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  • Cue oil

    Can anyone advise the best kind of oil for use with ash cues?
    I have some boiled linseed oil, is it okay for cues, or is there something better
    avalable??

  • #2
    linseed oil is ok to use on ash, give it a good clean and dry before applying to let soak in for a few hours then buff off with a clean cloth. Mike Wooldridge cue oil is also worth trying if you have a spare few quid.

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    • #3
      There's a whole thread on this here:
      http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...hlight=linseed
      Oh, and that's a bad miss.

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      • #4
        Many thanks for the quick replies

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        • #5
          i was told by trevor that my cue (TW) does not need to be oiled, even after months of play

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          • #6
            Originally Posted by davidwu View Post
            i was told by trevor that my cue (TW) does not need to be oiled, even after months of play
            I questioned Trevor about oiling and he told me that people tend to oil too often. He said maybe do it once a year IF you like.
            The bitter taste of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.

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            • #7
              What does Trevor recommend ? Damp rag occassionly ?
              Still trying to pot as many balls as i can !

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              • #8
                Originally Posted by Wayne G View Post
                I questioned Trevor about oiling and he told me that people tend to oil too often. He said maybe do it once a year IF you like.
                Agree : One of my cues never been oiled for the past 5 years and still playing nicely, just a little darker on the ash. People tend to oil their cues without necessity. My recent snakewood cue will be oiled sometimes in 2012, and only if it's exposed to cold weather for weeks. But we don't have cold weather here in Thailand
                It's in the Shaft

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                • #9
                  When I talked to Trev, he told me his cues never need oiling.

                  When I played many years ago, nobody used to oil cues in those days and mine certainly were never oiled or touched with sandpaper. The only time sandpaper was used, was on the tip.

                  The cues Trev has made for me are still as smoother as when I received them and they have not even had a cloth on them at all and will never see any oil or other substance.

                  These days, people seem to be obsessed with doing things to their cues.
                  :snooker:

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                  • #10
                    I've been told by Simon @ craftsman cues that you shouldn't use even
                    a damp rag, water and wood don't mix. To clean it he recommended use
                    the very very fine wire wool. Does anyone use this method ?

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                    • #11
                      All this oil business is nonsense really. You see whenever you work with wood and you put a finish on the cue, that finish is permanant, unless you sand it down. Basically the wood is sealed and therefore nothing can get past that unless you damage the finish. Wiping it down with a damp cloth is fine.

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                      • #12
                        So does anyone know the best variety of snake oil, I know it'll be expensive as snake oil always is.

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                        • #13
                          Originally Posted by johno View Post
                          I've been told by Simon @ craftsman cues that you shouldn't use even
                          a damp rag, water and wood don't mix. To clean it he recommended use
                          the very very fine wire wool. Does anyone use this method ?

                          I mean no disrespect to Simon at Craftsman, he's a top guy, but.......

                          Wire wool on a cue shaft (especially ash) WILL wear it more rapidly than using a cloth. The coarse nature of even the finest steel wool will cut the finish off the surface of the timber and will especially scrub out the softer part of the grain in ash, leaving it feeling rough and heavily textured.

                          Using extremely fine steel wool on ebony is less of a problem, as it's so dense and hard. However, even ebony can have some open texture to the grain, and steel wool will have the same effect on that also if used for prolonged periods.

                          A barely damp cloth, perhaps with a little detergent on it, followed by a clean dry cloth should be all that is required on a well finished cue. Oiling them over and over will do little to make the cue feel any better and is likely to make the timber darker (and patchy too on maple) and tackier if done too often.

                          Decent, seasoned timber will not "dry out" any more than it has already dried out and just doesn't need oiling on any regular basis. A little oil perhaps every few years is about all you'll EVER need....fact.
                          Last edited by trevs1; 10 February 2011, 10:42 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Originally Posted by neil taperell View Post
                            What does Trevor recommend ? Damp rag occassionly ?
                            he told me, there is no need for oil, if the cue becomes tacky just clean it with a damp cloth,and wipe it dry.

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                            • #15
                              What kind of detergent to do mean trevs1 ?

                              I take your point regarding the steel wool but why would Simon suggest
                              this method ( And I do mean the finest steel wool you can use on glass )

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