Cue Finishing Expert Required!!

[CueAce]

Hi All,

Like most of you I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to my cue and I was wondering if any of you know how to do a good job of re-finishing? I have re oiled-waxed my cue in the past so I guess I'm really looking for tips on the BEST way to properly smooth the shaft/butt down before using any other finishing products.

I have heard you shouldn't ever sand the surface of your cue so should you just give the cue a good once-over with some 0000 grade wire wool? Could this achieve the best result or is there an even more effective way?

Some good advice would be much appreciated

Thanks

[The Doctor]

I would not touch the shaft with steel wool regardless of grade.
A nice smooth finish can be achieved by using very fine wet and dry paper. It can be used along with a little wood oil when sanding to give a smooth finish then polish with a piece of kitchen paper to remove any excess oil.

[CueAce]

Thanks, What grade/grades of paper do you normally use? Can I expect a big oily, dusty mess while I am doing this?

The grain on the cue has also faded slightly over time and the grain is slightly lower in the wood now. Will this also sort that out?

Cheers again

[The Doctor]

In the case of the grain I would consider getting some filler on it first then sanding back before doing the final sanding process.
Use a slightly rougher grade like 800 at first then proceed to a 1200.

[CueAce]

Is there any particular type of grain filler that you would recommend? How do you use it? Thanks

[The Doctor]

Well thats a bit tricky. I have asked Manu cue makers and they are all wary about giving their method away.
I make up my own with a dark wood filler and black woodstain but it must be water based as oli based will darken the whole cue and will be difficult to remove when dry.
It does look a bit of a mess when doing the filling but when you sand it back it brings the grain up lovely.

[CueAce]

Cheers Doc clearly know your stuff! If it's not too much bother please could you send me a link each for the woodfiller and black woodstain that you use and let me know the proportions. I'll carefully give it a go and let you know how I get on.

[The Doctor]

I don't have a link but I do know there is a well know quick drying woodstain available that does exactly what it says on the tin lol. You can get it in ebony or a dark wood colour of your choice. Use this then sand back. Remember it must be the quick drying one as this is water based.*

[CueAce]

Ronseal? Also will any woodfiller do or is there any specific type that works best? Sorry to pester just don't want to take any risks with it!

[The Doctor]

Just try the woodstain and if it's still not filling it then just mix with a little brown woodfiller to thicken up. Remember water based.

[jim evans]

grain filler

if you go on ebay type in grain filler you get what you see buy some and also buy some wood sanding sealer mix them to gether make a paste rub in to shaft let dry then sand off using 800 grit sandpaper then use 1200 grit then move up to 2000 grit then coat with linseed oil leave overnite them buff cue up

[CueAce]

Thanks Jim, I have bought some rustins natural wood grain filler and some quick drying water based woodstain, so I'll get some sealer as well and mix the three. Is there any particular type of sealer you would recommend?

[CueAce]

Also do you not use the sealer after sanding to protect the wood? Do you use any kind of polish after the linseed oil?

[andy carson]

some people like to wax thier cue after oiling it but it really does not need it, just oiling it and buffing it up will be absolutely fine on the cue....

taken from a post i made a few weeks ago


i use boiled linseed on it, give the cue a good rub down first with a barely damp microfibre cloth, then a fully dry one, then using a paper towel pour a small bit on and then rub into the shaft evenly repeating til covered the whole shaft, then a clean one to wipe off any excess, leave it out of the case for 24 hours and repeat without using the barely wet cloth the second time. after the second treating with oil and leaving it to air dry again use a paper towel and gently but not too gently rub up and down the shaft then go over it and buff it up with the microfibre cloth again.

i dont religously do it every 6 months or whatever, only when the cue has started to feel sticky more often than not on shots after wiping down the shaft while playing. sometimes do it once a year, sometimes twice.


have used both boiled and raw before for it and the only real difference i noticed was the boiled seemed to give it a slightly more aged look than raw.

Original Source: http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...#ixzz1H5RlavWd
TSF - TheSnookerForum.com

[jim evans]

sealer

rustins do a sanding sealer when you combine with grain filler its a thinnish paste you want so it does both jobs at once,thats what i found but its all trial and error ime not a time served cue maker lol