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I was given a free cue tonight, with a case, and it's really good, and I mean 'really' good.
It's an old BCE - Cliff Thorburn
Normally you'd look at the cheap 2 piece case, and just know, that inside, was a piece of firewood, but not on this occasion.
Inside, I found a cheap piece of firewood, that I fell in love with.
It was a pleasant surprise to find it was hand spliced, and has about 8 inlays on the front face.
The joint is a wooden joint too, which straight away tells me that it is going to feel good once I screw it together, and sure enough it does.
Measuring 57.5 inches, it's not ideal length 'for me' but is standard length for everyone else, so no probs there, and the tip looks about 9.5.
Wood wise, the arrows are evenly spaced, and the grain is rather pleasant. I'm not at all bothered that the arrows aren't in line with the splice.
Weight wise, I reckon it's about 18 - 19 0z. In the hand, held out in front of me, it feels a good weight, and I just know without even hotting a ball with it that it will make a good player.
I made my first century break 25 years ago with a very similar cue, only then, it was an Alex Higgins cue, but it too had a wooden joint.
I'm pretty confident that I could knock a century with this cue too, so never let anyone tell you that you need to spend hundreds of pounds to find a great cue.
This cost me £0.
Sure, it's varnished, and the guy before me sanded the varnish off on the shaft, but I could refinish this cue and make it look great again without much trouble I reckon. A bit of wax or oil and she'd look a million dollars again I'm sure.
I'm going to restore it, re-tip it, and remove the old varnish and oil or wax it.
Which oil or wax do you think will give it the best finish?
Eventually it will go to one of the young kids in the club who has shown an interest in the game.
Does anyone know when the cue was made, and how much it cost?
It's an old BCE - Cliff Thorburn
Normally you'd look at the cheap 2 piece case, and just know, that inside, was a piece of firewood, but not on this occasion.
Inside, I found a cheap piece of firewood, that I fell in love with.
It was a pleasant surprise to find it was hand spliced, and has about 8 inlays on the front face.
The joint is a wooden joint too, which straight away tells me that it is going to feel good once I screw it together, and sure enough it does.
Measuring 57.5 inches, it's not ideal length 'for me' but is standard length for everyone else, so no probs there, and the tip looks about 9.5.
Wood wise, the arrows are evenly spaced, and the grain is rather pleasant. I'm not at all bothered that the arrows aren't in line with the splice.
Weight wise, I reckon it's about 18 - 19 0z. In the hand, held out in front of me, it feels a good weight, and I just know without even hotting a ball with it that it will make a good player.
I made my first century break 25 years ago with a very similar cue, only then, it was an Alex Higgins cue, but it too had a wooden joint.
I'm pretty confident that I could knock a century with this cue too, so never let anyone tell you that you need to spend hundreds of pounds to find a great cue.
This cost me £0.
Sure, it's varnished, and the guy before me sanded the varnish off on the shaft, but I could refinish this cue and make it look great again without much trouble I reckon. A bit of wax or oil and she'd look a million dollars again I'm sure.
I'm going to restore it, re-tip it, and remove the old varnish and oil or wax it.
Which oil or wax do you think will give it the best finish?
Eventually it will go to one of the young kids in the club who has shown an interest in the game.
Does anyone know when the cue was made, and how much it cost?
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