Ugly Shaft

[cazmac1]

Hi all, I have found an ash cue that I really like but I don't like the grain on the shaft so want to do is to make the grain less visible. I believe that the black grain in ash cues it not naturally visible and that the black is added by cue makers with grain fillers. Would it be possible to use grain filler that matches the natural colour of the wood so as to make the grain barely visible and has anyone tried this?

[cally]

Easily done fella, just don't use a dark grain filler mix.

Heres a post from earlier, one of andy travis cues with a real light grain...

Here.... > http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...vis-cue-review

[cazmac1]

That's what I'm after.

[gazza147]

Dave at Craftsman Cues doen't use Black Grain Filler either he uses Brown, Too be Honest I like the Darker Grain but thats my Personal Opinion everybody is Different.


Gaz.

[old school]

Caz,what puts you off about the grain.You shouldnt be looking at the grain when playing,only the tip on the point of contact.Or are you saying that the grain is actually distracting you when down on the shot or feathering,in which case dont look.Someone such as Coutts,Craftsman or even Parris or H&O ( as you are in London) should be able to refinish the cue without grain fillers,although the raised grain ( if there is any) will be more noticeable on your bridge hand.There has been past issues raised on the use of grain fillers and the difference in density between timber and growth rings,grain fillers are sometimes used to compensate between the two and this is what gives the finished surface ( or so I am led to believe).Perhaps some of the cue builders on this forum could give you some advice and input.I would imagine that tightness of grain would also impact on the use of fillers.

[cazmac1]

Dave at Craftsman Cues doen't use Black Grain Filler either he uses Brown, Too be Honest I like the Darker Grain but thats my Personal Opinion everybody is Different.


Gaz.

Hi Gazza, I to like the black grain fillers, I think it makes the ash look more expensive , if you know what I mean.

[jaffa.johnson]

Use maple lol

[The Doctor]

Yes not that difficult to do, either apply a few coats of sanding sealer between sanding or get a light colour wood stain such as pine and apply to the cue before sanding back. if not sure i would see a cue doctor though.

[cazmac1]

Caz,what puts you off about the grain.You shouldnt be looking at the grain when playing,only the tip on the point of contact.Or are you saying that the grain is actually distracting you when down on the shot or feathering,in which case dont look.Someone such as Coutts,Craftsman or even Parris or H&O ( as you are in London) should be able to refinish the cue without grain fillers,although the raised grain ( if there is any) will be more noticeable on your bridge hand.There has been past issues raised on the use of grain fillers and the difference in density between timber and growth rings,grain fillers are sometimes used to compensate between the two and this is what gives the finished surface ( or so I am led to believe).Perhaps some of the cue builders on this forum could give you some advice and input.I would imagine that tightness of grain would also impact on the use of fillers.

Hi old, school if I had the cue done it would have to have some kind of grain filler as for looking at the cue I do look at the cue for sighting, this cue has a kind of boat at the front, so when cuing forward the grain expands then comes in joining what would have been the tip of the next chevron before going out again, its funny as the shaft at one point in the making process must have looked superb. I think that even ppl who say they don’t using the cue for sighting may do subconsciously as they must catch some of the cue in their peripheral vision.

[cazmac1]

Use maple lol

Done that didn't like it. ASH ASH ASH

[cazmac1]

Yes not that difficult to do, either apply a few coats of sanding sealer between sanding or get a light colour wood stain such as pine and apply to the cue before sanding back. if not sure i would see a cue doctor though.

I know I won't do it but I've actually thought of painting the top part of the cue. Just like to add one more thing with the sighting, Joe Davis says that that the further back your line of aim is the better, I think he compares the cue to like a rifle, I’m a firm believer that before your eyes flick to the white an OJB you need to see where the cue is pointing.