only the first few inches that are likely to have an effect on the white, as the rest is braced behind the bridge hand.
IIRC low squirt cues tend to have a hollow section near the tip, and/or use a carbon fibre ferule, or some other light material to reduce end mass.
"Do unto others 20% better than you would expect them to do unto you, to correct for subjective error"
- Linus Pauling
My cue is stiff but has feel in it. A friend of mine who i am practicing with got john parris exclusive and it cost him over 400. My acuerate cue is 10 times better than his john parris exclusive.Just to compare.
You will pot many more balls with this cue than with normal cue thats for sure. A touch of unwanted side will not effect your pot. Trust me after a few weeks you will improve your potting by 30-40% with this cue. I called it a dream cue!!!:snooker:
I just brought a JP exclusive and the cue is first class, all cues are different so I don't know what your trying to say, but I'm sure it fits in with the rest of the bull somewhere and how do you define your scale 10 times better
Conclusions:
1. More added mass creates more squirt.
2. The closer the added mass is to the tip, the more squirt you get.
3. When mass is added beyond 6-8 inches, it has no effect on squirt.
4. A soft tip seems to create slightly more squirt than a hard tip.
It also says.. "The results of the added-mass experiment explain why manufacturers have been able to create “low-squirt” cues by using a smaller diameter shaft, drilling out the end of the shaft, and/or using a lighter ferrule. All of these modifications reduce the end-mass of the cue"
And then goes on to reference the video I linked
"Do unto others 20% better than you would expect them to do unto you, to correct for subjective error"
- Linus Pauling
For a 9 ball cue the end mass is very important because the tip is so big.
I want to say first of all I am not endorsing the Acuerate. My personal opinion is that I do not really like it.
But in response to the comment about whippy vs delfection, the patent of the Acuerate cues is all about its taper (basically) which is a slim and more "whippy" taper.
The reason behind this is becasue with the front end being more flexible the cue will not push the cue ball off as much as a more stiff front end would with off center strike. A slimmer taper at the front also reduces some mass at the tip end, especially when they use a very small tip, which can also help to reduce cue ball deflection.
With a very stiff front end, once a player strikes the cue ball off center, the tip will push the cue ball off more because a stiffer front end would buckle/bend less upon impact than a more whippy front end--hence more deflection.
I have tried several Acuerate cues, they all had a much softer hit. There is also an ultra low deflection version which features a very small tip.
I am in no way endorsing the Acuerate cue. Just stating the principle behind the design as I understand it. I believe this is common knowledge among cue makers regarding cue ball deflection.
I personally am not a big fan of this cue as it is a bit too whippy for my own taste. Having said that, some players have great success with the Acuerate, such as Luca Bercel.
Last edited by poolqjunkie; 25 January 2011, 09:43 PM.
nrage good post, back in the eighties i had the good fortune to spend some time with several canadian players one in paticular was paul thornley, the knowledge he had was amazing, he thought nothing of changing shafts for different shots his point being no one shaft could perform every shot. i experimented with countless things, one being drilling out the last 6 inches or so, filliing with balsa to lighten, steel to weight, fiber ferrules,steel ferrules,you name it lighghtening the tip end by using lightwieght ferrules reduces deflection but introduces more misscues esp off the rails, in order to impart spin there must be a certain amount of coeffient of restitution, a subject the golfing industery takes very seriously, the shaft, and the tip must give way on hitting the ball, and then return before the ball has gone, this way the tip stays in contact longer and can do its miracles.as for shaft flex a cue flexs in two places, at tip end for say 8 inches it then stays still and then flexs again above the splices, try it under a flourecent light! one part of the cue never moves idealy this should be near the bridge. i am sorry if this is rambling, but my main point is this! i truly believe that what goes into making a great cue is so complex why would anyone pay 1600 pound for what is basically a PHOTO! ps i have made hundreds of centuries i have made hundreds of cues and i think if its not there at the begining ie the timber itself, forget it!
Sorry Mr Kezman but if you actually play the game then you will know that no matter what cue you play with(or are trying to sell) unwanted side WILL affect the potting of a ball....simple physics...Please stick to facts about the cues you are selling and not the "magical" properties of them. Believe me if this existed I would have been World Champion since I began to play i 1979!!
Sorry Mr Kezman but if you actually play the game then you will know that no matter what cue you play with(or are trying to sell) unwanted side WILL affect the potting of a ball....simple physics...Please stick to facts about the cues you are selling and not the "magical" properties of them. Believe me if this existed I would have been World Champion since I began to play i 1979!!
Dont give up man, keep trying maybe one day you will became world champion maybe not in snooker but in one ball potting.
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