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  • Filling the grain

    Hi Gang,
    So Iv used an (oil based grain filler) to fill and seal the Ash but still finding it difficult to get that glass like luster with no indents on the points. Done three coats with sanding in between plus burnishing with raw linseed oil.. Arr Am I missing a process?

  • #2
    It looks like it is top secret round here which is not that suprising. It would make it so much easier to know how to properly seal the grains so it is smootch. No chin problems etc,

    Cuemakers, there is so much more to your art than that. Share

    Anyone knows ?

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    • #3
      yea send it to a cue doctor...Coutts cues did one for me on a parris i had,,,(badly finished imho) came back silky smooth and useable...around £35 and no heartache of getting it right

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      • #4
        Yeah I guess its more about sealing the chevrons so they are level with the rest of the shaft. Getting it smooth is a problem or the issue

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        • #5
          when you have filled the grain and let it dry, sand it back with about 800grit wet n dry to remove excess filler and level the grain. Then sand gently going with the grain with around 1200 grit and it should feel smooth? If its not smooth at this point then there is a problem with the grain filler. If you fill over varnish/wax/oil it wont take in which case sand with around 400-600grit first to take back to the bare wood.

          Once you have it smooth at this point give it about 4 coats of linseed oil leaving to dry between coats, or overnight. The cue may still feel smooth or could feel slightly rough due to oil raising the grain or the wood. If this is the case sand it with 1500+grit to make it smooth again and repeat the oil process. When it gets to the point where the cue is still wet after leaving it overnight and the oil isnt soaking in it has taken all it needs so wipe off excess and buff up with a clean cloth. Leave to cure for a few days before play. If the cue is still not smooth gently sand again with the finer paper and repeat the oil buffing between coats until it is super smooth.

          Im no pro but this works for me:-)

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          • #6
            Thanks for that stejohn but the Cue is as smooth as you like I am using an oil base filler and Iv done three coats with 400g sanding in between but I'm still slightly feeling dips in the arrows, this makes me think that there is another process in the mix to get the Ash and Grains level, what is is? Silicon, fine laquer, car body filler?

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            • #7
              i have many cues and a couple of cues from top cue makers and you can still feel little dips on the ash grain, aslong as the cues feels smooth then its natural to feel the grain to some extent. As long as the filler fills the grain and it feels smooth then i think that is all you need to worry about, building up the oil finish over time will also improve the feel of the cue, make sure to buff well between coats though.

              Edit: Im sure there may be other tricks the finest cue makers use but i cant help with those im afraid!
              Last edited by stejohn; 6 June 2011, 10:04 PM.

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              • #8
                Thanks Again stejohn but its the bits you can't help me with that I'm after) I will experiment maybe with fine wood dust?!

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                • #9
                  Are you saying you want your ash to feel as smooth as maple?
                  www.AuroraCues.com

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                  • #10
                    Originally Posted by poolqjunkie View Post
                    Are you saying you want your ash to feel as smooth as maple?
                    If you mean getting the chevrons level so as to have no ripples? Yes

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                    • #11
                      If your shaft is already very smooth may I ask why you want it to be like a maple shaft?
                      www.AuroraCues.com

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                      • #12
                        Originally Posted by poolqjunkie View Post
                        If your shaft is already very smooth may I ask why you want it to be like a maple shaft?

                        This game is all about touch and as a snooker player I like my cues always to be silky-smooth with no scratches or dents, if I do get a dent its ironed out that evening after play.
                        Anyway sticking to the thread, as you well know when you look down the barrel of most of the top cue makers cues, ash cues, they are all not only smooth but there are no undulations on the chevrons, even if the quality of the ash is not so great they all are level and you could say close to the touch of a maple..
                        So., I am quite close to achieving levelness with some experimentation but its costly and time consuming.
                        It would be great if someone would kindly share some knowledge
                        Last edited by j6uk; 8 June 2011, 07:25 AM.

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                        • #13
                          ive always used black graphite powder seems to work well for me !!!
                          http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/a...new%20project/

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                          • #14
                            Originally Posted by j6uk View Post
                            If you mean getting the chevrons level so as to have no ripples? Yes
                            when your checking it are u running it through your hand or twisting/spinning it ??
                            http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/a...new%20project/

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                            • #15
                              Originally Posted by trigger666 View Post
                              when your checking it are u running it through your hand or twisting/spinning it ??
                              Black graphite powder yeah? What do you mix it with and that'll level the cue or just blacken the grain?
                              Just the tips of my fingers trig up an down the arrows and feeling the ripples.

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