in my humble opinion i think it does not matter at all how many chevrons you get on the shaft... as long as particular cue feels right on whole range of shots its all that matters. obviously uniform appearance of arrows is a bonus.
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This is mine cue with 6 chevrons. Marko 1.jpgYou cannot improve your game if you don't have a cue and snooker table
BTW vucko means wolfie
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If you wanna Tell the Cue Maker how many Chevrons/Arrows you would like on your Shaft then that Comes in the Selected Shafts which 9 out of 10 Cue Makers Charge quite abit more for Due to there Only being Approx 7-10 Evenly Spaced Nice Chevrons/Arrows they get out of say 100 Shafts thats why Cue Makers have to Charge Extra for these Great Shafts.
I dont agree with Less Arrows/Chevrons make Stiffer Shafts as I have been into Cues for Over 30yrs and this is definatley not the case as I Personally like the Arrows/Chevrons inline with the Badge and I Like between 7-10 Evenly Spaced and Mine have never Seemed any Different in Stiffness to the 3-5-7 Arrows/Chevrons on Other Shafts I have Had and Sold.
I hope this Helps.
Gaz.
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Originally Posted by mick 142 View Postthats what j p said Tony ions said and Trever white when i asked the question the grain is the soft part of the cue so the more white wood the stiffer the shaft yes there might be the exception but 9 out of 10 are stiffer .
I'm not sure if I said that exactly, but I may have said that slightly wider grained pieces of ash tend to be heavier, and "often" (but not always) fairly or very stiff.
In cue shaft terms, wider grained timber means anything with a growth ring spacing of perhaps less than 9 / 10 per inch of thickness of timber. Usually, the best shafts come with a growth ring spacing of around 6 to 13 growth rings (grain lines). Once you get over maybe 13 to 14 per inch of thickness, the timber does tend to be a little lighter and softer, and as such, is perhaps not the best for cue shafts. However, you will always get the odd pieces which contradict that rule, so it's just a general guide and is not to be followed like some kind of religion.
The amount of "arrows" or "chevrons" that may be present in an ash shaft will depend on a number of factors, such as........
the grain spacing, the grain direction, and how a shaft is cut from the blank (or square). It isn't always possible to get this "arrow" marking to show as people would like it to, and this alone does not mean that a shaft is not good. The most significant aspect of what makes a shaft perform well in a cue is weight and stiffness. EVERYTHING else is purely aesthetic, nothing more and nothing less.
What everyone "appears" to want is a shaft which is heavy enough, stiff enough and also looks very clean and neat, with no obvious anomalies such as knotts, discolouration, grain run off, worm marks, etc etc. Almost all pieces of timber will have something which makes them imperfect, so those pieces which are "virtually" perfect in appearance and all other physical characteristics will be in the minority. Because of this, they are almost always used at some kind of price premuim. These are the shafts which will be used in Ultimates, H&O black plates and so on. They are NO BETTER in playing terms than other "less pretty" shafts....THIS IS A FACT.
But they are scarce, and they do look very nice, and, THIS is why they cost more in a cue.
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Originally Posted by subzeer0 View Postand theres me thinking it was the Indian not the arrow that was important
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I have met some people who tend to think the lesser the number of chevrons the better is the shaft. I have met people who think shafts with 1 or 2 chevrons are the most precious, and anything more than 6 chevrons are just 'too much" for the shaft to play well.
I personally do not believe the number of chevrons should be the first thing to look at when it comes to playability. Spring, stiffness, and weight of the shaft are all more important than how many chevrons are there.Last edited by poolqjunkie; 3 June 2011, 04:00 PM.
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