Phenolic Tips

[hotpot]

Caz i believe that youre similar to me in so far as when you,re not hitting the ball so well youre cue does not feel the same as it does when you do .

I,ve come to the conclusion that the faults lie with me and not the cue , hence the reason for selling the cues i swap to play with and stick to one .

The cue i,m sticking with is a mast with ideal specs and a good solid responsive hit .

When youre playing well you can play with a number of cue that suit you and feel comfortable , like you have with some of your cues .

Find a cue , stick with it and concentrate on your game , you will have off days , it,s how you deal with them that matters .

Imo the ferrule is not going to make any difference , you,re looking for minor improvements like us all , but look at your game and not the cue .

Just my opinion .

Any cues for sale Lol .

[hotpot]

Was talking to Darren morgan the other week and he said he played Mike Hallet and Mike used Four cues . One for long potting , one amongst the balls , one for safety and one for the rest .

Pheraps thats something you should look at caz

[cazmac1]

I hear you Hot pot I've ordered the ferrules now and will use them at some point I just don't know when. After just watching Mike Hallet play SH on you tube I don't think I will follow his lead, lol.
The only thing I would say about the brass ferrules is because it's the norm now does not mean it's correct I can imagine if we were using a different type of ferrule and someone suggested putting a lump of metal on the end of the cue there would be outrage.
I find the American pool players fascinating, they seems to have a deeper understanding of the physics of the cue sports and seem to be more open minded than snooker players and more willing to experiment. The throw of a cue is a fact and it is proven that end mass causes more throw; therefore any thing that reduces throw has to be a good thing. This game is about factions and any thing that increases your accuracy has to be a good thing. It is true that on a good they you can play with almost any cue, it’s the bad days that I’m trying to improve on.

[cazmac1]

If you want something very light there are some cheap plastic ferrule (like that you can find on house cues) that is lighter than phenolic. Phenolic and brass are very different, one being brittle and hard, while the other is ductile and soft. The hit and "feel" between the two is different.
If you have to reduce the tenon diameter to install the phenolic ferrule then when you try to put a brass back on in the future, you need to thicken the tenon again. If you do not reduce the tenon, the wall on the phenolic ferrules might be too thin, as they do tend to crack when they are thin.
From my experience, Trevor's cues do not throw the ball much at all. If you want to reduce the weight of the brass ferrule you can also just use a shorter ferrule or one with a thinner wall thickness.
Other than ferrule weight, the taper and weight of the shaft is important in determining how much the cue ball will throw.
Going back to the original poster's question, yes, it will help you to break harder...but it is harder to control. Moreover, phenolic tips do not hold chalk as well as leather, and they crack easier.

have to say sorry to the original poster for hi jacking your thread, Pool junkie in your opinion what would be the best ferrule to use on a snooker cue with regards to reducing throw.

[Inoffthered]

The cue i,m sticking with is a mast with ideal specs and a good solid responsive hit .

What specs HotPot?

[Inoffthered]

Was talking to Darren morgan the other week and he said he played Mike Hallet and Mike used Four cues . One for long potting , one amongst the balls , one for safety and one for the rest .

Pheraps thats something you should look at caz

Word? And to think he beat Knowles 4-0 in the first Q School event. Haha

[poolqjunkie]

If you just want to reduce throw, and do not care anything about the hit or feel or whatsoever, you should bore a cavity about 6 " into the shaft (bore under the ferrule), install a very light and soft plastic ferrules, and you can also thin the front 6-8" of your taper down so it will become more flexible.
There is a ferrule material called Titan or something like that, it is the one that will melt if you apply too much heat to it. That is a very soft and light material and should be much better than phenolic (which is too hard) in terms of reducing cue ball squirt. It is also the material Predator cues are using, and their cues are advertised to have very little deflection. But Titan is not very strong and will crack. It is a trade off.
Reducing cue ball squirt is not just about weight of the cue at the front, you need flexibility at the front end as well, which is why a softer ferrule is preferred over a hard one, given the same weight.
The idea is for the cue tip to get out of the way of the cue ball when applying side, hence reducing cue ball squirt.
In US pool, the balls are heavy and big and lots of sides are used, snooker is a different game.
If you do the above to your Trevor White, not only deflection but also the value of you cue would be greatly reduced..LOL
In my opinion, brass is fine and is a great choice for a snooker tip ferrule.

[cazmac1]

I wasn't aware that these ferrules were brittle which is odd when you consider that they are used for pool where the balls are heaver and these ferrules and tips are used for the break which is without doubt the most forceful shot in any cue sport. If I do used the ferrule I will have it thinned as I would want more wood that ferrule to try and keep the hit as natural as possible. I not to bother if it doesn’t work out as I could always put a brass ferrule back on as the cue is long enough to do this without taking any value away from the cue.

[limecc]

Pool Ferrules are a bigger diameter hence the load is spread over a larger area of timber. No way would a nylon ferrule last on the smallest tipped snooker cues. (well maybe, until trying extreme power shots) No protection at all for the wood.

[cazmac1]

Sorry limecc, I don't agree and can't possibly see how you can make such a statement without first hand experience, if you have tried it on your cue or have first hand knowledge of someone who has I apologised in advance. If any one has tried this and experience these problems please provide feed back.
PS please sort out your flag.

[limecc]

You're right, I haven't tried it, but look at the slow-mo's of a tip striking a ball. Extreme forces are at work! No wonder ferrules can split. (due to constant deflection) Of course there's no-one to say you need a ferrule at all, but how long would the cue last before the wood started splitting? If it were a good idea, TW and JP cues would come with one, maybe some pros would make the switch. (my apologies if some have;-)

Like your vids by the way.

[cazmac1]

You're right, I haven't tried it, but look at the slow-mo's of a tip striking a ball. Extreme forces are at work! No wonder ferrules can split. (due to constant deflection) Of course there's no-one to say you need a ferrule at all, but how long would the cue last before the wood started splitting? If it were a good idea, TW and JP cues would come with one, maybe some pros would make the switch. (my apologies if some have;-)

Like your vids by the way.

Have to put you right there, John Parris has used these types of ferrules and he has put them on Steve Davis cue although Steve is not using one at this time. There have been many successful snooker players who have used materials other than brass to name one, Ex WC Cliff Thorburn