You are aware that timber becomes " spalted" due to the presence of fungi,arent you.Nice grain patterns for turning and cabinet making,but possibly only good for front splices on cues only.A chap called Graham sold a cue on e-bay a while ago that had butt splices of spalted beech and was made at Craftsman.Apologies to all for dropping into " geek" mode for a while.I will go back to sleep now.
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Originally Posted by JasonOwen View PostYep, hadnt quite sussed the adding weight back then. Have now.
Its probably the hardest part to work out where and how to weight a cue.
the max weight i was able to add was 3 1/2 oz totalling 15.5oz a little frustrating but none the less it plays pretty well prob best for pool tho .....
you learn something new every time !!!!
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I have thought if you were making a cue you'd weight it after planing the first two splices (or even the last two)? Hole through the shaft - stick some weight material in and then glue splices? Then you can choose your balance point easier than drilling up through the bottom??---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Old cue collector --
Cue Sales: http://oldcues.co.uk/index.php?id=for_sale_specials
(yes I know they're not cheap, I didn't intend them to be!..)
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You can add weight after doing the 1st 2 splices, drill holes, add weights and then put on the last 2 splices. But its hard at this stage to know what the final cue will weigh and thus add the right amount of weight is hard for any accuracy.
I tend to do this with a few ounces and then also drill up into the butt to add weight to get close to the final weight, allowing for a butt joint and final sanding.
Adding weight is straight forward, its getting the balance thats hard.
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Without a lathe its neigh impossible to drill up into the butt. You think if you dont get it centrally drilled then you will end up with a biased weight, like an acuerate cue.
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