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Well, from the picture it looks like Jason has a tool post with a cutter that was used to cut out the tenon. I am just wondering as I have never seen a wood lathe that comes with a tool post like that. I dont think you can use a cutter like that without a post to mount it.
I think it is a good idea. Saves lots of money for one, as buying a metal lathe would cost more than a wood lathe...
Jim, are you cutting your tenon with a chiesel?
no airin i bought a old southbend lathe 1917 just learning what i can do on it,cut my first tenon other day had to reset lathetailstock as it wasnt cutting square sorted that and turned my first ferruls yesterday
The lathe I have has a copy attachment, basically the idea is you put the original between 2 centres directly underneath the bed, there is then a roller which follows the original, this is attached to a cutter which mimics the roller and cuts the blank to the same size of the original. It was designed to make stair case spindles where they all need to match eachother. Not used it yet and think it will take some setting up. The tool stand can also take different cutters and be used like that.
I didn't use that to do the ferrule, used a short one sided skew.
hi jason you know when you did the tenon how far from the tailstock did you have the steady ,if you can get prob within about 8-9 in it wont move that much but you will still have problem of the pointer from tail stock splitting shaft,if you have a old ferrul like the ones that have a threaded tip on use that on the tip end you might find its about 11mm and might just slot on ,i found out the other day and it works
Jim, When I tried it didnt look like splitting at all, just had to wind the tailstock in to not flex the shaft. This was for a 9mm ferrule as well. If it had been a problem then I was going to leave an extra 25mm on the cue and then cut the tenon but leave the last 10mm that is at the tail stock a larger diameter. Then take the cue off the lathe and cut this 10mm off leaving the tenon the right length for the ferrule.
Hi, Jason, as I previously stated ,great blog and I wish you every success in this venture.I am going up to see Mike in June ( fingers crossed) so hopefully I will get to give " Cue Guru 1 " a turn around the tables,looking forward to it.I previously asked if you had considered a 3/4 option,but got no reply, or a short front splice ( say 7") that could be jointed at Glovers with an invisible joint ( wood to wood and a great finish).Have you considered this at all.I too would like to "do a Jim" and ask if 147 could be reserved at all ( I can wait,lol.)Keep up the good work.Regards Mick.
Mick, sorry didnt get back to you, so busy.
Yes I will have a go at 3/4 split joints but not just yet. First priority is to get really good at doing a standard 1 piece cue, once i have that licked then I will look at multi splicing, and then 3/4 jointed stuff.
A 3/4 cue would be made differently to a 1 piece in that the main butt below the joint would be turned from 1 piece of wood so just producing a 1pce cue with a short front splice and converting it may not work too well with weights and balance.
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